Buying Advice CK4010 Purchase-Am I crazy?

[SammyNole]

Fair enough but keep in mind that even the 2610 has a lot of stump pulling power in low range and that a properly ballasted tractor is as important as power when considering ground engagement tasks. Most folks don't try to pull out stumps or trees anymore. Using a grapple to rip up roots and pushing trees over is more common. Those tasks are more a function of loader strength (same on 2610 and 4010) and weight which is also the same.

If you must have more horsepower no one will stop you but keep in mind that implements make more of a difference than horsepower for most tasks. Putting the extra money into implements is often smarter than paying the premium for horsepower. Offering 40 hp in this frame size is just a marketing game. Look back at the past twenty years of CUT development and you'll see that 25hp or so in that frame size has been considered decent power. They bore out the engine a tad, slap in bigger pistons and engine software and charge $2000 more. Easy for Kioti to make more money that way but not necessarily the best bang for the buck.

I gotcha. I was also looking at PTO HP. Its a huge jump (in my mind) from the CK2610, rated at 21.5 PTO HP to CK4010 at 33.5 PTO HP, which is about 35% more power. Wouldn't that allow me to run implements more efficiently? I know a 5" rotary mower will be more than enough power, but what about other things? Tiller, wood chipper, stuff like that? It was basically a $1K jump from 2610 to 3510, and then another $1K from 3510 to 4010. The biggest bang for the buck seemed to be the 3510 with its 28 PTO HP, but then my inner Tim Allen "More Power" took over and said for $1K more why not get 5.5 more PTO HP. Also, with the 3510 I already have to be subject to the DPF as well, so no difference there either. I guess basically I am just scared of the 2610 for what I consider an extreme lack of PTO power (though I don't really know if that would be an issue or not). According to the spec sheet, they all have the same pump flow rate of 11.7 gpm, so there is no advantage there.

 

[KTMT]

Just a note--check on the loader models available. The CK2610 uses a KL2610 loader while the CK3510/CK4010 use the KL4010 loader which is a little heavier.

 

[IslandTractor]

Just a note--check on the loader models available. The CK2610 uses a KL2610 loader while the CK3510/CK4010 use the KL4010 loader which is a little heavier.

I hadn't noticed that. If the KL4010 loader has more power then that is certainly a consideration. Maybe the CK3510 is the sweet spot. A loader upgrade ( haven't seen the specs yet) would be worth paying more for. Edit: I see the KL4010 loader offers almost a 50% increase in lift capacity (1250 to 1800). That is certainly worth paying extra for. I'll change my tune and advocate for the CL3510. A strong loader makes a big difference in brush clearing when combined with a grapple. Is the upgrade only $1000?

 

[K man]

If you ask me, I think 30 HP is good enough for the size of your lot. I have a CK30 HST and love it. Great work horse not too big or too small just the right size for working around buildings etc.

 

[sd455dan]

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

Enjoy the site.

150 miles is not that far of a distance if that dealership is truly supportive of you. (mine is a 1.5 hr. drive away) When you purchase your first tractor, ask them what you will need regarding tools & lubricants/oil/filters to maintain your rig. If you stock up initially, it'll save you heartache in the future.

A lot of modern tractors require a 17mm wrench. I've found that when purchasing a 'set' of metric wrenches/sockets, the 17mm is skipped. :smiley_aafz:

Must be an Aussie thing- in the US they seem to skip the 16 mm and 18 mm :confused3:

To the OP
For 2 K difference, and not knowing what all you may need the tractor to do in the future I vote for the largest machine /highest PTO HP
2k for the difference is money well spent my:2cents:

 

[dadster4]

I agree with your logic in considering the 4010 over the 3510..."if you move to TN in the future" even though it may seem silly to spend the 1K more now, a little more HP never hurts. It's not like you're jumping into the next series higher. The loader capacity of the 3510 and 4010 are much better than the 2610, and will DEFINITELY come in handy. The dealer I purchased from is over 2-1/2 hours away, but others are nearby if I need an emergency repair. Over 175 hours seat time since April with only an ECU update needed per Kioti and no other problems to date. With your experience servicing Bobcats (previously built by Kioti) maintenance shouldn't be a problem. And yes, you will need a 17mm socket for the front wheels:laughing:

 

[SammyNole]

Hey guys. Sorry for disappearing when I have been so much great advice. I actually went back over to the dealer today to look everything over, and I have been reading all the comments on the drive over and back.

KTMT/IslandTractor-
I saw the huge discrepancy in the loader capacities, so that is one reason why I was looking at the 3510, and was so surprised at the small price jump up to the 4010 is what instigated this whole thing.

sd445dan/dadster4-
I was thinking that as well, that for only $2k today why not go as big as possible. I'm sure with inflation in a couple of years it will be more like 3, 4, or 5k in difference if I decide that I want to go bigger. I want to take as small a hit as possible right now, especially considering added emissions, etc that could be down the road. I figure tractors are getting any cheaper and emissions regs aren't getting any looser.

dadster4-
I'm actually from close to Bristol, TN, on the Virginia side. Near Wise and Coeburn, VA. And my wife's family lives in Middle Tennessee, near Cookeville. Small world. And while I was at Bobcat we actually never handled any of the CT models, so I really am not familiar with them at all. But I figure should anything go wrong, I can try to troubleshoot over the phone with the dealer. They are a small town shop full of good ol' boys, not a big corporate shop who just say "bring it in". Heck, when I was over there today I was invited to eat lunch with them and treated like one of the guys. Seem like a good bunch, but we will see.

Oh, and I will be getting a new CK4010HST in my driveway at around 2pm central tomorrow.

 

[IslandTractor]

Congratulations and welcome to the pack!

 

[Wagtail]

Must be an Aussie thing- in the US they seem to skip the 16 mm and 18 mm :confused3:

Yeah, and I don't know why... unless it's a matter of supply/demand towards the automotive market. Oh well.

There are heaps of individual 17mm spanners available, just not normally in a 'set'. I've since bought 3 different versions (straight, ratchet & pivot-ratchet) and marked them all with green electrical tape.

 

[SammyNole]

Yeah, and I don't know why... unless it's a matter of supply/demand towards the automotive market. Oh well.

There are heaps of individual 17mm spanners available, just not normally in a 'set'. I've since bought 3 different versions (straight, ratchet & pivot-ratchet) and marked them all with green electrical tape.

Yeah it is weird, because for me, 17mm, 18mm, and 19mm were used on a pretty much daily basis, and 16mm on a semi regular basis. I would never buy a set of anything if it ever skipped a size, so everything I have runs at least from 10-19, but usually from 8-22 or 8-24, both in 1/2 and 3.8 drive. I've found that Grey Pneumatic and Sunex impact socket sets usually don't skip, are good values, and hold up well. Not sure what you have in Australia.