Loader FEL issues

[Alien]

Man, you're hard on tractors!

LOL. Tough country here. I am glad I didn't buy less of a tractor.

 

[Kioti Lee]

Thanks for the input.. things have "changed" a bit.. unbolted joint where leak was coming from and pushed it back straight into the o ring.. could feel it pop backin .. ran tractor for awhile moved bucket up/down was smooth.. turned off and let sit over some cardboard..returned half hour later,no leak :thumbsup:.. started tractor and went to test...up motion was very slow unless reving motor, would not keep going up when handle was all the way down(used keep going up even if not held down).. scooped up load of sand struggled to lift it, seemed to do better as I played with joystick.. but the more I used it the worse it got..now will not come up at all .. joystick seems to have a LOT of play in it. float still doesnt work...fluid level good, some air bubbles but way less than before.. do I need to bleed the air out or what to do next..I promise to watch more carefully for stumps

 

[Kioti Lee]

Once again my optimism and lack of patience have got the better of me. It still leaks, only harder to see, runs down different pipe before dripping. It is very close to lining up perfectily but am unsure of proper procedure to install o ring and line up all pieces. It is very similiar to the setup that VictorW directed me to expect for the flange connection is not on it and the tube with the O ring is secured to filter assembly with a bolt on the side

 

[VictorW]

I've never had that particular type of connection apart on mine to physically see what is there to be able to give you an idea of how to install the o-ring. Sometimes, I've seen with similar connections on other vehicles, there may be a small groove in the filter housing for the o-ring to fit into and other times, there is a raised ridge on the tube where the o-ring goes on up to the ridge and then the tube is pushed into the mating hole. It sounds like you still have a small leak causing the lessor amount of air bubbles in the oil which needs to be fixed. With no more leaks and when the tractor sits off, say overnight, the air should work it's way out of the oil in the sump area. You'll still have air in the oil, from the previous bubbled oil, in the lines and cylinders. It has no where to go until that oil gets to the sump area. With the leak fixed, start the tractor and if you run all the controls/fuctions full travel several times with no load/weight, that bubbled oil should work it's way to the sump where the air can escape. Not sure what happened to the joystick. Do you mean that the joystick moves easily before feeling tension that it's working the valves or do you have to move the joystick a lot before the loader moves? I assume the loader worked fine before, except for float, prior to the leaking line. I would think your joystick and valve block are OK. The leak needs to be fixed first, the get the air out of the oil, then hope the hydraulic pump is still OK. Hydraulic pumps don't like air but it doesn't seem like you ran it that long after the problem occurred.

 

[Kioti Lee]

Thanks for the input.. the joystick move freely without anything happening.. did notice before that it would not do two funtions at same time i.e. roll and go up .. but I rarely try to use that.. believe leak is stopped, set o ring in and compressed fitting back on abd bolted into place. bucket will come up once and then not again.. down and roll and 3 point all work fine.. no bubbles in fluid.

 

[VictorW]

Good that you have no bubbles in the hydro fliud. Hopefully the leak is fixed. Bucket going down is by it's own weight unless you're able to lift the front of the tractor off the ground with the fel. Empty bucket roll and empty 3pt arms doesn't take much hydro pressure to make them move. Being that you apparently had something hit the underside dislodging that line, check the line fittings on the valve block for the fel which should be under the right floorboard and while there, check the cables that come from the joystick to the valves in the valve block. They may also have suffered from the same object. If your lines have QDs, completely disconnect them and reconnect so you know they are together correctly. You can adjust the fel cables if you need to.