CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler

   / CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler #1  
Sraczi

Sraczi

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
31
Rebuilding a JD24T baler. Would like to run SLOWLY and STEADY on FLAT ground with my 2008 CK25HST (300 hrs).

Have done lots of reading. By the looks of it, I am only a little crazy.... BUT, not completely nuts as long as I do not push it (PTO @ 20hp, tractor weight w/ loader @ 3600lbs).

Your thoughts?
 
   / CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Well, "they" said it couldn't be done... They were wrong! Test baled with the CK25HST... No rocking, and plenty of power on LOW gear.

I know... The real test will be on the field (later this week). Slow and steady..
 

Attachments

  • image-3613791584.jpg
    image-3613791584.jpg
    727.9 KB · Views: 341
   / CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler #3  
Sraczi,

That is AWESOME!!! Congrats on the hard work and I hope it works flawlessly for you!!!:cool2:

Pls post some action shots??!!:thumbsup:
 
   / CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Video coming next week. Big thanks to Zz for his numerous blogs & advice!
 
   / CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler
  • Thread Starter
#5  
20hp @ the PTO and weighs in at ~3700lbs. No real rocking action and baled 120 easy bales.

Not sure why so many posts don't advise this with smaller tractors - Kioti CK25HST handled it a-ok. Video soon to be posted on YouTube!
 

Attachments

  • image-274903547.jpg
    image-274903547.jpg
    714.7 KB · Views: 256
  • image-4283308010.jpg
    image-4283308010.jpg
    612.3 KB · Views: 232
   / CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler #6  
Sraczi said:
20hp @ the PTO and weighs in at ~3700lbs. No real rocking action and baled 120 easy bales.

Not sure why so many posts don't advise this with smaller tractors - Kioti CK25HST handled it a-ok. Video soon to be posted on YouTube!
Click to expand...

Your drawbar/hitch looks a bit low. The implement tongue is usually designed to be level (horizontal). Is it because the drawbar has an offset in it and the hitch pin would hit the pto shaft?

I'd be concerned that the hitch would dig into theground if you hit a plow furrow or an animal hole. Keep the cutoff knives sharp, the hitch tight using a large enough pin and be wary of clumps in the windrows. Also check the needle stop springs to make sure they are clear of hay chaff, mud, and anything else that can get stuck in there. I use a leaf blower or air hose nozzle to clean the knotter bay after every use. That exposes any loose or weak parts to a watchful eye.

Fun, isn't it? If your baler has a wagon hitch, try attaching a small trailer or wagon onto the back. Good excuse to get Mom or the kids involved, especially if they benefit from the hay production.
 
   / CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Zz- Thanks for the great advice. Will look into it this weekend. Made sure the hitch pin was size-on-size but you're right, hitch did drag a bit.

Here's the YouTube video. The hay was haybined by my neighbor so I made 2 passes for each windrow. And yes, that is a mask (darn seasonal asthma ain't stopping me!).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naJYCvV98y8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
   / CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler #9  
did you rake the windrows or is that how the moco left it?
 
   / CK25HST w/ JD 24T baler
  • Thread Starter
#10  
My neighbor disc/haybined the field. The windrows were too wide for the baler so I had to make 2 passes. Next cut (hopefully), I'll sickle mow (MF 6') then probably 3-wheel rake (need to buy now) to a better windrow height/width.

The reason it took longer in the video for a bale is the 2nd pass had a tiny windrow.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
 

Footer Links 1

Top