Remove "housing" from "front axle case"

[twigpig]

I am replacing the seals in the bevel gear case on the left front axle on my Kioti CK30. It leaks. I have to invest in a set of good snap ring pliers. See post in Parts/Repairs forum. I am cruising along pretty good until I get to the final part I have to take apart. It is called the "housing" in the service and parts manual. Part number T2185-43471. It has a burr on the inside like someone has tried to pry it out before. I looked at the O ring that fits into it but I can't see any damage. I have a new housing O rings and seals. Thank you Wallace Tractor. The housing is a machined metal ring that looks like it is just pressed in. I would have to press on the bearing from the inside in order to push it out from behind. I don't think that is a good idea. I was wondering if there is a trick or tool to use to pry it out from the top? Flathead screwdriver? Has anybody taken one of these out? I labeled the housing in red in the first photo. I included the other photo so you can get an idea of what part I am working on.

 

[TractorLegend]

It appears from my limited view if bearings need to be removed by common folks (us) methods they would be compromised/ destroyed. Driving them out with a LARGE (foot long heavy duty comes to mind) drift punch by angling it from the backside and criss crossing your blows, or a slide hammer with a 3 leg bearing puller attachment. I think it looks like new bearings would be safest bet if you have to do any hammering removal of any type. Reinstall new bearings with a driver that closest matches bearing outer diameter, or using old bearing as a driver. Prelube with some bering grease so they dont run dry initially. Not sure if I helped.

 

[DirtHauler]

How about using a bearing puller (available@ Harbor Freight etc.) and maybe heating up the "gear case" around the "housing"?

 

[Sandlot]

You have gone awful deep not to just drop a new set of bearing in while you are there. You can just hammer them out, change out the o-ring, press in a new set of bearings, good to go.

 

[twigpig]

Today I took the gear case to a machine shop I have used in the past. They said the only way they had to extract the housing was to press on the inner race of the bearing and that would probably ruin the bearing. We scraped some more of the dirt away from the grove between the housing and the assembly and it appeared that oil was not coming from anywhere around the housing. Since I don't have a new bearing on hand I am just going to put it back together with the other new seals and see if that stops the leak. If it doesn't it won't take me but an hour or so to get it stripped back down to where I have it now. It's always easier once you've taken it apart and put it back together once. What concerns me now is the outer race of that bearing travel in and out of the assembly about 1/16 inch. I thought that would leave a gap between the housing and the outer race so they could get some kind of puller with a thin flange to pull it. No. The shop said that the outer race should not really be that loose. It doesn't take too much force with the fingers to wiggle the outer race that 1/16 inch or so between the housing and the stop on the case. I can't get the race to turn against the case but there really isn't much to get a hold of. The housing is what is really keeping the bearing in place instead of the outer race. The shop said it should still be ok though.

 

[Trac-Tech]

Hi Twigpig
I have read your plight since you started to pull the thing apart and are a little confused? I have attached the section from the wrokshop manual for you for the front axle. Please look on page 7-14 and you can then give possibly a better description of what is proving to be difficult for you. It should not be too bad to look after normally, but sometimes these things are sent to try our patience. Tell me where the issue is and I will see if I can find out what you need to know and let you know from there.
Cheers
Trach-Tech

 

[TractorLegend]

If your bearings are loose and walking about that can cause seal damage and leakage. A textbook repair would be to replace the retaining housing. A backyard repair attempt would be to take a center punch and punch a series of divots in the smooth surface diameter where the bearing goes, which raises metal and may give enough bite to have bearing hold. Locktite bearing retainer adhesive would also be a good attempt along with above.
Good luck.

 

[twigpig]

The part that wont come out without ruining the bearing is reference #10 on page 14 labled housing in the workshop manual that you posted in pdf. The parts manual shows it as ref. no. 09 part no. T2185-43471 housing. The parts manual shows an o-ring reference #10 part #04811-11100 that does not show up in the workshop manual. I think the o-ring fits in the grove between 2 outer flanges in the housing. That o-ring is really not exposed to any wear. It is well protected by the housing and does not appear to be where the leak is coming from. It is the outer race of the bearing reference #11 ball bearing in your posted workshop manual that moves in and out about 1/16 inch between the housing and the case. It is labled reference #11 part no. 08101-06012 bearing ball in the parts manual.

 

[Trac-Tech]

I have had a chance to check things out a little more for you today. The "housing" you refer to is held into the housing by interferance fit and the o'ring you mention aroud the outside. To remove it, there is a small lip around the inner diameter that you may be able to lever on with a couple of small pry bars. The other thing you could do is to drill two small holes down into the "housing" and tap them, fit some small bolts and use them to lever onto the housing. If you try the first method I mentioned, be sure you can get a new one before you start as the lip I mentioned is fairly delicate and it may break or chip away and it is needed to hold the o'ring from the "floating seal" in from dropping down into the bearing. I dont think it should be too expensive a part to replace along with the o'ring now that you are there. The actual seal is the two highly polished surfaces, one in the "housing and one on the kingpin. These need to be spotless when you reassembel the unit or it will leak straight away. As you have guessed, you will have to remove this part to get the bearing out and I agree with Tractor Legend with regards to a quick fix if the outer race is loose in the main hub, but maybe you could get it machined and a bush fitted to retain the bearing. this would be a much better fix and premanent. But the cost will be higher, machining etc. I hope this helps and if I can be of more assistance, please sing out and I will try to offer more advice.

 

[twigpig]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I decided to leave the housing and it's seal in place for now although I have the replacements in hand. If I ever decide to change that seal and the housing I'll know I need a replacement bearing on hand in the likely event that the old bearing will be ruined when the housing is pressed out via the bearing. I put it all back together with new floating seals and presto. No leaks. I used a ratcheting tie down strap around the axle case to compress the floating seals together while I installed the retaining ring in case anybody else has to do this. I shoulda taken pictures. I had to wait for Wallace Tractors to send a set of tie rod ends because whoever the maroon was that took the tie rod off last switched ends. That doesn't sound like a problem until you have to replace one end and the part is being shipped across the US. While the package said left hand on the tie rod end it was the wrong threads. Wallace quickly shipped both ends in case there was a packaging error. There wasn't. I will send both left hand tie rod ends back tomorrow. Thanks Wallace. I'm not too worried about being able to move the outer bearing race in and out by hand. All of the bearing outer races in the case seam to fit with the same resistance. They seam snug enough not to turn but loose enough so you can take them out with your fingers. I ran the tractor a couple of hours today and checked for leaks. The repaired axle did not leak but the darn fuel filter bowl cracked on the bottom. Fortunately the previous owner warned me that the fuel bowl is fragile so I already had a spare from Wallace on hand. I better order another one. I am going to post a thread asking if others have had problems with cracking fuel filter bowls.