coolant recovery tank gurgling

[PoorMansCat]

Yep.. sounds like a cylinder head gasket or cracked cylinder head. Hate to hear that. The water pump won't typically push coolant like you are describing. The regulator hasn't had time to open but you are getting considerable pressure...
Another thing that is a flag is the white smoke that came out of the exhaust... probably some antifreeze that has accumulated in one or more cylinders and was burnt off when the engine was started.

 

[jhixf564]

If I don't let mine heat before I start it mine will blow white smoke. Is that OK or do I need to start looking for a problem on mine also?

 

[SPYDERLK]

I went back out to the property with a few ideas to try. With the engine cold, I refilled the radiator and coolant recovery tank. I left the radiator cap off. As soon as the engine turned over white smoke came out of the muffler. The engine rpms were low and gradually recovered and the smoke stopped. The coolant started coming out of the radiator neck imediatelty, like a geyser, so I shut it down. I think this still points to a leaking head gasket. I don't think the coolant could have been pushed out ot the neck of the radiator by the water pump. Any other ideas? Thanks for the help from everyone.

yes. put the cap on and see if pressure builds up quickly in the radiator after you start -- before it even gets hot. u can squeeze the upper radiator hose while curling the bucket against its stop to put a load on the engine. if it doesnt pressurize its a good sign, but more checking will be needed to tell for sure. If it does pressurize its almost surely time to remove the head.
larry

 

[PoorMansCat]

If I don't let mine heat before I start it mine will blow white smoke. Is that OK or do I need to start looking for a problem on mine also?

Thats probably a different white smoke from incomplete combustion in cold cylinders.

If you are having no other symptoms (like the OP), I wouldn't worry.

 

[blue262]

I finally found some time to get the head off my tractor. I have attached a few photos of where the head gasket failed. After looking at the design I am surprised that this has not happened often and there is no mention on any board of Kiotis with head problems. I think the coolant holes are too close to the cylinders. This causes the gasket to not be very wide in this area. There is only about 1/8 of gasket between the 480 psi cylinder and the 12 psi coolant holes. From discolorations on the head I would say there were a few spots leaking on my head gasket and it has been leaking for while. Even though I had not seen the white smoke until the final failure. I fully expect it to fail again, it took 501 hours to fail this time.

 

[Tnbilly]

It'll increase your costs of course but you may well want to consider replacing the head bolts as well. I'd be real exacting with torque and re-torquing. If the books calls for it or not on the re-torque. Maybe even 50hrs down the line. Just as a tid-bit I remember a few years back Ford had lots of problems with their V-6's head gaskets. Gasket looked a whole lot like yours. Solution was eventually fixed by Ford with a new gasket but for most of us we just went to Fel-Pro for the solution. Best of luck!

 

[jake98]

I fully expect it to fail again, it took 501 hours to fail this time.

Don't be so pessimistic.. It'll probably never happen again. Are you going to check the head for flatness?

 

[blue262]

Yea, I stoned both surfaces lightly to clean them up a bit. The tolerance for flatness is .002" and I didn't see anything with a precision ground straight edge and feeler blade.

 

[jake98]

That's good to hear. Did you get the new gasket yet? How much?
Maybe check the bolts and block, that they were tapped far enough. Probably just wasn't torqued enough.

 

[blue262]

The gasket was $41 and the repair manual was $75. I ordered and received them in 2 days from my closest dealer 98 miles away.

I wouldn't have attempted this job without the manual. I have a mechanical background, but not diesel engines. I use a lot of repair manuals from different OEM's in my work. I would give the Kioti manual a B-/C+. All the technical stuff is there, but the text and pictures are weak.