Thats really bad considering if it got stuck in full open position instead of full off position someone could have been hurt really bad. After talking to Kioti customer service person today and expressing unhappiness because of no recall if it is a bad ip, she just replied they don't do recalls. I don't understand how this can be.
Oil & Fuel dk45s injector pump problems at 500 hrs
- Thread starter sherrym
- Start date
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
I do wish the Kioti's had a manual stop lever attached to the stop solenoid, for a safety stop in case rack ever froze open. I would assume that if you remove stop solenoid completely and feel if the rack is moving, than the IP isn't at fault. It could be a bad stop solenoid (SS)also. Theres also a relay that controls the stop SS that could be at fault.
With the SS removed, if the rack moves in and out (its forced open with a spring) you can try starting the tractor, but you would have to manually shut it down by manually plunging the SS. The mechanic i worked with did this to check the tractor he was working with.
With the SS removed, if the rack moves in and out (its forced open with a spring) you can try starting the tractor, but you would have to manually shut it down by manually plunging the SS. The mechanic i worked with did this to check the tractor he was working with.
grsthegreat,
on first visit to dealer i discussed possibly the SS or relay being bad. He told me to feel and listen for click when tractor key in on position. Heard and felt very clear click at metal end of SS, so relay and SS were ruled out by dealer mechanic. Also wondering about injection pump removal instruction that say to remove idle adjusting bolt and other post with this problem say new pump is a plug in type with no timing involved just make sure the pump shims are put back the same as removed. You said you removed your pump do you remember anything about these two steps?
thanks
on first visit to dealer i discussed possibly the SS or relay being bad. He told me to feel and listen for click when tractor key in on position. Heard and felt very clear click at metal end of SS, so relay and SS were ruled out by dealer mechanic. Also wondering about injection pump removal instruction that say to remove idle adjusting bolt and other post with this problem say new pump is a plug in type with no timing involved just make sure the pump shims are put back the same as removed. You said you removed your pump do you remember anything about these two steps?
thanks
Also there is a manual stop lever cover that is removed when removing pump. At least that is what instructions for ck35 says. However there is no cable attached to it that goes to the front of tractor for emergency shutoff.
Scott,
thanks so much the chapter on engine should really be helpfu. I also saw pics of broken teeth/gears on ip. so if turned 180 degrees the bad side never comes around again? Looks like it only turns enough for that small opening to line up for fuel. The only problem I still have is what caused teeth to break if mine are broke? if bad material/design then looks like the other side could break later and maybe this time in wide open, not good. But if stop selenoid is violently slamming rack like I read in another post then should fix that also or that could also happen again. Wish mechanics/dealers that have fixed a lot of these would have idea as to what is causing the problem. When a part cost that much you want to get it right. Also would like to hear if new pumps from kioti have been tested long enough (number of hours) to see if new pumps have overcome this problem.
From the post I have read there seems to be three schools of thought.
1. bad fuel or low sulfur (not enough lubricant) fuel the problem.
2. bad material/design of pump especially the gears/teeth
3. relay slamming stop selenoid violently and causing rack in pump to jam.
I have ruled out bad fuel for now because same supplier for six years and two other tractors are fine.
Have you heard of any other causes for this problem other than some debris entered the pump?
I mentioned to other reply that checked stop selenoid (SS) for click when key in on position. There was a very clear click heard and felt at metal end of SS so ruled out relay and SS. But when found other post on this site talk about relay causing SS to violently slam rack not so sure now and not sure how to check for that.
Will try to read engine chaper in entirty. Found injection pump removal instruction for ck35 (assume would be same for dk45s) on another post and am concerned about instruction to remove the idle adjusting bolt. Also the removal instruction only say to put pump shimms back the same as taken off for timing purposes. No other instructions for timing. Do you know anything about these two steps of instruction?
thanks
so relay and SS
thanks so much the chapter on engine should really be helpfu. I also saw pics of broken teeth/gears on ip. so if turned 180 degrees the bad side never comes around again? Looks like it only turns enough for that small opening to line up for fuel. The only problem I still have is what caused teeth to break if mine are broke? if bad material/design then looks like the other side could break later and maybe this time in wide open, not good. But if stop selenoid is violently slamming rack like I read in another post then should fix that also or that could also happen again. Wish mechanics/dealers that have fixed a lot of these would have idea as to what is causing the problem. When a part cost that much you want to get it right. Also would like to hear if new pumps from kioti have been tested long enough (number of hours) to see if new pumps have overcome this problem.
From the post I have read there seems to be three schools of thought.
1. bad fuel or low sulfur (not enough lubricant) fuel the problem.
2. bad material/design of pump especially the gears/teeth
3. relay slamming stop selenoid violently and causing rack in pump to jam.
I have ruled out bad fuel for now because same supplier for six years and two other tractors are fine.
Have you heard of any other causes for this problem other than some debris entered the pump?
I mentioned to other reply that checked stop selenoid (SS) for click when key in on position. There was a very clear click heard and felt at metal end of SS so ruled out relay and SS. But when found other post on this site talk about relay causing SS to violently slam rack not so sure now and not sure how to check for that.
Will try to read engine chaper in entirty. Found injection pump removal instruction for ck35 (assume would be same for dk45s) on another post and am concerned about instruction to remove the idle adjusting bolt. Also the removal instruction only say to put pump shimms back the same as taken off for timing purposes. No other instructions for timing. Do you know anything about these two steps of instruction?
thanks
so relay and SS
dennis52
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2011
- Messages
- 323
- Location
- Queensland Australia
- Tractor
- Kioti DS4510HS , Kubota B7100
It may be worth the one minute's time it takes to disconnect the solenoid , take it out and see if the engine starts. If it does push your finger into the now open casing to stop the engine. Also , in my Kioti ,there are two fuses that will disable the solenoid if either fuse is blown .
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
you know, i dont remember the mechanic doing anything to timing at all. he simply removed the old one and installed the new one. bled the system and it fired right up.
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
I realize the solenoid passed the "click" test but it looks like solenoid removal is one connector and two nuts (easy peazy) so I'd definitely check that before messing with the actual IP.
I just looked at my 2006 (serial number begins with F) DK45S which should be the same as yours. With the engine off (key removed) there is no resistance when I move the manual shutoff lever. However, if I switch the key on (like for pre-glow) I heal a loud click and I can feel a definite spring-like resistance when I move the manual shutoff. That's because the manual shutoff pushes the rack to the full off position (left) while the idle spring pushes the other way (right) trying to supply fuel to start the engine. If you don't fee a difference, switch off vs switch on, in the manual shutoff lever, then the rack is stuck in the off position. If it were me, I'd first remove the stop solenoid and the "solenoid guide (#21 in parts diagram) to make sure that's not the problem. I'm referring to this parts diagram: OEM Parts
If that doesn't work, I'd next remove the oil fill flange (#25) which, I believe, will give you access ti the rack pin. Then you can grasp the rack pin to feel if it's jammed, and possibly free it. It should be free to move with the stop solenoid removed. If it's jammed, the IP is suspect.
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