Help installing block heater

[George in Spokane]

So there I am yesterday using a cultivator when I start to smell tranny fluid. I look at the gauges - temp is fine and no idiot lights.

The machine was working hard so I wondered if the HST "clutch" was having some trouble. Hmmm... a little while later the smell got stronger and a bit sweet. Almost done... hmmm... Why would a clutch smell sweet?...

Temp is 3/4 over


Walking back to the garage to get antifreeze I pass the little bastard in the dirt.

Moral of the story: never open a hole in your engine without threads to hold in the plug.

 

[JoelD]

Hi George,

Sorry to hear about your frustrations, nothing worse than something you've thought about and worried about and tried to avoid then happening.

What will be your next steps?

I got a hose heater for my tractor, I figured the worste that could happen would be going through an extra hose in the process of figuring out installation and having a botched first try.

Good luck George,
Joel

 

[Highbeam]

Wow. I've got to wonder if you washed out all of the anti-seize during install. You can see it bleeding down the block. Did you clean the hole out before driving the bushing in? I know you didn't dry it out.

I think I would prefer the generic hose type.

 

[IXLR8]

When I bought my used CK30, it had a radiator hose heater in it. The heater was leaking slightly, dealer said it was just spilled coolant left over from topping off radiator. Before I took delivery I asked him to double check and let me know, on delivery he said that it was leaking and he put in a new one. So... the radiator hose heaters can leak as well. On the other hand... I have never seen any reason to use it. Tractor is outside and has always started right up, even in sub-zero temps.

 

[Highbeam]

There's a leaky hose clamp and then there is the kind of leak that happens when your block heater falls out.

 

[George in Spokane]

Wow. I've got to wonder if you washed out all of the anti-seize during install. You can see it bleeding down the block. Did you clean the hole out before driving the bushing in? I know you didn't dry it out.


Thanks for the support guys.

The red stuff dripping down is threadlocker. There was no anti-seize on the freeze plug. I also dried the hole and roughed it up and the heater with 200 grit sandpaper. Then I used a damp cloth to remove any possible dust and dried it again. I also heated the garage up to 70 degrees.

No, the problem is that I did not drive the heater in far enough. It seemed to bottom out but is was very difficult to apply enough force. If someone is determined to do it I would recommend leveraging against the FEL arm.

The hose heaters are a good idea but I'm a little wary of more surgery. Last winter I added a battery heater so I may just stick with that and a long idle period.

 

[brackenrig]

Last year I had trouble with block heaters on my new dk55. The dealer installed heater kept buning out every time I used it.The element kept touching the cylinder sleeve every time they screwed in a replacment . On about the third time the bushing that holds the element pushed out the complete unit and lost most of the antifreeze. The brand the dealer was using was Kat as well. Instesd of waiting for the dealer to go through the same routine again I went into the local CarQuest parts store and found a similar heater element with a half inch shorter element . I think the the brand name was sub Zero and it is ment for Kubota tractors. Since changing out the element I have had no problems since.

 

[Highbeam]

Wow. I've got to wonder if you washed out all of the anti-seize during install. You can see it bleeding down the block. Did you clean the hole out before driving the bushing in? I know you didn't dry it out.


Thanks for the support guys.

The red stuff dripping down is threadlocker. There was no anti-seize on the freeze plug. I also dried the hole and roughed it up and the heater with 200 grit sandpaper. Then I used a damp cloth to remove any possible dust and dried it again. I also heated the garage up to 70 degrees.

No, the problem is that I did not drive the heater in far enough. It seemed to bottom out but is was very difficult to apply enough force. If someone is determined to do it I would recommend leveraging against the FEL arm.

The hose heaters are a good idea but I'm a little wary of more surgery. Last winter I added a battery heater so I may just stick with that and a long idle period.

Woops, I called the lok-tite anti-seize. I saw it running down the block and thought it was maybe because of dilution with coolant and was washed out. So are you going to try and replace the freeze plug now? Seems just as risky.

 

[George in Spokane]

Yes, I put the freeze plug back in. It is flexible so I think it is holding itself in. I had punched a hole in it when getting it out so I just welded it up.

 

[wheeldokter]

Well, I guess it's in.

The freeze plug came out pretty easily but I ended up poking a hole in it. Getting the drive-in-bushing to go in was difficult since the FEL was in the way. I ended up leaving the bushing outside in the 25 deg weather to shrink it. It is designed to only go in about 1/2 an inch so I worry it could fall out. If that happens I lose all my antifreeze and cook the engine.

I warmed up the engine and everything held but I still don't trust it. I really don't like opening a hole in my engine block and not being able to screw in a plug. I understand that freeze plugs can not have threads, but an extra threaded hole from the factory with a bung would be very welcome.

For others, the heater I used says Kat's Heaters but it also has a TISCO sticker with the code GE11461 and 70000-92500.

hello

i have a question. i have the same idea with my isuzu engine that the hole behind the frost plug is not deep enough. do you know where you can buy this adaptor and block heater?

thanks marcel