DK 45 50 hour service

[RJJR]

Good afternoon folks,
A couple of questions on the first 50 hour service of my DK45. I'm understanding I need to change the oil and filter,hydraulic fluid and filter and the front axle fluid. Is this correct? Next, am I looking at any potential warranty issues if I change these myself? Finally, where do you folks get your fluids, from the dealer, online etc? Any lessons learned to keep me from making a mess would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
RJ

 

[ritcheyvs]

Check the table in section 6 of the owners' manual. You also need to grease all the zerk fittings and check torque on the wheel bolts and especially loader attach bolts. Some have reported the hydro oil filter was hard to remove the first time (painted on?). Make sure you drain both of the oil drain screws under the engine. You'll want t wide drain pan for the engine oil, especially if it's windy. The hydro system holds 10 gallons so you'll need to do it in stages or have a big container. I haven't done the hydro oil yet but I'll probably just get the good stuff at tractor supply. I use Mobile 1 (15W50 or 0W40 in all my diesel engines, usually from Walmart when they have it on the shelf. Maybe you cabn get engine oil filters from NAPA, but I'd go to a dealer (local or mail order) for filters.

The manuals for my 2006 DK45S failed to show the location of several grease fittings (front wheel gearboxes, aft pivot, and draft control), but the newer manuals are much better. If you see a zerk fitting, give it three shots.

If your machine id muddy/dirty, this is a good time to give it a bath first so you can see what you're doing.

 

[IndyIan]

Good afternoon folks,
A couple of questions on the first 50 hour service of my DK45. I'm understanding I need to change the oil and filter,hydraulic fluid and filter and the front axle fluid. Is this correct? Next, am I looking at any potential warranty issues if I change these myself? Finally, where do you folks get your fluids, from the dealer, online etc? Any lessons learned to keep me from making a mess would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
RJ

Also the two rear final drive sections need to be drained as well, but they aren't mentioned in the manual.
I got my filters at my dealer, and then my local TSC store had shell spirax hyd/tractor fluid on sale so I bought that months in advance. I kept all my receipts, and wrote on them which service they were for.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Interesting. My older (2006) DK45S doesn't have a final drive section; the rear axle goes straight into the differential. I guess this highlights the importance of using the right tech data for your particular tractor.

 

[grsthegreat]

my 2011 dk45 hst has the rear driveline drains....and they left that little mention out of the manual.

the bolts are painted yellow though...so hard to miss.

i bought a package of filters good thru the 400 hour service from my dealer.... stocked on my own shelf.

I am not using synthetic oil myself, seeing as its changed so often . I only have 170 hrs on mine. The 50 hr hydraulic oil change sure felt like a waste...all that clean oil being tossed out... but better safe than sorry.

The manual states what kinds of fluids can be used. I contacted Kioti corporate about changing stuff myself. There is NO problem with it...but KEEP all your receipts AND mark the hours on all receipts. I buy the oil when i need it so the receipt is dated correctly.

 

[murphy1244]

my 2011 dk45 hst has the rear driveline drains....and they left that little mention out of the manual
How do you know what and how much oil goes there.?

 

[IndyIan]

my 2011 dk45 hst has the rear driveline drains....and they left that little mention out of the manual
How do you know what and how much oil goes there.?

They are filled with the rest of the trans and hyd. system through the back of the tractor.
I used a 55 gallon plastic food barrel and cut one end off so I could slide it under the rear hitch, maybe 11" high? But I could still reach the plugs with a wrench.
Anyways all the hyd fluids went in it at once, plus I could drain both final drives into it at once as well. I borrowed a set of chain vice grips for the filters which worked well too. I should be able to remove them by hand next time.

 

[ecruzin]

I am doing the 50 Hour service on my DK45SE this week. I bought the factory filters and hydralic fluid from my local dealer. According to their service department you only need to change the hydralic filters and not the fluid at 50 hours. I believe the fluid calls for replacement at 200 hours. The owners manual is unclear on this as it says to change the fluid on one page and then to change the filters only on another. I bought a gallon of New Holland hydralic fluid from them (at their recommendation) to top up the fluid after changing the filters. I will also be using Rotella 15-40 engine oil and 80-90 GL5 for the front axle. I may change over to synthetic engine oil later but prefer to stay with "dino" oil untill the engine is fully broken in.

 

[RJJR]

I am doing the 50 Hour service on my DK45SE this week. I bought the factory filters and hydralic fluid from my local dealer. According to their service department you only need to change the hydralic filters and not the fluid at 50 hours. I believe the fluid calls for replacement at 200 hours. The owners manual is unclear on this as it says to change the fluid on one page and then to change the filters only on another. I bought a gallon of New Holland hydralic fluid from them (at their recommendation) to top up the fluid after changing the filters. I will also be using Rotella 15-40 engine oil and 80-90 GL5 for the front axle. I may change over to synthetic engine oil later but prefer to stay with "dino" oil untill the engine is fully broken in.

I wish the information was more clear for all. My dealer told me the opposite. Said they recommend changing all fluids at 50 hours. I emailed kioti to ask if there would be any warranty problems if I change my own oils and they did not answer. Said to contact my dealer for questions which leads us back to the problem of conflicting information.

 

[tpulley]

Unless a claim is specifically defined then it isn't allowable. Meaning if Kioti specified that all service work would have to be done by dealers (Mercedes used to detail their warranty this this way, not sure about now though) then it would be a condition of the warranty.

The way it is written it should not matter as long as the service is performed.


Other than about braking my hands on the filters that are welded (so it felt like) on the rest isn;t so bad. Any average guy who can change oil in their cars can do it.

You gotta love those colored plugs too. Helps you keep up with things.

 

[Buppies]

One of the our local repair shops that specializes in all hydro type repairs on large and small equipment said to drain all fluid and to be sure to add fluid to filters before installing them. Dirt and metal shavings will destroy the pumps and air getting into the system is hard on the pumps as well. The fluid is way cheaper than the repair. :thumbsup:

 

[IndyIan]

I am doing the 50 Hour service on my DK45SE this week. I bought the factory filters and hydralic fluid from my local dealer. According to their service department you only need to change the hydralic filters and not the fluid at 50 hours. I believe the fluid calls for replacement at 200 hours. The owners manual is unclear on this as it says to change the fluid on one page and then to change the filters only on another. I bought a gallon of New Holland hydralic fluid from them (at their recommendation) to top up the fluid after changing the filters. I will also be using Rotella 15-40 engine oil and 80-90 GL5 for the front axle. I may change over to synthetic engine oil later but prefer to stay with "dino" oil untill the engine is fully broken in.

I think if you are confident you local dealer will be around to put in warranty claims for you, then just do what they say. They will tell Kioti what they want to hear to get your work approved. If you're not so confident then change the fluids, document your work, and keep your warranty with any dealer.
The dealer I bought from says to change the fluid so I did. The next dealer over says its not needed and a waste of fluid, which it probably is, but for the cost of 2 pails of tractor fluid, why jeopardize a $20k tractor warranty?

 

[kiotiken]

I think if you are confident you local dealer will be around to put in warranty claims for you, then just do what they say. They will tell Kioti what they want to hear to get your work approved. If you're not so confident then change the fluids, document your work, and keep your warranty with any dealer.
The dealer I bought from says to change the fluid so I did. The next dealer over says its not needed and a waste of fluid, which it probably is, but for the cost of 2 pails of tractor fluid, why jeopardize a $20k tractor warranty?

That's a good point, dealers have a lot of "leeway" when it comes to getting work approved under warranty.

One of the things that I found amazing was the amount of metal filings that came out on the magnetic drain bolts during the 50hr service. My dealer came to my house to do the service and teach me how to do it (included in the purchase of the tractor) and he said it was a small amount of shavings and he's seen much worse with other brands. Without removing the drain plugs and draining the oil, you can't get all those filings out, so for me, needed or not for warranty, I'm glad it's done.

 

[CJONE]

That's a good point, dealers have a lot of "leeway" when it comes to getting work approved under warranty.

One of the things that I found amazing was the amount of metal filings that came out on the magnetic drain bolts during the 50hr service. My dealer came to my house to do the service and teach me how to do it (included in the purchase of the tractor) and he said it was a small amount of shavings and he's seen much worse with other brands. Without removing the drain plugs and draining the oil, you can't get all those filings out, so for me, needed or not for warranty, I'm glad it's done.

That IMHO is key at the 50 hour service. Also you are removing any of the assembly lube, casting sand and anything else that was in there at the time of build up. If you find a abnormal amount of steel in any of the drain areas that points to a problem also. I changed my engine oil at 20 hours just because of this reason. Peace of mind for me. CJ

 

[grsthegreat]

OK..to be clear. I emailed Kioti corporate and got the definitive answer.


ALL hydraulic fluid is to be drained and replaced at 50 hours. this is to allow the removal of any foreign matter /// metal bits... etc that entered the system at time of manufacturing.


I have the 2011 dk45hst manual in front of me. On page 7-4 it shows that all transmission fluid is to be changes at 50 hours, then at 400 hours, 800 hours, etc

the HST filter and tranny filter need to be replaced at 50 hours, 200 hours, 400, 600, etc

 

[seacap04]

I bought my tractor used with 600 hrs. I changed all fluids and filters so I would know what was in it. I cut all filters open so that I could see if I had any issues. I own work boats with heavy duty hydraulic systems. Filtration is the most important. I may install a 300 gal, 250 hp bow thruster system in a boat. I will filter the oil for 24 hrs before start up. I will change filters after about 50 hrs. I will not change oil because it has been filtered to at least 10 microns. If I change oil I have to start the process all over again. Now with the small hydraulic systems on these tractors, if they live outdoors with large temp differences, you have to watch condensation. If your fluid is yellow and milky looking, change it. Water does not lubricate. If your tractor oniy experences 20 to 30 degree temp range in a fairly dry cilmate I would only change filters at the 50 hour mark.

 

[CJONE]

I bought my tractor used with 600 hrs. I changed all fluids and filters so I would know what was in it. I cut all filters open so that I could see if I had any issues. I own work boats with heavy duty hydraulic systems. Filtration is the most important. I may install a 300 gal, 250 hp bow thruster system in a boat. I will filter the oil for 24 hrs before start up. I will change filters after about 50 hrs. I will not change oil because it has been filtered to at least 10 microns. If I change oil I have to start the process all over again. Now with the small hydraulic systems on these tractors, if they live outdoors with large temp differences, you have to watch condensation. If your fluid is yellow and milky looking, change it. Water does not lubricate. If your tractor oniy experences 20 to 30 degree temp range in a fairly dry cilmate I would only change filters at the 50 hour mark.

Everybody looks at me like I am from outer space when I tell them to filter new oil for a hydrostatic system. We even filter new oil for a gear system. CJ

 

[IndyIan]

Everybody looks at me like I am from outer space when I tell them to filter new oil for a hydrostatic system. We even filter new oil for a gear system. CJ

Aren't the filters on the machinery spec'd to get any particles large enough to matter? I can't imagine that what you get out of new oil is significant compared to all the stuff in the old oil that didn't drain out? All the particles in the residual oil are smaller than the machinerys filter will take out as well?
I could see if the HST had its own fluid and resevoir, but on a tractor I think the wear materials from the gears is the main source of particles, not new oil.

 

[CJONE]

Aren't the filters on the machinery spec'd to get any particles large enough to matter? I can't imagine that what you get out of new oil is significant compared to all the stuff in the old oil that didn't drain out? All the particles in the residual oil are smaller than the machinerys filter will take out as well?
I could see if the HST had its own fluid and resevoir, but on a tractor I think the wear materials from the gears is the main source of particles, not new oil.

To make a long story short, dirt is dirt. ANY and I mean any dirt in a hydrostat is a BAD thing. Why take the chance. I had 2 customers destroy 2 pumps and 1 motor because of dirt/particles and intake problems. These are not small units 25 series Sundstrands at about 10k a piece. 1 customer did it 2 times before he listened. 1 unit did not make it 20 minutes. The nice thing on our tractors is the fluid is pulled through a filter then pushed through another filter into the Hydrostat. So what really matters in if any work is performed on the system or oil is introduced past the filters HAS to be FILTERED or lines HAVE to be spotless. Look in the bottom of buckets of oil or barrels you will see dirt and particles. If you have the means what does it hurt to put filtered oil in the res. CJ

 

[murphy1244]

To make a long story short, dirt is dirt. ANY and I mean any dirt in a hydrostat is a BAD thing. Why take the chance. I had 2 customers destroy 2 pumps and 1 motor because of dirt/particles and intake problems. These are not small units 25 series Sundstrands at about 10k a piece. 1 customer did it 2 times before he listened. 1 unit did not make it 20 minutes. The nice thing on our tractors is the fluid is pulled through a filter then pushed through another filter into the Hydrostat. So what really matters in if any work is performed on the system or oil is introduced past the filters HAS to be FILTERED or lines HAVE to be spotless. Look in the bottom of buckets of oil or barrels you will see dirt and particles. If you have the means what does it hurt to put filtered oil in the res. CJ

I work on Hydraulic presses and we always prefilter the oil.