Size of implements for a DK45SE

[mark.r]

Mark -
You had all 4 wheels spinning on a 7 foot rear blade? What about the BB? I am quite surprised by this. I have read your posts and have seen the work you do with your tractor. I believe that we have the same set up.

I have only been bogged down twice - three times with this tractor. 1) 5 ton stump - way too big for this tractor, and almost too big for this tractor and a skid steer.
2) When I had my home picked up and moved back further on the property we could not salvage the old porch (cement). The slab was about 17' long, about 8' wide, and had a three foot monolithic pour for the footer. Once again, way too big a job for this tractor. Had to get a big case backhoe to move it and snap it in half. Half of it was too much for this tractor. I had a guy take his skidsteer and flip it, which broke it.
3) Logging a maple tree

My BB has never caused my tractor to bog down.

The times you bogged down with the rear blade, were you pulling or pushing? I know you had it in 4 wheel, but did you have the differential lock on? Once I engage that thing my spinning normally stops. Also, are your rear tires loaded?

Sorry for all the questions, but I just got power back on at my house this week (after 9 weeks) and can do more research on my tractor. I had some real issues with it in the last two months. Performance issues I never expected, like lack of traction in mud and clay - like being on ice.

It's never been a power issue where I've bogged the tractor down. Heck, I don't ever even remember doing that using the toothbar on the loader. It's a traction issue. If you get the blade down into the dirt to deep too quickly you'll just spin. If you take it gradually you can fill up a 7ft. blade. I am sure an 8ft. would be no problem either, I just thing an 8ft. is getting to wide for it to be my one and only blade. If I had more than one than a 6 and 8ft. would be fine but a 7ft. is just big enough for big and small jobs.

 

[PA hayseed]

It's never been a power issue where I've bogged the tractor down. Heck, I don't ever even remember doing that using the toothbar on the loader. It's a traction issue. If you get the blade down into the dirt to deep too quickly you'll just spin. If you take it gradually you can fill up a 7ft. blade. I am sure an 8ft. would be no problem either, I just thing an 8ft. is getting to wide for it to be my one and only blade. If I had more than one than a 6 and 8ft. would be fine but a 7ft. is just big enough for big and small jobs.

Oh, I see. I agree with the traction issues with the tractor, I had quite a few of those issues too. I have stalled the tractor several times with FEL work, just tackling too big a job for the tractor. I have to remember that it isn't a piece of construction equipment, it's a very capable 45hp tractor. I really wish it had higher FEL lift capacity. I used to think 2k was good.

 

[IslandTractor]

I really wish it had higher FEL lift capacity. I used to think 2k was good.

I hear ya. However, the KL401 with its 2700lb lift and close to 4000lb breakout already has too much power for a 4000lb tractor. I am sure you guys have also managed to lift your rear wheels off the ground. I've managed to get both rears off the ground together even with a 600 lb mower hanging off the back while grappling out stumps. No way to use more loader strength without making the tractor lots heavier. (That is why I have 110 gallons of windshield washer fluid (800+lbs) out behind the barn to be installed one of these days)

I have also spun all four wheels especially in dry dirt or mud and I'm hoping more weight will make up for the R4s traction issues.

 

[PA hayseed]

(That is why I have 110 gallons of windshield washer fluid (800+lbs) out behind the barn to be installed one of these days)

I have also spun all four wheels especially in dry dirt or mud and I'm hoping more weight will make up for the R4s traction issues.

IT - I know you use that thing alot, but in my short time on my 45, the loaded rears, a BB that had added weight on it, and the overall weight of me and the tractor with FEL did nothing to keep if from bouncing around. The more I see skidsteers, the more I believe that these long tractors are really not meant for ground engaging work. Well, not serious ground engaging work. I'm not talking about plowing or dragging, their long frames help with that. I'm mainly talking about FEL work. Having moved several hundred tons of gravel, shale, dirt, topsoil, trees, concrete, and engine blocks (don't ask) in the last two months has made me formulate this opinion. It is just my .02 on the subject, and I'm no expert on anything that I know of, other than aches and pains.

 

[IslandTractor]

....The more I see skidsteers, the more I believe that these long tractors are really not meant for ground engaging work. Well, not serious ground engaging work. I'm not talking about plowing or dragging, their long frames help with that. I'm mainly talking about FEL work.

I wouldn't disagree. Tractors evolved primarily as horse replacements not as wheel barrow or shovel replacments. Adding an
FEL to a CUT makes a lot of sense for general utility but it certainly doesn't create an optimal dirt/gravel moving machine. Look at a modern front end loader which is balanced very differently than a CUT. I've not used a skidsteer but with those short wheel bases they couldn't be that comfortable either.

 

[deputyrpa]

Hey folks! Regarding the implements, with my DK45S, I pull a 10 foot disc harrow, and a six foot box blade (left-over from my Jinma 284), and an 8' landscape rake. I bent the 8' (not-so) Tuff-Line rake which, unfortunately, I had borrowed. Chunky clay. I also bent the box blade, even after I beefed it up with 1/2" steel gussetting, but, as with the rake, the damage wasn't due to it's size. I've discovered that there's really no perfect implement for dislodging a '53 Dodge duelly from it's 30-year-old resting spot. I sure had fun with the backhoe ripping it apart! I was surprised that I could also lift the **** thing with pallet forks and flip it over to get at the axles. Cool.

 

[R_squared]

Measure the actual width of your DK45 from outside of tire to outside of tire. My 2002, DK45 with R4s is approximately 2 inches wider than six foot. The extra two inches has caused problems when using a six foot boxblade. The tires will ride up on the ledge that was not cut. If you have to remove any real depth of material and you want to keep straight edges you will have to occasionally cut the ledges down to the current level. Your tractor should handle a 7 foot boxblade as long as the box is not heaping over with wet dirt. It is harder to maintain a height when the box is overloaded with wet dirt.

 

[mark.r]

Measure the actual width of your DK45 from outside of tire to outside of tire. My 2002, DK45 with R4s is approximately 2 inches wider than six foot. The extra two inches has caused problems when using a six foot boxblade. The tires will ride up on the ledge that was not cut. If you have to remove any real depth of material and you want to keep straight edges you will have to occasionally cut the ledges down to the current level. Your tractor should handle a 7 foot boxblade as long as the box is not heaping over with wet dirt. It is harder to maintain a height when the box is overloaded with wet dirt.

For the DK45SE I wouldn't even bother with a 6ft. attachment for the reason outlined above . . . unless you have some specific space limitations such as stall work or in buildings etc.

 

[IslandTractor]

Measure the actual width of your DK45 from outside of tire to outside of tire. My 2002, DK45 with R4s is approximately 2 inches wider than six foot. The extra two inches has caused problems when using a six foot boxblade. The tires will ride up on the ledge that was not cut.

There is usually enough lateral adjustment in a 3PT hitch to permit an inch or two or three offset for an implement if needed. That is not saying that a seven foot boxblade would not be better but you certainly should be able to use a six footer without the tire riding up on the uncut ledge.