NX Options (or lack thereof)

[MinnesotaEric]

We did call your dealer since our tech and your tech know each other from trainings. After they got off the phone we opened one of the remote kits. Inside are part numbers including the two for the three remote option. One with detent and one with out. Neither one of them knew of this until we found these numbers. Now they just order the proper part number for the three.

I told then that it is one number one kit and two number two kits but my dealer ordered in one of each, looked at it, then ordered another number two kit. Then there was the ordering of longer bolts from Fastenall. Although I did not pester the dealer, the whole time I was wondering why it was taking so long.

 

[Threepoint]

We did call your dealer since our tech and your tech know each other from trainings. After they got off the phone we opened one of the remote kits. Inside are part numbers including the two for the three remote option. One with detent and one with out. Neither one of them knew of this until we found these numbers. Now they just order the proper part number for the three.

Guys, do you know if the Daedong third rear remote can be added with the two already in place, without a lot of hassle? Don't have a use right now for a third, but I'm curious. The NX-series tractors have three slots for the rear remote control levers, with only two occupied in my case. Just seems like something's missing.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Guys, do you know if the Daedong third rear remote can be added with the two already in place, without a lot of hassle? Don't have a use right now for a third, but I'm curious. The NX-series tractors have three slots for the rear remote control levers, with only two occupied in my case. Just seems like something's missing.

It is a bit of a project. My dealer installed mine, and so I don't know how long of bolts to order (pull one bolt out, measure the length, then measure the bottom-most valve block and add that to the bolt length and order two 8.8 or better shouldered bolts), but I've had everything apart except the valve body themselves. Nevertheless, there should be an index pin and o-rings to seal each valve block. Remember James tip on popping the handles off of the draft control and three point off.

1) order in a another remote valve kit with or without a detent.

2) order longer bolts from Fastenall.

3) remove the seat.

4) remove right side bulk head. To do so, first remove the B and C column covers. Leave the wires plugged in or carefully index the electrical plugs and be aware they are brittle in warm weather. The panel of switches on the bulkhead pops out from the rear first, then the sides as i recall. I use very hard dash plastic dash tools to pry that don't leave marks but screw drivers do work too.

5) pop out knockout, run cable through install rubber grommet in new hole.

6) connect cable to lever.

7) Reinstall right side bulkhead. Leave valve handle cover off for now.

8) Install QD into new valve body and detent if that is what you ordered.

9) Remove two bolts holding down existing valves. Keep valve together best as you can.

10) Install yet another o-ring to seal all three valve together.

11) Carefully install two new long bolts making certain sealing o-rings are in place between everything.

12) hook up new cable to valve on back.

13) Adjust cable in cab.

14) pop the cover on and pop on the three handle knobs with the wee, little allen head screws.

15) reinstall seat.

One man seat removal tip: put a thick towel on lefthand bulkhead. Lift the seat up and rest it on the bulkhead. Get out while balancing seat. Then lift it out.
Two man seat removal is either out the rear window or out the lefthand door.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I'm running over to my dealer tomorrow for a can of gray paint and am planning on ordering two more remotes.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I'm running over to my dealer tomorrow for a can of gray paint and am planning on ordering two more remotes.

Remember to run the new cables over the wiring. Your tractor will not have as many wires in it as mine. you have two places to adjust the cable. One in the cab and one next to the valve bodies outside in the back. Run cables in parallel like in the photo.

 

[Threepoint]

It is a bit of a project. My dealer installed mine, and so I don't know how long of bolts to order (pull one bolt out, measure the length, then measure the bottom-most valve block and add that to the bolt length and order two 8.8 or better shouldered bolts), but I've had everything apart except the valve body themselves. Nevertheless, there should be an index pin and o-rings to seal each valve block. Remember James tip on popping the handles off of the draft control and three point off.

1) order in a another remote valve kit with or without a detent.

2) order longer bolts from Fastenall.

3) remove the seat.

4) remove right side bulk head. To do so, first remove the B and C column covers. Leave the wires plugged in or carefully index the electrical plugs and be aware they are brittle in warm weather. The panel of switches on the bulkhead pops out from the rear first, then the sides as i recall. I use very hard dash plastic dash tools to pry that don't leave marks but screw drivers do work too.

5) pop out knockout, run cable through install rubber grommet in new hole.

6) connect cable to lever.

7) Reinstall right side bulkhead. Leave valve handle cover off for now.

8) Install QD into new valve body and detent if that is what you ordered.

9) Remove two bolts holding down existing valves. Keep valve together best as you can.

10) Install yet another o-ring to seal all three valve together.

11) Carefully install two new long bolts making certain sealing o-rings are in place between everything.

12) hook up new cable to valve on back.

13) Adjust cable in cab.

14) pop the cover on and pop on the three handle knobs with the wee, little allen head screws.

15) reinstall seat.

One man seat removal tip: put a thick towel on lefthand bulkhead. Lift the seat up and rest it on the bulkhead. Get out while balancing seat. Then lift it out.
Two man seat removal is either out the rear window or out the lefthand door.

Thank you, Eric. Excellent tutorial. This is very clear. Sounds like a project for the Spring if I do this. I can just see myself in the middle of it when we get a snowstorm.

 

[countrybumpkin]

It doesn't take long to install the remotes, I think it took me about a hour.

 

[Overtaxed]

To convert the valve into a floatable valve, one needs to remove the stock cable-actuated valve, and screw in a cable-actuated floating valve into the stackable valve body, just as one screws in a detent for constant flow into the valve body. The threads are BSPP. Ring up Surplus Supply.

BTW, I need to get a double acting tilt ram for my NX with the right sized clevis on top and bottom from you. I don't need any other hydraulic fittings. I have the measurements if you don't have them for the NX5510 and NX6010 which are different than the NX4510 and NX5010.

Eric,

Did you ever change your valves into a float? I'm considering doing it to one of mine and wondered if you ever found the parts required?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I did not.

 

[jgedmond]

I am looking to buy an NX4510 before the current incentives expire at the end of this month (free loader worth $5,600). My dealer quoted me $300 for each additional remote and $850 for a 3rd function, all including installation. I am pretty sure that the first (factory) remote has float. I am going to call tomorrow on whether the others can float or not. I thought that those were very good prices and I don't see a good reason to do it myself. FYI, I spent about $600 at Surplus Center adding two remotes to my Mahindra 3616.