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   / New Member #11  
Bruce
You do have a 2006 configuration, as indicated by the "F" in the s/n. I don't have tech data to tell me the exact configuration of the 196 model so I'll assume it's a straight CK20 version where the stop solenoid operates through some external linkages like this:

http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/ck20/ss

and

http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/ck20/schematic

If so, your assumptions about how things should operate are correct. Reference your measurements:

I also tested the voltage at the wire connected to the solenoid and with the key in the off position, the meter read 0 volts. With the key in the on position with the engine running, the meter read 6 volts. With the key in the off position, the meter read 13.5 volts for about 5 seconds and then goes to 0 V. This suggests to me that the off position on the ignition is sending at least 12 volts to the connector. When it is connected, however, the solenoid does not operate, the engine continues to run, and the timer relay buzzes for a about 5 seconds and shuts off.

These are all normal values, except for (maybe) the 6v. I assume these measurements were made at the connector while the solenoid was disconnected. I believe you have a high resistance connection somewhere in the (B+) path from the battery to the solenoid such that the solenoid can't get enough current to operate. If possible, can you repeat these measurements with the solenoid connected?

I think you will find that the solenoid does not get sufficient voltage/current during the 5 second shutdown interval to operate the solenoid. The most likely causes are: poor (dirty/burned/coroded) contacts within the relay, a poor connection in the wire between the relay and the solenoid, a poor connection in the wire or fuse that feeds the relay from the battery/alternator. You can isolate the cause with your volt meter working your way backwards from the solenoid (e.g. measure at solenoid (with solenoid connected), measure at relay output, measure at relay B+ input, measure at fuse output, measure at fuse input). or you might just visually inspect the fuse first. Long leads with alligator clips (or a helper to work the key switch) help here. I'll bet you'ff find a high resistance connection in that path.

By the way, the ignition switch is not the problem this time. The timer starts (as it's supposed to) when you turn the switch to off.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#12  
Scott - thank you very much for the input. Those wiring diagrams are particularly helpful. I think (hope) you're probably spot on with your suspect wire connections diagnosis. I found this afternoon when I turned on both the signal lights and the hazards that all I got was a bunch of clicking under the dashboard and no lights. I'm going to spend some time tomorrow with the dash off cleaning up connections. I'm beginning to think I might have a bad ground somewhere. I've had similar problems with my old Fiat sports car and a bit of terminal cleaning and some dielectric grease has sorted things out. I hope that's all I'm facing here.
Bruce
 
   / New Member #13  
You may have bad grounds but that's not your stop-solenoid problem (because it works fine when connected directly to the battery). Look for a problem in the positive feed.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#14  
Good point...doh!!!

I'm curious about the links you gave me. They are excellent, and I've printed the diagrams. The diagnostic stuff is particularly helpful. Is there more? What is the source site?
 
   / New Member #15  
Sounds like you have some good advice good luck and welcome.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
   / New Member #16  
The diagnostic stuff is particularly helpful. Is there more? What is the source site?

A year or so ago, there was an Australian website with a number of Daedong manuals in pdf format. I saved the files applicable to my DK45s and also just the electrical portion of the CK20 book (to help answer someone's question). Since then. they locked the site (password access only) so it's no longer available. I had already paid for a paper copy of my books so I don't feel bad about saving the files for my tractor.

The links I sent were pdf page prints from the CK20 electrical section. I put them on my web site temporarily for your access. I'll probably delete them in a few days.

In any case, you can buy a paper copy of the manual for your CK from any dealer; I think they are in the $50-100 range.
 
 
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