Help installing block heater

[George in Spokane]

I bought a block heater and the service manual from Rick Wallace. Does anyone know how to install it?

I assume I need to pry out a freeze plug but I'm not sure how and the manual doesn't say anything.


Thanks

 

[WSJ]

Rick? Please give George some real advice!

Nothing like installing a block heater in the dead of winter, eh? That's when I did mine last year.

Yes, gently tap the freeze plug out with a hammer and chisel or big screw driver. I tapped on one side until the lip raised on the other, then grabbed the lip with channel locks and yanked it out. I think it's important not to whack the plug too hard because you don't want your chisel or the plug driven into what's behind it.

It took me a while to get the heater in straight because I didn't remove the loader and clearance was at a minimum (CK 25 & KL-130). And of course I figured that out after draining the system and removing the freeze plug. I used a large socket and extension to set the block heater base (I guess you call it that). You do have to take the heater apart to install it. Good luck. -WSJ

 

[George in Spokane]

Thanks WSJ. Where and what side of the machine did you install it in? Also did you just tap/pound it in?

 

[WSJ]

On the CK-25 the one most accessible (I assume there's more than 1) was on the left. And yes, you just tap the heater in. Seems like the instructions called for a sealant or locktite or something.

 

[wallace]

Follow these steps...

1. Drain radiator
2. remove driverside engine panel
3. Locate the soft plug just in front of the starter
4. With a long screwdriver tap the plug in on one of the corners, using a pair of pliers pull the plug out.
5. Clean the hole
6. Apply some red loc-tite to the drive in bushing, using a socket and a long extension tap the bushing in it will not go all the way in, it will bottom out on the clylinder wall so be careful not to hit to hard.
7. Apply pipe tape around the threads and install the element into the bushing.
8. prior to installing the plug I put soapy water on the end that way when you tighten up the nut it helps so you don't end up twisiting the cord.

Sorry I didn't post sooner I had Firefighter schooling today.

 

[George in Spokane]

Thanks!

 

[dilbertnomore]

Mr. Wallace -

Please PM me the cost of one of a freeze plug block heater for a CK25 delivered to 24590. Doesn't get too cold in Central Virginia, but for the odd snow storm it might make the difference.

Thanks.

 

[WSJ]

dilbertnomore: I promise you it's worth the $$ and little bit of effort to install.

My CK25 started all winter long in northern PA and then upstate NY its first couple years without one. But it'd take at least 2 glow plug cycles and it just didn't sound happy to be trying to start at temps below 20. Since adding the block heater (and switching to synthetic oil) it spins right over and starts every time after only a single glow plug cycle at even below zero temps. And it's got to be easier on the machine.

Get one - they're well worth the $60 or so they cost. -WSJ

 

[George in Spokane]

Well, I guess it's in.

The freeze plug came out pretty easily but I ended up poking a hole in it. Getting the drive-in-bushing to go in was difficult since the FEL was in the way. I ended up leaving the bushing outside in the 25 deg weather to shrink it. It is designed to only go in about 1/2 an inch so I worry it could fall out. If that happens I lose all my antifreeze and cook the engine.

I warmed up the engine and everything held but I still don't trust it. I really don't like opening a hole in my engine block and not being able to screw in a plug. I understand that freeze plugs can not have threads, but an extra threaded hole from the factory with a bung would be very welcome.

For others, the heater I used says Kat's Heaters but it also has a TISCO sticker with the code GE11461 and 70000-92500.

 

[George in Spokane]

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