Electrical power drop

[Lloyd_E]

I noticed the other day that the fan(in cab) slows or sounds like it is slowing down when I turn on other electrical switches - lights, radio etc. This was at idle - warming up and shutting down after a bit of work.
Should I be looking at replacing my battery? It is the original. Or is this a possible alternator issue?
I have no problem starting in cold weather - it was -12c the other day when I started the tractor.

TIA

[boomer1025]

You have too much stuff running when sitting at an idle and the alternator can't keep up with the load at an idle. when it's warming up you shouldn't need anything on except the dash lights if it's dark, same way when shutting it down.

[VictorW]

I believe the alternator max output is 55 amp but you won't get that at idle speed. If it started/cranked fine, it's probably not the battery. Check the fan/alt belt to make sure it's tight enough and not slipping when the alternator needs to put out current. If the belt is tight, you may just be drawing more than it can put out at idle like boomer advised.

[seacap04]

I start mine and let idle for a couple of minutes. Then I bump it up to 12-1400 rpm to warm it up the rest of the way. Alternator output at this rpm is enough for my lights.

[k0ua]

I had to re tighten the fan belt at 100 hours, and it seemed OK at delivery on my DK35se

James K0UA

[Coyote machine]

Hey Lloyd,

If you want an answer to your battery condition I'd start at the battery ground cable at the frame and verify its tight and clean, then go to the ground at the battery and same thing, tight and clean. Then if ALL connections are clean and tight with no corrosion, I'd verify the output of the alternator by reading the output voltage at idle at the battery, with a multi-meter, when at idle. Should be at least 14Volts. After adding a load, voltage should drop slightly. At higher RPMs above idle with a load like lights and heat you should still have above 13Volts. Less than 13 could indicate batterys inability to keep up with the load, as in an old and nearly worn out battery.
You could further isolate it by removing it and doing a load test at an auto center or some chain stores like Autozone, etc.
Furthermore, if its a number of years old it might likely be on its way out to pasture...

[pedalstomper78]

It's called "there's a higher current draw and therefore less available current....nothing is wrong".
Most cars still do the same thing. I know my truck does and it's a 105a alternator. Try it. There's just less total power available. I wouldn't worry about it. See if you still have better than 12v with this going on. If you do, find something else to worry about.

[Lloyd_E]

Thanks all. I will do a couple of tests to check and will probably not worry about it if it checks out OK. I also think at 4.5 years a new battery may be needed.

Lloyd

[rd_macgregor]

I got my DK45SC in 2006 and it is still starting fine with the original battery (YMMV, of course). Our climate here in PEI should be similar to yours...maybe even a bit harsher(?).
I wonder how long CUT owners (especially us in cold climates), should expect their batteries to last before needing replacement?
BOB

[LTEnterprises]

I still have the OEM battery in my 03 dk50C...no issues. I can tell it's slightly weaker than it used to be, but still cranks robustly. I did relocate my battery from crammed right up next to the condensor for the a/c, to out front inside a box @ the bottom of my home made grille guard....heat KILLS batteries, just shows up when you need the amperage

Look to the far lower left of this pic, I THINK you can see the battery location

Kinda blurry, but it used to reside where the tools are laying in ft of cond...

added a 2nd pic...maybe it's better