How to replace engine main bearings, Anyone???

[CalTrac]

6-7-08, Anyone have any info on changing engine bearings in the Kioti LK3054 engine installed in the tractor or "in chassi" as it's sometimes called ??. I've heard that it can't be done, can this be true? I really don't want to pay $4000 to replace an engine when the parts only cost $150, seems silly. The dealers' labor cost to pull the engine replace the bearings, then reinstall the engine is so high that engine replacement is a certain option. Can bearings be replaced where she sits, so-to-speak?? Any help, tips, watch-out's, and look-outs, etc's are welcome here on TBN.ct

[bluechip]

R&R the engine would be the same to replace the bearings or the whole engine. Once the engine is on the bench, the oil pan and flywheel removed, disconnect and remove the rods (so the head has to come off too), the bearing carriers are unbolted from the block and the crank and bearing carriers are easily removed out the rear of the engine. Repair of your engine should still be much less than installing a new engine, less than half the cost. If the tractor has several thousand hours on it, I might consider a new engine, but you could put in some fresh rings and bearings farily inexepsively. probably around 20-25 hours labor and a few hundred in parts. Replacing the engine is likely 10 hours by itself, I don't have pricing at hand but I'm thinking a complete engine is going to be near 3000.00 give or take.

[Iron Horse]

Unless they are different to all other engines you would simply remove the sump and undo the "Big Ends" or conecting rod caps one at a time (as these wear more than the mains). Have the crank pin at bottom dead center and take off the nuts and cap . Push up on the rod enough for it to be swung a little to one side and remove the bearing shell . Check the condition of the journal and the size of the bearing stamped on it's back to make sure that the crank has not been ground . Check the bearings as sometimes there is a top and bottom bearing , one having an oil hole to feed the little end bush . Replace the shell with the new one making sure the tang is located in the slot . Put a little engine oil on the top of the crank pin with your finger and pull the rod back down onto the pin . Replace the shell on the cap and reinstall and re tension the nuts to torque , mark them with a paint pen after you've done that so you know they are done . Do main bearings one at a time as the unsupported weight of the crank and flywheel will damage the end seals . Get an Aluminium truck brake shoe rivet and put the shank into the oil hole in the crank pin and rotate the crank so that the rivet forces the shell out of the upper seat . Check and oil as you did with the "Big Ends" and using the rivet roll the new shell into its seat making sure the tang fits into the groove . Tighten and mark as before and proceed to the next . 4 hours tops .

[Harold B]

the engine needs to be removed just as bluechip said. Just got done doing a major overhaul on a lk 2554. The crankshaft will slide out the rear of the engine and then the main bearing carriers can be removed and the bearings replaced.

[Egon]

Will just replacing the bearings accomplish what you wish or should the crank lands also be checked for wear?

[Iron Horse]

Originally Posted by Harold B

the engine needs to be removed just as bluechip said. Just got done doing a major overhaul on a lk 2554. The crankshaft will slide out the rear of the engine and then the main bearing carriers can be removed and the bearings replaced.

I'm having a hard time imagining what this setup is . Is there a girdle that houses the crank that comes out of the rear of the block ? Sounds like a nightmare .

[bbse]

I did my 1995 LK3054 engine last year. If my memory is correct, the mains are in a saddle that bolts to the block. You take those loose and remove the housing cover in the rear of the block and slide the crank out the back. Yeah, yoh have to split the tractor and completely disassemble the motor but parts are cheap, I did my entire engine. I took the block to a local guy that does older engines and he had the proper equipment to cut the old can liners out and put in new ones. I replaced all the pistons, rings, bearings, seals, etc, had the head worked, he shaved a couple thousands off the top of the block, boiled the block out, polished the crank journals, etc.

The labor was around $600 for his engine work, I did all the disassembly and reassembly myself. I think parts totaled around $850 for the engine parts. I also ordered a lot of other things at the same time so I cannot go by the total bill, but I did the engine for around $1500.

[barneyrb]

CalTrac, with all the metal stuff you had floating around anything less than a complete tear down to clean the chunks very well could result in you doing this job again shortly. ANY piece caught in an oil passage is disaster waiting to happen. I vote to remove, completly tear down, boil block (machine shop), check crank, and reassemble. Just my $.02