CK 20 hood won't open

[c2020again]

Has anyone had trouble with their CK 20 hood hanging and not opening?
Mine has been fine, but I went to lift it yesterday and it is binding in the center on top and will not open? Any suggestions?

 

[IslandTractor]

Are you saying that the latch works but then you cannot raise the hood past a certain point? Has the hood been damaged in any way you are aware of?

 

[c2020again]

The release latch works fine. The hood will pop up about an inch or so as usual. When you then try to lift the hood to the upright position, the orange top of the hood makes contact with the grey backside of the dash console stopping the lifting.

My tractor has 13 hours on it, is garage kept and has had no damage whatsoever. It worked one day, then didn't the next. It is a mystery to me!

 

[IslandTractor]

I wonder if the dash has slipped or pivoted forward somehow. The only other way that could happen is if the hood itself was damaged and that did not happen.

 

[c2020again]

I'll check that. Thanks for responding. I don't see how the console could have slipped, but I will certainly check it. There is clearance (maybe a 1/4 inch) before you start the lifting motion then it binds. It is like the hood should come up at the same time it moves back, but doesn't.

The dealer service man is supposed to come out next week and check out a couple of other issues. If you have any suggestions on these, I would appreciate it.

1. The service rep is to replace the light/flasher/horn switch on this 2007 model. My knee has repeatedly hit the knob when getting on the tractor and cracked the knob. (This has had to have happened to other people, Kioti placed this knob way too close to the edge allowing it to be hit, the 2006 knob was in a better location IMHO).

2. Another problem is, when completely lowered, the loader bucket touches on one side, but the other side you can slide your hand under. I never noticed this until recently. The tire pressure is right. Since new I noticed that the bar connecting the 2 sides of the loader was going downhill on one side. The service man said there was no adjustment to the loader. It sure makes it hard to back blade dirt with it uneven.

3. Since the temp has reached 50 degrees, I have a hard time starting it.
I wait for the glow light to go off (sometimes do this twice) and still it is hard to catch. When it does, there is a huge cloud of smoke, some white, some black. Then it clears up and runs awesome. I have read elsewhere on this site about this problem sometimes being caused by a bad glow plug relay. I will mention this to him.

Don't get me wrong by mentioning these problems. ALL brands have bugs. I love my tractor and just want to fix whatever I can on my own.

Thanks again.

 

[natem]

I have the ck20s hst, with about 8 hrs on it. I am having that same problem with the cold engine starts, you described it to a T. I don't know if yours has this or not, but mine has a big black mark on the loader where the muffler blows on it, I don't know what that is all about with only running it for 8 hrs. Let me know if you get this resolved. I have been told that this is normal.

 

[IslandTractor]

CK20's all have black marks on the loader from the exhaust. Normal.

I never had much trouble starting mine so cannot give much help in that dept.

 

[mrutkaus]

You can't live with the loader twisted, they have to fix that!

Mike

 

[VictorW]

Ck30's have black on the left loader arm too. The nature of burning diesel and the exit of the exhaust pipe. But mine has always started fine. At 50', I just use the normal single cycle of the glow plugs. I don't need two cycles until it's around 30' or less. It would start without two cycles but it makes a racket and blows black for a bit. Your CK20 should start easier and I'm sure they will find the problem.

 

[malk315]

On your tough starting problem --

Put the glow on as normal to pre-heat and wait either til it goes out or until it is about to go out and start cranking the tractor. Once it starts to run (turns over), let the key come back just enough to stop cranking, but don't come back to the normal run position -- keep it half way between run and crank (there will be spring tension on the key). This will keep the yellow glow pre-heat light on and will be using battery power to keep the glow plugs glowing and the tractor will be running at the same time. I've found on extra cold days, this makes the tractor run smoother on the first super cold start of the day and it seems to help get the fuel burnt rather than blowing out unburnt fuel. You can control when you want the yellow glow light to go out in this situation -- just let go of the key and it goes right out.

I can't take credit for the above trick. I believe bearhawk was the original post I saw this on and tried it to see if it would cut down on smoke on the cold starts.

I've never had a hard time starting mine -- i.e. it always turns over, but the trick above seems to make less black smoke and yields less time of running rough on the cold starts.

On another note, I do use powerservice in my fuel for anti-gel and cetane boost. It claims to increase lubricity of the fuel and it may help too. I use about 3.2 ozs of power service per 5 gallons of fuel. That is the maximum recommended amount from the directions on the powerservice bottle. Walmart carries powerservice -- wife just bought me a gallon on her last visit.

It's pretty good when the wife gets tractor supplies to help fund my habits.