ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
Bruce
You do have a 2006 configuration, as indicated by the "F" in the s/n. I don't have tech data to tell me the exact configuration of the 196 model so I'll assume it's a straight CK20 version where the stop solenoid operates through some external linkages like this:
http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/ck20/ss
and
http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/ck20/schematic
If so, your assumptions about how things should operate are correct. Reference your measurements:
These are all normal values, except for (maybe) the 6v. I assume these measurements were made at the connector while the solenoid was disconnected. I believe you have a high resistance connection somewhere in the (B+) path from the battery to the solenoid such that the solenoid can't get enough current to operate. If possible, can you repeat these measurements with the solenoid connected?
I think you will find that the solenoid does not get sufficient voltage/current during the 5 second shutdown interval to operate the solenoid. The most likely causes are: poor (dirty/burned/coroded) contacts within the relay, a poor connection in the wire between the relay and the solenoid, a poor connection in the wire or fuse that feeds the relay from the battery/alternator. You can isolate the cause with your volt meter working your way backwards from the solenoid (e.g. measure at solenoid (with solenoid connected), measure at relay output, measure at relay B+ input, measure at fuse output, measure at fuse input). or you might just visually inspect the fuse first. Long leads with alligator clips (or a helper to work the key switch) help here. I'll bet you'ff find a high resistance connection in that path.
By the way, the ignition switch is not the problem this time. The timer starts (as it's supposed to) when you turn the switch to off.
You do have a 2006 configuration, as indicated by the "F" in the s/n. I don't have tech data to tell me the exact configuration of the 196 model so I'll assume it's a straight CK20 version where the stop solenoid operates through some external linkages like this:
http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/ck20/ss
and
http://kittrellcommunitywatch.dyndns.org/ck20/schematic
If so, your assumptions about how things should operate are correct. Reference your measurements:
I also tested the voltage at the wire connected to the solenoid and with the key in the off position, the meter read 0 volts. With the key in the on position with the engine running, the meter read 6 volts. With the key in the off position, the meter read 13.5 volts for about 5 seconds and then goes to 0 V. This suggests to me that the off position on the ignition is sending at least 12 volts to the connector. When it is connected, however, the solenoid does not operate, the engine continues to run, and the timer relay buzzes for a about 5 seconds and shuts off.
These are all normal values, except for (maybe) the 6v. I assume these measurements were made at the connector while the solenoid was disconnected. I believe you have a high resistance connection somewhere in the (B+) path from the battery to the solenoid such that the solenoid can't get enough current to operate. If possible, can you repeat these measurements with the solenoid connected?
I think you will find that the solenoid does not get sufficient voltage/current during the 5 second shutdown interval to operate the solenoid. The most likely causes are: poor (dirty/burned/coroded) contacts within the relay, a poor connection in the wire between the relay and the solenoid, a poor connection in the wire or fuse that feeds the relay from the battery/alternator. You can isolate the cause with your volt meter working your way backwards from the solenoid (e.g. measure at solenoid (with solenoid connected), measure at relay output, measure at relay B+ input, measure at fuse output, measure at fuse input). or you might just visually inspect the fuse first. Long leads with alligator clips (or a helper to work the key switch) help here. I'll bet you'ff find a high resistance connection in that path.
By the way, the ignition switch is not the problem this time. The timer starts (as it's supposed to) when you turn the switch to off.