Block heater

[MichiganIron]

Here's our 2 cents worth...
Daedong diesels are indirect injection diesels. In other words, preliminary fuel combustion takes place in the pre-combustion chamber in the head. The glow plugs fire directly in the pre-combustion chamber (800 degrees is 4 seconds). This is what helps the diesel combustion in cold temperatures. From our experience, a properly operating glow system will allow the tractors to start even in extreme teperatures. May take a couple glow cycles with the auto systems, but 99% of the time, the engine will start.

So..it's been our recommendation that if you want to assist the engine in cold weather, warm the oil. Since the glow system is there to heat up the pre-combustion chamber, warming the oil for circulation at cold start should be the focus on in-direct injection diesels. We have installed radiator and oil pan heaters when requested, we have not installed block heaters. Our hesitation with block heaters is the ability to "dry" the cylinder walls. By warming the block, the residual oil on the cyclinder walls warms and runs faster than it would cold. Block heaters may be the best solution for a direct injection diesel, it's been our position that it may not be for an in-direct injection diesel.

Just our approach.

 

[kiotiken]

Here's our 2 cents worth...

Very interesting, thanks for that. I didn't realize people were worried about the tractor starting, I just want it plugged in to get heat in the cab faster

 

[ritcheyvs]

The conventional wisdom in the old Mercedes Diesel community is that the main benefit of synthetic oil (like Mobile 1) is improved starting in cold weather because the synthetic oil flows better when cold. Most clatta-clatta drivers I know use synthetic oil in winter for that reason.

 

[Coyote machine]

The conventional wisdom in the old Mercedes Diesel community is that the main benefit of synthetic oil (like Mobile 1) is improved starting in cold weather because the synthetic oil flows better when cold. Most clatta-clatta drivers I know use synthetic oil in winter for that reason.

Yes, the same concept as using Teflon in products like SLICK 50 before there were synthetic oils available- with the possible exception of Mobil 1.
What MIE states above makes sense, BUT if one uses synthetic oil COMBINED with a block heater the effect of the oil in the cylinder walls possibly being dried is less likely, IMHO. One wants oil coating the cylinder walls, especially on cold starts so the cylinder walls are NOT lacking lubrication during the critical seconds of start-up.
My understanding of dino-oils DIS-advantages at cold start is lack of ability to flow as easily as synthetic oils, which can/could result in cylinder wall damage as a result of the dino-oil getting to the area late, instead of early enough to pre-lubricate the walls for the piston/rings.

 

[landedakioti]

Landed, for what it is worth I was told by Whittemores and Sons a heater for my DK40 was not needed. Chad told me " If your tractor does not fire right up even in really cold weather, they would come out and install a heater for free". This will be my first winter so we will see. One thing I did do at the suggestion of another member here, I bought some Howes Diesel Treat fuel treatment. You should look into it especially where we live. Tractor Supply carries it.

It's also my first winter with the tractor. My old massey ferguson need the block heater to start.

 

[landedakioti]

The conventional wisdom in the old Mercedes Diesel community is that the main benefit of synthetic oil (like Mobile 1) is improved starting in cold weather because the synthetic oil flows better when cold. Most clatta-clatta drivers I know use synthetic oil in winter for that reason.

Never tried synthetic in anything i almost did in my land rover they said not to because once you use that in the engine you could never go back to oil.

 

[MichiganIron]

Very interesting, thanks for that. I didn't realize people were worried about the tractor starting, I just want it plugged in to get heat in the cab faster

Use a radiator hose heater. That's where your heat comes from.

Just a note. On the SE Cab Tractors, it is REALLY tight to get the lower hose heater in. There is hardly enough room since the cab heater hose is spliced in where the radiator hose heater would normally be installed. We've gotten them in, it's just really tight. Look at the left side of the engine compartment, you'll see what we are talking about.

 

[grsthegreat]

there is no way to install a lower radiator heater in my dk45 cab tractor. the hose is too short and has a 90 degree bend to boot.

 

[kiotiken]

Use a radiator hose heater. That's where your heat comes from.

Just a note. On the SE Cab Tractors, it is REALLY tight to get the lower hose heater in. There is hardly enough room since the cab heater hose is spliced in where the radiator hose heater would normally be installed. We've gotten them in, it's just really tight. Look at the left side of the engine compartment, you'll see what we are talking about.

there is no way to install a lower radiator heater in my dk45 cab tractor. the hose is too short and has a 90 degree bend to boot.

Mine came with the rad hose heater already installed. I will say, it does look tight, but my dealer puts them on every tractor they sell, so they must be getting pretty good at doing it.

 

[Coyote machine]

Mine came with the rad hose heater already installed. I will say, it does look tight, but my dealer puts them on every tractor they sell, so they must be getting pretty good at doing it.

That's the thing about experience- it makes impossible looking jobs feasible!
It is possible as MIE and you have both stated- but not an easy job....

I still prefer the block heater over the rad hose heater- just my own preference, others may have different views on this subject.