Skid plate

[Coyote machine]

Yeah, IT, If Bob is too swamped with being retired to do any fabrication I'd go for a set from your foundry, too. I'd even pay for them to keep your overhead down!:thumbsup:

Oh yeah, almost forgot - Murph can be the Ginuea Pig for the 'first set', You know, the ones you usually toss out due to defects in material or workmanship:confused2::laughing:

 

[Kioti Tom]

The plates would not fit on my DS3510. But what I was thinking, Maybe, Bob would make up a couple of sets of templates and send them to a number of requestors for the plates and they can have them made up. All Bob has to do is charge a little for template materials, artistic labor and S&H. Thus, miminal effort, and some traveling money for retirement trips as a result.

 

[IslandTractor]

In reviewing this thread for ideas it occurs to me that there are really two distinct design philosophies for skid plates. One, as represented by Ranch and Wallace is made for full bore, go anywhere without looking, commercial type tractor use. The other, like Bob's, is more limited and really designed more for adding a level of protection against unseen branches and small stumps that might snag the relatively delicate items hanging off the bottom of the tractor such as filters, linkages, hydraulic and electrical lines and connectors and other family jewels. The first commercial type looks like it would be effective against an IED so it enables the tractor to bull its way into brush without loss of time navigating around obstacles. The more limited version functions more like an athletic cup, just protect the delicate dangling bits from unintended contact. I'm thinking more along the lines of building my tractor a jock strap with cup. I'll try to steer away from obstacles (never probe for enemy with your cojones!) and will work around them if I can see them but want protection from that unexpected snap back of a branch or small stump.

The other issue I am pondering is how to attach the plates and whether to build in filter access holes (as Bob did) or just plan to remove the plate for filter changes (once every couple hundred hours for HST is not such a burden and I don't think a plate is needed to protect the area near the oil filter (but that is from memory only)). Attachment via drilling through the "frame" under the operator station is clearly the simpliest way to go. The alternative might be to weld either studs or the mounting brackets to the frame and then use bolts/nuts to attach the plates. Living in areas with salted roads I worry a bit about drilling holes in frames but realistically as my use is on land not highways that is probably unwarranted. It would also greatly complicate installation if one needs to do precision welding under the tractor to weld either studs or angle iron to the frame. The more I think about it the more I believe Bob's approach is the efficient and reasonable way to go.

Another consideration, perhaps a bit over reaching, is whether to use the skid plates as extra low ballast and therefore use heavier steel rather than minimal gauge. Probably not practical but it does seem a good place to have some extra weight.

In looking at Bob's plates more carefully I see that there really are no difficult bends and that there are some angled cuts that would be easier with plasma or torch than with a steel saw or grinder. It also seems that he has used 3/16" steel which should not be hard to bend with a press but which would certainly be strong enough to protect and deflect wayward branches and cut sapling stumps. I had been thinking of 0.125 or even just 12 gauge to protect the area on the left side where the electrical connectors are vulnerable to being snagged. I suspect 12g would be adequate for the hydraulic connectors too but the filter area may deserve heavier sheet. I guess it really boils down to whether I am trying to deflect bendy objects or stop a rigid object like a bigger stump. I'm leaning towards the former as those are the things you often don't see when working in brush and those are the things that are not caught by the grapple or bucket because they yield and are bend down while you pass over them. In my four seasons of ownership I have disconnected the electrical fittings twice and knocked the hydraulic connectors for the FEL off once. My HST filter is, thankfully, still unbruised. I'm leaning towards lighter duty right now but maybe 0.125 is a reasonable compromise along with some stout angle iron through bolted to the frame. I'm also leaning towards just unbolting the guard when doing filter changes.

I look forward to hearing more from Bob when he returns to see how he would do it the next time.

 

[murphy1244]

I agree about the filter hole. Figure just tap the frame for hardware and remove when needed use the KISS rule.

 

[IslandTractor]

I agree about the filter hole. Figure just tap the frame for hardware and remove when needed use the KISS rule.

Interesting that you say tap the frame. I was thinking the frame was probably hollow so would be through bolted but if it is solid then yes, tapping would be the appropriate way to go (that also lowers my concern about rust). I am not near my tractor to check but I suspect you are correct it is solid.

 

[Kioti Tom]

Island Tractor has made some valid points. I believe most of the tractor operators on here are of the second type. They need something to prevent the snagging and battering that will happen no matter how careful you are. Bob's skid plate takes care of that problem fairly well.

Now, as for the ones used commercially, like contractors, landscapers, etc, where you havve a number of drivers who really don't care about being careful, (IT's example #1) then, they are the tractors that need the heavier skidplate installed.

Me, I may or may not. If I get back into the Custom brush hogging again in my retirement, Then I will definately consider it a necessity.
Good thread going here.

Tom

 

[Coyote machine]

I like the idea of keeping this endeavor simple as possible for install and removal. I too have some concerns about drilling holes in the frame, especially if it turns out is it hollow and not solid. It occurs to me avoiding drilling through anything except the actual plates might accomplish a numbers of solutions, assuming there is enough clearance to allow a U-bolt type of attachment to the frame member(s). Stainless hardware could be used to mitigate rust issues with the U-bolts and a Nylock type nut could be used to reduce need for replacing lost fasteners, etc.
A U-bolt could come up under the frame member, for instance, and then be bolted to the top of the plate, reducing the chance of the nuts being damaged by rocks, stumps and the like. Access holes for filter removal could be accomplished too with little effort, as needed.

The electrical grid under the tractor floor made me cringe when I saw it the other day. What a catastrophe waiting to happen! I think of the time last fall I got the entire DK-40 stuck with the Brushbull on the rear, and in my stream bed no less! I was concerned about water getting into the gearcases or transmission; had I known the brain was hung from the undercarriage I would have not waited to the next day to pull it out of the ditch. I had to pull her out with a DK-55 and still had to drop the Brushbull before it would budge!:confused2:
Anyway I'd like to see something to enclose the entire connector array and possibly isolate it from invaders like mice, and especially water; just in case I decide to use it as a substitute for my boat again. This area might be able to be just a box that fit over everything and had a neoprene gasket to seal out water/weather.
That's it for now.

 

[IslandTractor]

:
Anyway I'd like to see something to enclose the entire connector array and possibly isolate it from invaders like mice, and especially water; just in case I decide to use it as a substitute for my boat again. This area might be able to be just a box that fit over everything and had a neoprene gasket to seal out water/weather.
That's it for now.

It would be pretty much impossible to make that area waterproof. If you wanted to try the best way would probably be to use the heat shrink tubing over the connectors. I don't take mine on water park rides like you do so I haven't worried about anything but snags.

 

[Coyote machine]

It would be pretty much impossible to make that area waterproof. If you wanted to try the best way would probably be to use the heat shrink tubing over the connectors. I don't take mine on water park rides like you do so I haven't worried about anything but snags.

Difficult, yes, impossible, not so much. If the connectors were smaller heat shrink tubing would work, but along that line of thinking is something like Grace Ice and Water Shield waterproof self sealing membrane for roofing underlayment. It might be able to be used over a shrink wrap plastic to encase the assembly which would allow removal when necessary by cutting the Grace product 'overcoat' and exposing the underlying shrinkwrap and then permitting access to the connectors and wiring. I picture something like a two part box and lid with a neoprene seal,(gasket) which would keep water/moisture out. This idea would be more difficult to implement, but depending on what is already on the market something might be able to be adapted. For instance waterproof electrical boxes, with removable gasketed tops are readily available in various sizes, for but one example. Harness entry/exit from the box could be as simple as cutting holes in the box and sealing on the inside with waterproof silicone or similar. Top attaches from the underside and screws into the boxes housing with gasketed screws. These type boxes are used in septic pump stations every day.

 

[IslandTractor]

Difficult, yes, impossible, not so much. If the connectors were smaller heat shrink tubing would work, but along that line of thinking is something like Grace Ice and Water Shield waterproof self sealing membrane for roofing underlayment. It might be able to be used over a shrink wrap plastic to encase the assembly which would allow removal when necessary by cutting the Grace product 'overcoat' and exposing the underlying shrinkwrap and then permitting access to the connectors and wiring. I picture something like a two part box and lid with a neoprene seal,(gasket) which would keep water/moisture out. This idea would be more difficult to implement, but depending on what is already on the market something might be able to be adapted. For instance waterproof electrical boxes, with removable gasketed tops are readily available in various sizes, for but one example. Harness entry/exit from the box could be as simple as cutting holes in the box and sealing on the inside with waterproof silicone or similar. Top attaches from the underside and screws into the boxes housing with gasketed screws. These type boxes are used in septic pump stations every day.

Easier to just kick your tractor swimming team practices!