My NX6010

[MinnesotaEric]

Between dying relatives and my 90-year-old mother having been hospitalized, I've been hard pressed to get all my Fall activities knocked out before performing the 400 hour service and rigging the tractor for winter. I thought I had 15 gallons of MobilFluid on hand, but it turns out that I only had 10 gallons. MobileFluid specs out as 10W20 Premium Hydro-Trans fluid from Napa. Not really any cheaper, but way, way easier to get.

Two gallon pails.
Five gallon buckets.

Snow is coming and I just got my mother out of the hospital, so I'm burning the midnight oil.

Service wise hardly any metal was found on the magnetic engine and transmission drain plugs, or the hydraulic magnet that fits inside of the hydraulic oil filter. My oil appeared clean and did not smell burnt. Even so my 400 hour service is complicated by the fact that I'm also replacing the suction lines and bracket that got messed up when I rolled a stump which lead to my using a trailer as an impromptu alignment rack.

For those who are not paying strict attention due to less than ideal working conditions, the filter housing flow arrows point outward. With exception of the parts diagram, nothing in the service manual says which way the filter housing is to be mounted, and yes, it can be installed backwards. In the dark I wasn't paying attention which way it went when I removed the filter assembly because I was trying to get a pan under what was left of the suction line that was dropping a half gallon of oil onto the ground at the time. Thankfully, I was able to confirm the parts diagram was correct from old close-up photos from when I first fabbed the skid plates in 2014.

As it turned out, the new suction lines must be "fitted," and I spent as much time bending the new parts mounting brackets so they'd align up as it would have taken me to bent and align the mounting brackets on the originals. I used hydro oil to lube up the O-rings that seal the suction lines as assembly lube, but blocks of wood and rubber mallets were the go-to tools for assembling the new parts. Eventually, I got everything back together, shiny and new. While I primed both the hydro and HST filters, it got too cold to continue messing around with oily hands, and so I will fill the tractor up with hydro oil in the daylight so I can check for leaks before reinstalling my skid plates.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

We're 48 hours away from our first snowfall here in northern Minnesota and so the time had come to mount the snow blower on the tractor, grease everything up, and check to make certain the snow blower is ready to go for the 2016-2017 winter.

After everything went smoothly mounting the blower, I cursed myself by tempting winter right before I parked my tractor.

 

[DieselBound]

I love seeing pictures of snow. I know that being in it is a whole nother matter! Don't think many would trade their snow for my rain, though: 1.81" just the other day; 11" in October. I'm thinking about coming up with an FEL attachment like a big sponge mop :laughing:

Peace and serenity for you and those around you. A lot of life happening there.

 

[DieselBound]

Random NX owner factoid. I've discovered that if my NX6010 sits around long enough on attempted start-up, the hour meter will display error code ERR-008, and the engine will not start. The only mention in all of Kioti's literature is in the owner's manual (cf. p. 4-32 in your owner's manual): no signal from water sensor which is completely useless because the service manual says nothing, not a thing about the ERR codes that can be displayed in the hour meter.

Experience informs me that it isn't water in the fuel, it is a lack of prime in the fuel system that the water in fuel sensor is picking up. On the right side of the engine, on the fuel filter housing itself is the priming pump. Pump the primer and prime the fuel system and the tractor will now start.

Not a thing about this in the service manual.

Your welcome.

I think I'm experiencing this very thing. My tractor is currently not firing at all and is stuck up the road from my place! Other than this bit here from Eric there's nothing; and, the owner's manual is about worthless (dealer is trying to help, but...) Started a thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/373831-nx5510-fuel-issues.html

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I think I'm experiencing this very thing. My tractor is currently not firing at all and is stuck up the road from my place! Other than this bit here from Eric there's nothing; and, the owner's manual is about worthless (dealer is trying to help, but...) Started a thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/373831-nx5510-fuel-issues.html

Unplug the water sensor at the bottom of the fuel filter and spin it out enough to drain any water out of the fuel filter. Screw the water sensor back in and plug the sensor back into the harness. Then open up the thumb screw on the fuel filter housing and pump the hand primer until you get fuel coming out (your bleeding out the air like bleeding brakes). Tighten the thumb screw and pump the hand primer until firm. Jump in and fire up your tractor.

 

[DieselBound]

Eric, many thanks for your responses. I got things working again: see my thread. I'm not sure how one does the draining. I tried turning the black, rubber thing (with the wire for the sensor going into it) but it really didn't want to twist much, and I was afraid of twisting up the wiring (couldn't get the connector apart- not sure how it separates). I know that I'll want to drain the filter as soon as possible.

In the future I think that I'll look to recirculate the fuel in my storage tank a little bit before pumping directly in the tractor, to deal with any water which may have condensed in the hose (post water and debris filters).

Oh! And a bit of info that's good to know (posted in my thread, but will post here for more exposure) is that if the primer isn't sticking up above the filter (it's pulled down) then that means you've got a blockage going back toward the tank.

 

[holeycow]

let your fuel sit still in your storage tank. Make sure your tank is oriented so that a low spot exists for gathering water and contaminants (ie, the spout is not the low spot, somewhere else is). Let your fuel settle in the storage tank for several hours (or overnight) after fill-up to allow contaminants/water to settle out (in that low area). Use a winter treatment/dewaterer type of conditioner.

I had a brief look at your other thread; it sounded suspiciously like fuel gelling/waxing to me. If you've ever had really gelled fuel you know that it can be a major pita, and needs to be avoided at all costs. Yours was a minor case. You got lucky.

As much as I hate to spend money on conditioners for fuel, it seems to be the only way to safeguard against our fuel mixture issues these days. Sadly enough, our poor fuel quality is a source of stress and many mechanical issues these days, IMO.

The amount of water that can be created in a fuel tank due to condensation is shocking.

When I was a child, we always had a natural gas stove, furnace, and hot water heater. The flame in the burners always burned pure blue. Natural gas these days always has a lick of orange going on. I am not sure exactly what the reason is, but I believe the orange licks are due to poorer quality gas. I have a kerosene fridge stored away which we used many years ago. Even 25 years ago it was hard to find kerosene of the quality necessary to eliminate a poor burn. With a little trial and error, we were able to find a good brand of kerosene to effectively operate that fridge.

I've seen entire heavy equipment crews get shut down for days due to a bad batch of fuel delivered. We have learned to not fill up anything right behind the bulk fuel delivery. We let it settle overnight if possible.

Anyway, good luck! Always.

 

[DieselBound]

Eric, I'm now in the process of buying a quick hitch. I found that a CAT 1 won't work for me (won't work with my bush hog), so a CAT 2 looks like what I'll get. Didn't you have fender damage due to your CAT 2 quick hitch crunching up against it? I measured the distance between fenders at 33". A CAT 2 quick hitch I'm looking at is spec'd 38" wide (might be a little less at the "shoulders," not sure, but definitely isn't going to be less than 33").

Perhaps one could cut the fenders w/o weakening things there. Or maybe remove the trailing sections as they appear to be removable (haven't looked to see if running without them would cause issues).

 

[94BULLITT]

Eric, I'm now in the process of buying a quick hitch. I found that a CAT 1 won't work for me (won't work with my bush hog), so a CAT 2 looks like what I'll get. Didn't you have fender damage due to your CAT 2 quick hitch crunching up against it? I measured the distance between fenders at 33". A CAT 2 quick hitch I'm looking at is spec'd 38" wide (might be a little less at the "shoulders," not sure, but definitely isn't going to be less than 33").

Perhaps one could cut the fenders w/o weakening things there. Or maybe remove the trailing sections as they appear to be removable (haven't looked to see if running without them would cause issues).

Get a Cat 1 hitch and make the rotary cutter cat 1 qh compatible.

 

[DieselBound]

Get a Cat 1 hitch and make the rotary cutter cat 1 qh compatible.

If you've got a solution I'm all ears!

I looked to see if I could swap the pins to the inside but that measures right around 26". Inside measurement on CAT 1 quick hitches is roughly 27". Won't fit inside, and won't fit outside the towers (comes to just over 29"). Only option would be to alter the towers, which would require a fair amount of welding (I don't have a welder).