Anti-Freeze Issue or ?

   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ? #1  

dourobob

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2002
Messages
672
Location
Just West of Buckhorn, Ontario, Canada
Tractor
Wheel Horse 522xi
Hi
I am looking for some advice on what I should be checking for the following on my DK45SE HST:


  • A few weeks ago my temp gauge dropped to "no reading".
  • I checked the rad and discovered it was down - approx one quart of 50/50 mix was added
  • No evidence of leaks noted at this point
  • A week or so later the level was down again
  • Add another quart of 50/50
  • This time I notice some wet stains below the in-line plug-in heater
  • Overflow tank is about half full
  • I put a tray under this area and, over the course of a couple of days collected about 1/2 cup of antifreeze
  • Checked clamps at the heater and they were loose - tightened them and once again, topped up the rad.
  • Now it appears that the heater is not working - plugged it in for an hour but could not feel any heat around the outside.
  • I started the tractor and ran it until it got warm - everything seemed normal - temp gauge reads normal.
  • Once back in the barn I let it sit for half a day with the drip tray under the heater
  • No leaks evident now but ..
  • When I remove the rad cap to check levels the antifreeze pushes up the neck of the rad and overflows
  • Back out today - still no evidence of leaks under heater but the overflow tank is almost empty and the antifreeze comes out the top of the rad (probably 2 or 3 tablespoons full) when I take the cap off.
  • Ran it for 30 minutes and it seems to run fine - temp gauge indicates normal - but overflow tank seems to be down a bit more than when I started.
  • No evidence that I can see of antifreeze in the oil
Only 10 hours on the tractor but dealer is 90 minutes away and I do not have a trailer.

Does this sound serious enough to get the dealer to check it right away or are there a few more things I should check and be sure about before I do that?


Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.


Bob
 
   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ? #2  
If it's under warrenty have a dealer take a look at it.

It's not worth having a problem and you get blamed for screwing around with the tractor.
 
   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ? #3  
If it's under warrenty have a dealer take a look at it.

It's not worth having a problem and you get blamed for screwing around with the tractor.

Absolutely, if its under warranty, contact the dealer and advise them of the situation. It could something simple, but it could also be a cylinder head gasket giving up.
 
   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ? #4  
Warranty.
Call dealer.
 
   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ? #5  
Sounds like one problem that was fixed to me. Probably some air in the system which is being replaced by the surge (overflow) tank as it cools after use. A little air pressure would push some coolant out when removing the cap. Seems like the cap is working fine too. I would run it a little more letting it warm up good then cool off and see if levels stabilize. The surge tank will normally be a little higher when warm than cold but should go back to a stable cold level when it cools again.
 
   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ? #6  
Same here. Sounds like it's fixed and full and will stabilize.
 
   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Sounds like one problem that was fixed to me. Probably some air in the system which is being replaced by the surge (overflow) tank as it cools after use. A little air pressure would push some coolant out when removing the cap. Seems like the cap is working fine too. I would run it a little more letting it warm up good then cool off and see if levels stabilize. The surge tank will normally be a little higher when warm than cold but should go back to a stable cold level when it cools again.

Same here. Sounds like it's fixed and full and will stabilize.

Hopefully you folks are correct. I have used it twice this weekend and everything appears to be back to normal (with the exception of the lower rad hose heater still not working). Have had some correspondence with my dealer over the weekend and he will discuss this situation with his mechanics this morning. Will know more this afternoon and will be happy to report back here - especially if time and usage are the key to getting thing stabilized again.

Thanks for all the comments.
Bob
 
   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ? #8  
This is an interesting thread b/c I just noticed my (DK40SE HST) overflow tank/bottle was empty. I added a 50/50 mix and while I was using it the other day, the needle on the temp gauge was on the "C" of the gauge when it is normally b/w the "C" and the "H". Outside temp was around 27F. It is parked in an insulated garage. I have 86 or 87 hours on it. Didn't see anything on the oil dipstick when I pulled and checked it (all oil).

Bob, will be interested to hear how your situation turns out and I'll share anything on my end.

Thanks to all!!
 
   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I talked with my dealer's mechanic today and, because I have had two successful runs where everything was normal, we have concluded (as suggested earlier) that there was some kind of air bubble or air lock in the cooling system as a result of the leak around the rad-hose heater. Running it to warm and then shutting down a couple of times seems to have done the trick. (Kinda like "burping' the tractor)

That is the good news.

The heater is still not working though. I checked for power at the heater end of the power cord and it appears fine. Have heard these plugs can be temperamental and have to be fastened to the unit perfectly in order to work. I 'll play with that a little more.

Any advice on how to make sure the connections actually connect and/or how I might test the actual heater would be appreciated.

Thanks folks.

Bob
 
   / Anti-Freeze Issue or ? #10  
I assume you are talking about the blower for the heater. If so and the heater blower runs on 12 volt current, you can directly attach it to a 12 volt battery and see if the blower works. I'd just use 2 pieces of electrical wire.

You can check the plug end by using a automotive circut tester. It's basically a 12 volt bulb in a tool that looks like a screwdriver with a ice pick on one end and an alligator clip on the other. Ground the clip and put the probe into the prongs on the outlet if you have power, the light will go on.

If you have power at the plug and the blower works when hooked up to a battery, then the connection between the blower plug and the blower switch bust be bad.

Hope this helps.
 
 
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