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12-08-2012, 12:05 PM #21Silver Member
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Re: Block heater
Here's our 2 cents worth...
Daedong diesels are indirect injection diesels. In other words, preliminary fuel combustion takes place in the pre-combustion chamber in the head. The glow plugs fire directly in the pre-combustion chamber (800 degrees is 4 seconds). This is what helps the diesel combustion in cold temperatures. From our experience, a properly operating glow system will allow the tractors to start even in extreme teperatures. May take a couple glow cycles with the auto systems, but 99% of the time, the engine will start.
So..it's been our recommendation that if you want to assist the engine in cold weather, warm the oil. Since the glow system is there to heat up the pre-combustion chamber, warming the oil for circulation at cold start should be the focus on in-direct injection diesels. We have installed radiator and oil pan heaters when requested, we have not installed block heaters. Our hesitation with block heaters is the ability to "dry" the cylinder walls. By warming the block, the residual oil on the cyclinder walls warms and runs faster than it would cold. Block heaters may be the best solution for a direct injection diesel, it's been our position that it may not be for an in-direct injection diesel.
Just our approach.Michigan Iron and Equipment, LLC
www.michironandequip.com
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12-08-2012, 02:59 PM #22
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12-08-2012, 04:04 PM #23
Re: Block heater
The conventional wisdom in the old Mercedes Diesel community is that the main benefit of synthetic oil (like Mobile 1) is improved starting in cold weather because the synthetic oil flows better when cold. Most clatta-clatta drivers I know use synthetic oil in winter for that reason.
Scott
Kioti DK45S, KL451 loader, Howse 601S cutter, Phoenix M72S mower
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12-08-2012, 05:05 PM #24
Re: Block heater
Yes, the same concept as using Teflon in products like SLICK 50 before there were synthetic oils available- with the possible exception of Mobil 1.
What MIE states above makes sense, BUT if one uses synthetic oil COMBINED with a block heater the effect of the oil in the cylinder walls possibly being dried is less likely, IMHO. One wants oil coating the cylinder walls, especially on cold starts so the cylinder walls are NOT lacking lubrication during the critical seconds of start-up.
My understanding of dino-oils DIS-advantages at cold start is lack of ability to flow as easily as synthetic oils, which can/could result in cylinder wall damage as a result of the dino-oil getting to the area late, instead of early enough to pre-lubricate the walls for the piston/rings.2010 DK-40se/hst, Kioti KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 boxblade, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Mower, 72" Ratchet Rake. HLA Series 2000 7' snowplow, Aquiline MPC Rear chains. Diamondplate aluminum canopy. Fit Rite Top-N Tilt hydraulics.
Scag Wildcat: Kawasaki 26HP.
Bunch of STIHL chainsaws
: 011, MS192T, MS200T, MS180C, MS230, MS270(Wood Boss), 038 Farmboss (1986 Anniversary edition).
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12-08-2012, 09:59 PM #25
It's also my first winter with the tractor. My old massey ferguson need the block heater to start.
Originally Posted by Dingo Man
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12-08-2012, 10:03 PM #26
Never tried synthetic in anything i almost did in my land rover they said not to because once you use that in the engine you could never go back to oil.
Originally Posted by ritcheyvs
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12-08-2012, 10:09 PM #27Silver Member
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Re: Block heater
Use a radiator hose heater. That's where your heat comes from.
Just a note. On the SE Cab Tractors, it is REALLY tight to get the lower hose heater in. There is hardly enough room since the cab heater hose is spliced in where the radiator hose heater would normally be installed. We've gotten them in, it's just really tight. Look at the left side of the engine compartment, you'll see what we are talking about.Michigan Iron and Equipment, LLC
www.michironandequip.com
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12-09-2012, 01:10 AM #28
Re: Block heater
there is no way to install a lower radiator heater in my dk45 cab tractor. the hose is too short and has a 90 degree bend to boot.
currently own
2011 Kioti DK45SE HST CAB tractor/loader, Jimna 6" - 3 point wood chipper, 60" JD Brush Hog, JD 60" Rototiller, 3 point post hole digger with hydraulic assist, 3 point spring tooth rake, Fimco 55 gallon weed sprayer with 12 foot boom, 3 point hydraulic wood splitter (home built)
Quick Attach 79" loader mount snowblower & rear powerpack
Quick Attach 84" Snow Blade
Quick Attach 42" pallet forks
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12-09-2012, 09:36 AM #29
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12-09-2012, 02:32 PM #30
Re: Block heater
That's the thing about experience- it makes impossible looking jobs feasible!
It is possible as MIE and you have both stated- but not an easy job....
I still prefer the block heater over the rad hose heater- just my own preference, others may have different views on this subject.2010 DK-40se/hst, Kioti KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 boxblade, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Mower, 72" Ratchet Rake. HLA Series 2000 7' snowplow, Aquiline MPC Rear chains. Diamondplate aluminum canopy. Fit Rite Top-N Tilt hydraulics.
Scag Wildcat: Kawasaki 26HP.
Bunch of STIHL chainsaws
: 011, MS192T, MS200T, MS180C, MS230, MS270(Wood Boss), 038 Farmboss (1986 Anniversary edition).
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