Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,659
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
Already used the extra fused circuit, (25 amp) supplied by Kioti in the OEM fusebox for the power to my Top-N-Tilt cylinders.
Needed to run more circuits to power a fused strobe, 2 7" Round halogen switched floods with a relay circuit, 2 3x5" rear rectangular halogens, also switched and fused, also with a relay too, and an older spinner type orange light for when plowing at night.
That doesn't include the rear work light, which I plan to raise off the crossbeam above the remotes, and add a switch so I can turn it off during the day
Took some time to think about how to get everything hooked up and where to store all the relays, fuses and wires for grounds, etc.
Here's what is done so far. Originally I was going to run the switched with relay circuits mentioned above off the battery hot post. The problem with that is the switches in the harness supplied with the lights have illumination even when the key is off, posing the possibility of a drain on the battery.
So, I changed the plan and decided to tap into the fuse box to make a new terminal block which would ONLY be hot when the key is on or the tractor is running.
Found the feed wire, at the back of the fuse box, that supplies power when the key switch is live, and tapped into it with a scotch lock. The new 12ga wire has a fuse holder built in. I put a 30 amp fuse in then ran the new wire through a small hole in the sheet metal up and to the right of the fuse box and out toward the firewall.
I took an Anchor brand marine grade multiple terminal strip and attached it to the bracket which holds the rear rubber support/clip for the right side lower gray fender section. Fortunately I did NOT have to drill any holes since the wire fit through the panel leading into the engine area, and the fender bracket also had a hole I used to bolt the terminal block to for the upper hole, and I used a cable tie to hold the lower section of the block. I used a 4 section block and made the entire block HOT by using jumpers available through any retailer who sells Anchor products.
All my hot wires, which then feed from the terminal block to the back of the tractor are attached with ring terminals to SS screws of the block that face toward the center of the tractor so as to not allow for possible chafing or other contact with the wires. All wires are cable tied at various key locations throughout their runs.
From the block rearward I went below the floorboard and ran toward the rear, exiting underneath the levers for the PTO and draft handles at the rear of the cup holder and then up and into the existing spare holes in the small black factory supplied toolbox, which is mounted on the horizontal crossbar which runs between the fenders.
This is where I attached to my hot wires each pair of lights individual harness, having it's own additional fuse holder with a factory supplied 15 amp fuse, and factory wired relay. I used the harnesses ground wires to attach to the toolbox's screws which hold the box in place and provide a good ground, out of the elements. In the left side of the toolbox I cut two holes for Marinco marine socket receptacles, into which I plugged the switched male plug from the strobe assembly and the old orange light.
Just above the two (staggered) receptacle mountings I cut a small notch to allow for the harness wires to pass to the outside of the toolbox and then attach to the crossbar, then up along the ROPS and eventually connect to the lights.
I had already added an aluminum diamondplate canopy, which allowed me to use the u-bolts which hold it to the ROPS to slip a small piece of aluminum behind the bolts, with a right angle bend to create a small 'shelf' and then use doublesided tape to attach the switch for each set of lights on either side of the ROPS.
I'm still in the hook-up and testing stage, but so far so good, and all circuits are a go with no blown fuses or other problems. So far I've only tested the harnesses and the strobe and orange light. Tomorrow I will hopefully get the other lights connected and tested, and then see what amp draw I'm creating by running all the lights at once.
Sorry for the lengthy description, I don't know how else to detail it, before I forget crucial aspects of the process. :confused3:
Needed to run more circuits to power a fused strobe, 2 7" Round halogen switched floods with a relay circuit, 2 3x5" rear rectangular halogens, also switched and fused, also with a relay too, and an older spinner type orange light for when plowing at night.
That doesn't include the rear work light, which I plan to raise off the crossbeam above the remotes, and add a switch so I can turn it off during the day
Took some time to think about how to get everything hooked up and where to store all the relays, fuses and wires for grounds, etc.
Here's what is done so far. Originally I was going to run the switched with relay circuits mentioned above off the battery hot post. The problem with that is the switches in the harness supplied with the lights have illumination even when the key is off, posing the possibility of a drain on the battery.
So, I changed the plan and decided to tap into the fuse box to make a new terminal block which would ONLY be hot when the key is on or the tractor is running.
Found the feed wire, at the back of the fuse box, that supplies power when the key switch is live, and tapped into it with a scotch lock. The new 12ga wire has a fuse holder built in. I put a 30 amp fuse in then ran the new wire through a small hole in the sheet metal up and to the right of the fuse box and out toward the firewall.
I took an Anchor brand marine grade multiple terminal strip and attached it to the bracket which holds the rear rubber support/clip for the right side lower gray fender section. Fortunately I did NOT have to drill any holes since the wire fit through the panel leading into the engine area, and the fender bracket also had a hole I used to bolt the terminal block to for the upper hole, and I used a cable tie to hold the lower section of the block. I used a 4 section block and made the entire block HOT by using jumpers available through any retailer who sells Anchor products.
All my hot wires, which then feed from the terminal block to the back of the tractor are attached with ring terminals to SS screws of the block that face toward the center of the tractor so as to not allow for possible chafing or other contact with the wires. All wires are cable tied at various key locations throughout their runs.
From the block rearward I went below the floorboard and ran toward the rear, exiting underneath the levers for the PTO and draft handles at the rear of the cup holder and then up and into the existing spare holes in the small black factory supplied toolbox, which is mounted on the horizontal crossbar which runs between the fenders.
This is where I attached to my hot wires each pair of lights individual harness, having it's own additional fuse holder with a factory supplied 15 amp fuse, and factory wired relay. I used the harnesses ground wires to attach to the toolbox's screws which hold the box in place and provide a good ground, out of the elements. In the left side of the toolbox I cut two holes for Marinco marine socket receptacles, into which I plugged the switched male plug from the strobe assembly and the old orange light.
Just above the two (staggered) receptacle mountings I cut a small notch to allow for the harness wires to pass to the outside of the toolbox and then attach to the crossbar, then up along the ROPS and eventually connect to the lights.
I had already added an aluminum diamondplate canopy, which allowed me to use the u-bolts which hold it to the ROPS to slip a small piece of aluminum behind the bolts, with a right angle bend to create a small 'shelf' and then use doublesided tape to attach the switch for each set of lights on either side of the ROPS.
I'm still in the hook-up and testing stage, but so far so good, and all circuits are a go with no blown fuses or other problems. So far I've only tested the harnesses and the strobe and orange light. Tomorrow I will hopefully get the other lights connected and tested, and then see what amp draw I'm creating by running all the lights at once.
Sorry for the lengthy description, I don't know how else to detail it, before I forget crucial aspects of the process. :confused3: