Where do the Custome Fuse wires go?

[RexB]

I've read a dozen wiring threads here, but am still trying to set up work lights from a good source. Where do the red and red/black wires from the 15A Customer Fuse come out at, so I can connect to them? (I'd rather use those than the black bayonet-terminal wires under the rear cowling. )

Another question- the engine temperature sensor gauge on the dash has stopped registering engine heat. The connection is tight from the thermostat housing, so is there another place to look to fix it?

The shop service manual doesn't help, these tractors need a Chiltons/Haynes/... illustrated manual.

 

[IXLR8]

Rex,
I am trying to do the same thing, was going to pull from the same connection. My dealer showed me the fuse... but had no idea where the wire came out. My CK30 is at my vacation home in Maine... I will be there tomorrow and I have some time to check things out. Will let you know if I find anything.

 

[IXLR8]

Rex, I am still searching for where the Customer Fused wire goes. I did find a connection to the 'Backup/Working light' fuse. The wires seem to be wrapped around the main bundle of wires coming from the fuse box. They are up behind the clutch pedal. I had to pull the lower 'dash' panel to aid in being able to see it. The RED/green wire comes from the fuse, the YELLOW wire is suppose to go the the Backup light. See attached photo. If photo does not attach correctly, it is also posted in my photo gallery.

 

[virgil]

why not go directly to the battery ?

put in a fuse or a breaker, a switch, ground the circut, a few zip-ties, and go to work...

did i miss something here?

 

[virgil]

your temperture sender / sensor for the guage is on the right / rear of the engine in the head.. it is vertical, close to the injector. a tight spot for big hands...

the sensor / sendor you spoke about at the thermostat goes to the timmer /relay circut for the glo-plugs. I learned this the hard way.. had a coustomer that the glow plugs would not work. relays, timers, switches and harnes was OK... it took me several hours to see it it was not plugged in at the thermostat !

 

[williekioti]

I tied into the fuse box under the dash above the brake pedals. If I remember correctly there is a user fuse position but no wires. I connected into it with a flat bayonett connector(going on memory). Will snap a pic of it today and post later.................................

I had to unbolt the fuse box and pull out to work on it. I also grounded it directly to the chasis under there somewhere near the box.

A REAL shop manual would be awesome...................................maybe someday Chilton/Haynes/Clymer will step up to the plate.

 

[RexB]

Rex, I am still searching for where the Customer Fused wire goes. I did find a connection to the 'Backup/Working light' fuse. The wires seem to be wrapped around the main bundle of wires coming from the fuse box. They are up behind the clutch pedal. I had to pull the lower 'dash' panel to aid in being able to see it. The RED/green wire comes from the fuse, the YELLOW wire is suppose to go the the Backup light. See attached photo. If photo does not attach correctly, it is also posted in my photo gallery.

Good morning Jim! You're up in Maine now? I was stationed in Winter Harbor, lived in Hancock. Beautiful state, just too darn cold and long winters. Hope your tractor hut is heated

I've been in the shop a couple of hours this morning looking for our wiring too. Your good find for the Backup/Work light bayonet connectors under the clutch. The Red/Green(Aqua?) wire is heavy enough for another light and shows 12V when the key is on/preheat. And it's in a handy position to run up my fabbed TOPS/ROPS structure to the lights.




The Customer Fuse block shows 12V when the key is on Accessory, that's the key position I want (or hot all the time would be fine too) so I'm heading back out to look for more red/black wires.

I checked under the center-dash panel, the harness just passes through. There are hydraulic connections and the steering linkage, which I hope never to have to mess with.

 

[RexB]

why not go directly to the battery ?

put in a fuse or a breaker, a switch, ground the circut, a few zip-ties, and go to work... did i miss something here?

You didn't miss anything Virgil. I'd just rather use the existing Customer Fuse if I can find where the wires go to, and my lights have weatherproof switches on them already.

I've got a weatherproof switch and inline fuse for the lights directly off the battery if have to go that route. Tracking down wiring stinks, so that may happen.

Thanks for the info on the engine coolant temp sensor...all my underhood connectors are plugged in. I was trying to avoid pulling the dash off to check if the connector on the guage has come loose. Have you worked on that too, or the glo-plug circuit only, if I was reading that right.

 

[RexB]

I tied into the fuse box under the dash above the brake pedals. If I remember correctly there is a user fuse position but no wires. I connected into it with a flat bayonett connector(going on memory). Will snap a pic of it today and post later.................................

I had to unbolt the fuse box and pull out to work on it. I also grounded it directly to the chasis under there somewhere near the box.

A REAL shop manual would be awesome........................maybe someday Chilton/Haynes/Clymer will step up to the plate.

Yes another vote for a real shop manual, it was nearly a wasted $70 for this kioti manual so far. Time will tell on future repairs...

Coming directly from the fuse box is a good route too, this Customer Fuse (bottom fuse in the fuse box) is 12V with the key on Acc'sy. If I can't find where those wires go to, that's where I'll pull the worklight power from

 

[virgil]

please look closely at the wires (a big heavy glow, and a little temp) at the right rear of the head. There is a "bracket / eye" back there that the factory used to set the engine with. it is bolt on -12 mm if I remember right. I had one ck that the temp wire and glo plug wire was pinched against the firewall by this bracket. It took about 100 hrs of use before the wire shorted out.

If the wires look ok, then blame it on the temp sensor...part # E5205-32832.

I have had a few units with rat damage under the dash. it is real easy to remove the dash for an inspection. 10 mm deep set socket is all you will need.
hope this helps