7 days is to long???
How cold has it been there.
My tractor can set for weeks at well below freezing and start, no problem.
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7 days is to long???
How cold has it been there.
My tractor can set for weeks at well below freezing and start, no problem.
Dude chill, I am half a century old and have been around equipment all my life, large and small, reared on a Dairy Farm (400 acres), worked in a family owned Underground Telephone Utility Company (did work for what once was Bell Telephone), a Gravel Washer Plant (sold to local County and others) and a Handyman service, so I think I know just a tad bit about what I am saying.
I did quote a battery FAQ site on the 2 quotes, which are started and ended correctly " ".
I digress, I think the subject got off on this thread, the OP was stating the tractor did not start on the first 3 attempts, and wondered why.
In hot weather, not cold. Theoretical not absolute.
It's not a criticism, just saying I have difficulty understanding what you're saying- sorry you had a bad accident.
Sorry to hear about your accident and you can tell from the sum of your posts on TBN you haven't let it hold you back any. For the record, I followed what you were saying from post #1, I only started doubting my interpretation when others started off on a scientific explanation of the inner working of batteries.
To address the original post, 7 days is not sitting too long or even very long at all. I've never had an issue starting my CK30 in -30 C temps, even if I didn't use the block heater (she let me know she didn't appreciate it much). So far, the coldest I've tried the DK45 is about -5C. It's -14C here today so I'll see how it does tonight. My 20 year old JD 955 refused to start on me a couple times in those temps, but a 30 min shot of the block heater got it going no problem.
Since it's working as expected now, I'd wait and see if it was a one off thing, but if it happened again, I'd call my dealer.
It could of been a old battery to begin with..
The other big battery killer is chronic undercharging. This could be a lose belt, short run times, heavy loads (like AC), etc.
IMO, anyone with a boat, tractor, or even an old car needs to have a multimeter in the tool box, and to learn how to do simple things with it (like check battery voltage). This doesn't need to be a fancy or expensive item; they have them at Walmart, Radio Shack, car parts places, or Harbor Freight (for all us cheap skates). For example: 7 Function Multimeter (even cheaper on sale).
GMtb42 asked: In red text
No need to Google anything- Was a dealer for interstate batteries for over ten years.... So how often did you rotate the stock because of shelf life deterioration?
My reply:
Didn't have to rotate stock, Interstate does it for their dealers based on code stamped into battery case. Therefore only fresh batteries are sold by their dealers.
Air-conditioning is a HUGE factor for CARS; not so much for tractors, unless cabbed with AC. Hmm HEAT, wow.
My reply: No, not heat as much as a heavy load, (draw) on the battery, as a result of running the AC.
Really so how do you add water to a sealed Maintenance free battery without destroying it? Or voiding warranty?
Drill holes in it?
My reply:
You could drill holes in it if you are intent on destroying the battery; or you could just pop the caps which are under the label and fill it to the split rings, like on any other wet cell battery. Your choice.
As others have stated, factors like high load, condition of the battery due to lack of prior maintenance, and possible defective cell(s), etc. can and do contribute to premature failure of batteries all year long, aside from heat and cold extremes.
My point is to inform folks here about what can be done to PROLONG battery life so the battery doesn't die an un-necessary early death when stressed by factors of cold and heat in ADDITION to the other factors which lead to an early demise. Properly maintained batteries can last for many many years without replacement, as many here can and do attest to.