Ballast how heavy is too heavy lb-1914

[gladehound]

I have an LB-1914. For those who are not familiar, this is a 20hp, 2300 pound 4x4 mechanical gear tractor. After loader w tooth bar (800 lbs), rear weight (700 lbs), FOPS (300 lbs), filled rear tires (400 lbs) and me (230 lbs), the little tractor is approaching a 5,000 pound operating weight.

With 8 psi in the rears and 18 psi in the fronts (industrials) it sure does push, and it sure does pull!

But is there a limit to how far I can take this ballast thing? I am concerned about axle ratings because I don't now what they are and I'd like to put bigger curl cylinders on the loader.:thumbsup:

 

[Steve_Miller]

I have an LB-1914. For those who are not familiar, this is a 20hp, 2300 pound 4x4 mechanical gear tractor. After loader w tooth bar (800 lbs), rear weight (700 lbs), FOPS (300 lbs), filled rear tires (400 lbs) and me (230 lbs), the little tractor is approaching a 5,000 pound operating weight.

With 8 psi in the rears and 18 psi in the fronts (industrials) it sure does push, and it sure does pull!

But is there a limit to how far I can take this ballast thing? I am concerned about axle ratings because I don't now what they are and I'd like to put bigger curl cylinders on the loader.:thumbsup:

I think you'll be kinding pushing the limit if you put more strain on the loader especially with the weight behind it now. If your looking for an opinion here's my two cents...I'd say your at the limit but it's your machine.

Steve

 

[gladehound]

Thanks Steve. Obviously I wouldn't have written this if I didn't think there was a chance that you're right. I'd still really like to know what the axle ratings are.

The cage is actually structural and it takes some strain off the middle of the tractor by tying the front and rear of the tractor together at a second point besides the transmission / engine connection. The loader frame seems over built for the current cylinders. So my biggest concern is the front axle.

The only thing I know about the front axle is that I once stood the tractor on it's front axle with a full load of stone in the bucket and filled rears when I dropped the front into a ditch at speed. My frist thought was "$#@, I just broke the front axle!". But I was wrong. there was no damage. Has worked fine ever since.

So it seems if I were careful the front axle could take a little more lift. However, I'd love to hear from design engineers. i know there was one on here who was involved with the loader. I'd also love to hear from anyone who has pushed their tractors lift capacity without issues or with issues.

I'm adding a picture of the cage I recently had built so you can see how it connects the front and rear of the tractor.

 

[MichiganIron]

Ballasting a tractor for front loader work is sometimes mis-understood. "Filled" rear tires is mis-understood as good front loader ballast. Although it provides stability ballast for the tractor, and does not add load to the rear axle bearings, it doesn't distribute the picked load from a front loader to the tractor axles properly.

Before front loaders were a popular option on compact tractors, filled rear tires was a popular option for adding weight to a tractor to increase traction. It works very well for that. But when used to ballast a front loader, it also forces all of the loader reaction to the front axle. We have done studies using the spec dimensions of the KIOTI CK27/35 Tractors with the KL130 Loader. The reaction at the front axle using only rear tire ballast is over 150% of the picked load. By adding ballast at the 3-point hitch equalling the picked load, we used 1000 lbs, you reduce the influence reaction from the picked load at the front axle by 35%. That's significant when you consider what the front axle needs to do. The reaction at the rear axle is increased, but the rear axle is better designed to handle the load. Just consider the difference in loader lift capacity to 3-point lift capacity.

We always recommend customers carefully consider what type of tractor ballast is best for their application. We try to consider what the use of the tractor is going to be, and best match the ballast to the application. VERY OFTEN, rear tire ballast may not be the correct ballast solution, especially for heavy front loader use. It's convenient, and with Rimguard, it's non-corrosive, but it does nothing to distribute the picked load from a front loader to the tractor axles properly.

 

[gladehound]

Thanks for sharing this.... So it seems that if I increase loader lift, I should perhaps increase 3 pt ballast as well from the current 700 pounds to maybe a little more than that, or move the weight back further (currently at the lower link eyes), to compensate for the stronger loader with the potential downfall that I am more likely to break the tractor in half, which i don't think will happen with the additional overhead "frame". I could also fab a sub-frame. Now to find some cylinders!

 

[DEON]

I own a CK25HST. I modified my loader to have stronger lift and curl.
I spent weeks looking at other tractors and compared them to mine.
I found brand new Kubota tractors with about 40 hp and much larger loaders
that extend further forward than the CK models. I found the larger Kubotas used the same size steel cross plate (where the pivot bearings attach to) as the CK models and the front axle in the CK is beefier than the Kubota.
The castings may have thinner walls on the CK but not likely as the Kioti is a heavier tractor. My stronger loader has been used a lot in dirt and rock since the mods but I don't slam things around. I try to be smooth and have been more than impressed with the results. My loader is now very sturdy and precise. Feels like a commercial loader. I did add a substantial under frame to remove strain from the transmission housing and I do keep lots of weigh on the 3 pt. hitch.
I also built the heated cab.

 

[gladehound]

Beautiful job on the cab! Thanks for your post. It's great to hear from people who've gone there before you...

I feel the same way about the build of my tractor versus others with similar lift / curl capacities. The lb1914 seems way over built. Time will tell. I'll probably wait a few months at least to do the cylinders since my wife wants a fence, kids want a play set, wife wants a stone patio... Hmmm... I should tell her I NEED new cylinders to build the stone patio! he, he... always think'n.

How much did you increase your lift and curl? From what to what?

I'll tell you, weight on the rear is great. This evening I was doing loader work in 2wd and I thought I was in 4wd. Didn't realize it until I put the tractor away. But I guess I have an extra 1,800 pounds on the rear compared to an unweighted LB1914.

You're loader looks great too with the new paint job! It makes the whole tractor look more industrial.

I'm attaching some pictures of my $30, 700 pound rear ballast and cage.