Oil & Fuel On my way to 100

[murphy1244]

$180 for the service, including oil and filters- I'll have to see the bill to see what the breakdown is, and $500 fo parts and labor to add the 2nd set of rear remotes.

Here's what my dealer wants,
Here's the price for the rear remote:

322014 - Conversion Valve Kit - Single to Double, installed is $500 + tax. I will need to order one if you want it.

The 50 hour service is done here at our location, so you'll have $100 + tax for pick-up and delivery. The labor and shop supplies is $283 + tax. The oil filters, oils and fuel filter run $97.92. Total service is $480.92 + tax. The price would be less if we use the filters you already have on hand.

Let me know - thanks

 

[k0ua]

$180 for the service, including oil and filters- I'll have to see the bill to see what the breakdown is, and $500 fo parts and labor to add the 2nd set of rear remotes.

Oh heck.. no wonder you are having them do it.. I spent $216 on 15 gallons of Mobilfluid 424, and used maybe 12 gallons.( I filled the front diffy with that too). the Hydro filter was 87 dollars.. and I am not kidding.. I don't know what the engine oil filter costs. but I see them on e-bay for about 12 bucks.. I used rotella from wal mart. I already had it. and the Hydraulic filter (the horrible thing) I don't know what it costs. so for $180 for everything.. Heck yes. go for it. They quoted me 450 for the second set of remotes. I did not do it .. I probably should have.. I probably should have let them service the 50 hour too:ashamed: But I did not get a quote on that. Oh well I need to think of it not as a job.. it was an Adventure!
Oh the reason I don't know what some of those filters cost is they gave me everything but the little hi dollar hydro filter when I signed the papers.
James K0UA

 

[phiferpharm]

Here's what my dealer wants,
Here's the price for the rear remote:

322014 - Conversion Valve Kit - Single to Double, installed is $500 + tax. I will need to order one if you want it.

The 50 hour service is done here at our location, so you'll have $100 + tax for pick-up and delivery. The labor and shop supplies is $283 + tax. The oil filters, oils and fuel filter run $97.92. Total service is $480.92 + tax. The price would be less if we use the filters you already have on hand.

Let me know - thanks

Well, I guess my thoughts that the price he is charging is reasonable is on target. I do have to deliver and decided to rent a trailer to take the tractor to him. He offered to let me use their trailer, but it's a 90 minute drive to their shop and would require me to go get it/take it back and be three round-trips.

I can rent the trailer from SunBelt for $65 per day and the dealer said they can knock it out in one day. Even if it takes two, I think I'm ahead on gas usage alone. I'll just leave the trailer at the shop if I have to go back a second day and won't be lugging the trailer back and forth empty.

After seeing your post KOua, I think I better be sure they aren't leaving anything out (like hydo filter) just to be sure.

 

[krazsk]

i added the second remote to the DK50se. I cussed a lot, took me most of the afternoon, cussing the locktite on the studs on the valve assembly, but the trick that I took too long to figure out was to take off the plastic access panel. I am an idiot. 3 hours of cussing before I figured that out. I believe the kit was like $320 list, on sale for like $280. There is nothing magic about putting on the second set of remotes. I wouldn't consider paying the dealer $220, now that I know to take off the plastic access cover. Depends on how handy you feel.

 

[krazsk]

the 50 hour service prices here seem too low to include the hydro fluid change.

 

[Coyote machine]

Yes a good chain wrench would probably have worked for me, but I did not have one. Well I did get it off. It should be easier from now on. By the way the schedule in the manual leaves a lot to be desired.. I interpret it that at 100 hours and every 100 hours thereafter I need engine oil and filter. and hydraulic and hydrostat filters at 200 and every 200 thereafter, and at 400 change the hydraulic fluid and front diff. fluid and every 400 thereafter.. is that the way you see it?

James K0UA

A qualified yes on that. Yes to changing the filters at the books stated intervals, UNLESS one uses synthetic oil, like I do for the engine, then longer intervals could be used. I've got over 450 hours on my current DK-40 and have NEVER changed the hydraulic fluid, only the filters and front diff fluid at 400hrs. The hydraulic fluid is in a closed system and does not see much to contaminate it like engine oil which injests air, thus dirt. Unless the stick shows something unusual like weasel piss color then it stays and maybe goes at 600hrs or 800, or never, time will tell.
I will change the coolant at about 2 years or when it looks tired. I always change the filters at the recommended intervals.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Also when crawling around under the tractor, I found a huge rats nest on top of the transmission all intertwined with the range selector linkage and electrical wires.. That was fun to remove.. the folding pocketknife shows the scale.

James K0UA

James,

I had a mouse nest on top of the gas tank, they striped one fuel gauge wire bare. I had a birds nest up under the left rear wheel way up in the corner of the fender.

I need to go look on top of the transmission now it seems...

I tried the dryer sheet trick and so far so good. Prolly time to put new ones in...

I still need to do the front axle :ashamed:.

To get the tight filter off, I bought a channel lock style filter wrench and ate my wheaties that day...

David

 

[k0ua]

James,

I had a mouse nest on top of the gas tank, they striped one fuel gauge wire bare. I had a birds nest up under the left rear wheel way up in the corner of the fender.

I need to go look on top of the transmission now it seems...

I tried the dryer sheet trick and so far so good. Prolly time to put new ones in...

I still need to do the front axle :ashamed:.

To get the tight filter off, I bought a channel lock style filter wrench and ate my wheaties that day...

David

The front axle was a piece of cake.. just the 2 little plugs drained into an old aluminum pan and I cut a funnel to stick in the filler hole tightly. I used a 1 gallon jug to pour in the fluid, and had the wife stationed to watch the sight glass on the other side of the tractor. There was a "delayed reaction" for the fluid to travel to that side so pour slowly.

James K0UA

 

[MossflowerWoods]

The front axle was a piece of cake.. just the 2 little plugs drained into an old aluminum pan and I cut a funnel to stick in the filler hole tightly. I used a 1 gallon jug to pour in the fluid, and had the wife stationed to watch the sight glass on the other side of the tractor. There was a "delayed reaction" for the fluid to travel to that side so pour slowly.

James K0UA

It is not because it is hard I have not done it... It is because I am a knucklehead and I just forget. Now it os close to 100 hours so I figure, I will just do it then (and closer to "On-Time"). :laughing:

David

 

[boomer613]

I've got over 450 hours on my current DK-40 and have NEVER changed the hydraulic fluid, only the filters and front diff fluid at 400hrs. The hydraulic fluid is in a closed system and does not see much to contaminate it like engine oil which injests air, thus dirt. Unless the stick shows something unusual like weasel piss color then it stays and maybe goes at 600hrs or 800, or never, time will tell.
I will change the coolant at about 2 years or when it looks tired. I always change the filters at the recommended intervals.

This is where I am confused. Some places in the manual it says only to change the hydraulic filter at the 50 hr mark and in another place it seems to say to change both the filter and oil. Which is correct?