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  1. #1
    Elite Member Coyote machine's Avatar
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    May 2009
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    4,384
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    Southern VT
    Tractor
    '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 boxblade, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy.

    Default DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    Already used the extra fused circuit, (25 amp) supplied by Kioti in the OEM fusebox for the power to my Top-N-Tilt cylinders.
    Needed to run more circuits to power a fused strobe, 2 7" Round halogen switched floods with a relay circuit, 2 3x5" rear rectangular halogens, also switched and fused, also with a relay too, and an older spinner type orange light for when plowing at night.
    That doesn't include the rear work light, which I plan to raise off the crossbeam above the remotes, and add a switch so I can turn it off during the day
    Took some time to think about how to get everything hooked up and where to store all the relays, fuses and wires for grounds, etc.
    Here's what is done so far. Originally I was going to run the switched with relay circuits mentioned above off the battery hot post. The problem with that is the switches in the harness supplied with the lights have illumination even when the key is off, posing the possibility of a drain on the battery.
    So, I changed the plan and decided to tap into the fuse box to make a new terminal block which would ONLY be hot when the key is on or the tractor is running.
    Found the feed wire, at the back of the fuse box, that supplies power when the key switch is live, and tapped into it with a scotch lock. The new 12ga wire has a fuse holder built in. I put a 30 amp fuse in then ran the new wire through a small hole in the sheet metal up and to the right of the fuse box and out toward the firewall.
    I took an Anchor brand marine grade multiple terminal strip and attached it to the bracket which holds the rear rubber support/clip for the right side lower gray fender section. Fortunately I did NOT have to drill any holes since the wire fit through the panel leading into the engine area, and the fender bracket also had a hole I used to bolt the terminal block to for the upper hole, and I used a cable tie to hold the lower section of the block. I used a 4 section block and made the entire block HOT by using jumpers available through any retailer who sells Anchor products.
    All my hot wires, which then feed from the terminal block to the back of the tractor are attached with ring terminals to SS screws of the block that face toward the center of the tractor so as to not allow for possible chafing or other contact with the wires. All wires are cable tied at various key locations throughout their runs.
    From the block rearward I went below the floorboard and ran toward the rear, exiting underneath the levers for the PTO and draft handles at the rear of the cup holder and then up and into the existing spare holes in the small black factory supplied toolbox, which is mounted on the horizontal crossbar which runs between the fenders.
    This is where I attached to my hot wires each pair of lights individual harness, having it's own additional fuse holder with a factory supplied 15 amp fuse, and factory wired relay. I used the harnesses ground wires to attach to the toolbox's screws which hold the box in place and provide a good ground, out of the elements. In the left side of the toolbox I cut two holes for Marinco marine socket receptacles, into which I plugged the switched male plug from the strobe assembly and the old orange light.
    Just above the two (staggered) receptacle mountings I cut a small notch to allow for the harness wires to pass to the outside of the toolbox and then attach to the crossbar, then up along the ROPS and eventually connect to the lights.
    I had already added an aluminum diamondplate canopy, which allowed me to use the u-bolts which hold it to the ROPS to slip a small piece of aluminum behind the bolts, with a right angle bend to create a small 'shelf' and then use doublesided tape to attach the switch for each set of lights on either side of the ROPS.
    I'm still in the hook-up and testing stage, but so far so good, and all circuits are a go with no blown fuses or other problems. So far I've only tested the harnesses and the strobe and orange light. Tomorrow I will hopefully get the other lights connected and tested, and then see what amp draw I'm creating by running all the lights at once.
    Sorry for the lengthy description, I don't know how else to detail it, before I forget crucial aspects of the process.
    2010 DK-40se/hst, Kioti KL-401 FEL, (with reversible Kioti cutting edge), 72" Ratchet Rake. Fit Rite Top-N-Tilt hydraulics & diverter valve. HLA Series 2000 7' snowplow, Aquiline MPC rear chains.

    Scag Wildcat: Kawasaki 26HP, with bagger system. Dr. brush mower, & 42" lawn deck, Dr. self propelled, 6.5HP Trimmer mower. Pro-Mow 3 gang mower, no HP.

    Bunch of STIHL chainsaws: 011x 2, MS192T, MS200T, MS180C, MS230, MS270 (Wood Boss), 038 Farmboss, '86 anniversary edition.

  2. #2
    Super Star Member murphy1244's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    16,581
    Location
    Ohio
    Tractor
    Kioti DK 40-Massey ferguson 135-Ventrac 4500 Diesel

    Default Re: DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    Already used the extra fused circuit, (25 amp) supplied by Kioti in the OEM fusebox for the power to my Top-N-Tilt cylinders?? Did you get electric cylinders?
    Murph ------------

  3. #3
    Elite Member Coyote machine's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    4,384
    Location
    Southern VT
    Tractor
    '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 boxblade, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy.

    Default Re: DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    No I mis-stated that. I have a Fit-Rite TNT which uses an electrically activated switch in the hydraulic valve to actuate my loader's additional set of remotes that are used for my grapple or plow.
    The TNT is two hydraulic cylinders, one for top link and other for side link, mostly for adjusting the box blade from the 'Captain's' chair.
    2010 DK-40se/hst, Kioti KL-401 FEL, (with reversible Kioti cutting edge), 72" Ratchet Rake. Fit Rite Top-N-Tilt hydraulics & diverter valve. HLA Series 2000 7' snowplow, Aquiline MPC rear chains.

    Scag Wildcat: Kawasaki 26HP, with bagger system. Dr. brush mower, & 42" lawn deck, Dr. self propelled, 6.5HP Trimmer mower. Pro-Mow 3 gang mower, no HP.

    Bunch of STIHL chainsaws: 011x 2, MS192T, MS200T, MS180C, MS230, MS270 (Wood Boss), 038 Farmboss, '86 anniversary edition.

  4. #4
    Silver Member duanekeys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    130
    Location
    Walnut Grove, MO
    Tractor
    Kioti DK40SE

    Default Re: DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    I'd love some pics of your wiring, switch, and fuse box locations!
    Quote Originally Posted by Coyote machine View Post
    Already used the extra fused circuit, (25 amp) supplied by Kioti in the OEM fusebox for the power to my Top-N-Tilt cylinders.
    Needed to run more circuits to power a fused strobe, 2 7" Round halogen switched floods with a relay circuit, 2 3x5" rear rectangular halogens, also switched and fused, also with a relay too, and an older spinner type orange light for when plowing at night.
    That doesn't include the rear work light, which I plan to raise off the crossbeam above the remotes, and add a switch so I can turn it off during the day
    Took some time to think about how to get everything hooked up and where to store all the relays, fuses and wires for grounds, etc.
    Here's what is done so far. Originally I was going to run the switched with relay circuits mentioned above off the battery hot post. The problem with that is the switches in the harness supplied with the lights have illumination even when the key is off, posing the possibility of a drain on the battery.
    So, I changed the plan and decided to tap into the fuse box to make a new terminal block which would ONLY be hot when the key is on or the tractor is running.
    Found the feed wire, at the back of the fuse box, that supplies power when the key switch is live, and tapped into it with a scotch lock. The new 12ga wire has a fuse holder built in. I put a 30 amp fuse in then ran the new wire through a small hole in the sheet metal up and to the right of the fuse box and out toward the firewall.
    I took an Anchor brand marine grade multiple terminal strip and attached it to the bracket which holds the rear rubber support/clip for the right side lower gray fender section. Fortunately I did NOT have to drill any holes since the wire fit through the panel leading into the engine area, and the fender bracket also had a hole I used to bolt the terminal block to for the upper hole, and I used a cable tie to hold the lower section of the block. I used a 4 section block and made the entire block HOT by using jumpers available through any retailer who sells Anchor products.
    All my hot wires, which then feed from the terminal block to the back of the tractor are attached with ring terminals to SS screws of the block that face toward the center of the tractor so as to not allow for possible chafing or other contact with the wires. All wires are cable tied at various key locations throughout their runs.
    From the block rearward I went below the floorboard and ran toward the rear, exiting underneath the levers for the PTO and draft handles at the rear of the cup holder and then up and into the existing spare holes in the small black factory supplied toolbox, which is mounted on the horizontal crossbar which runs between the fenders.
    This is where I attached to my hot wires each pair of lights individual harness, having it's own additional fuse holder with a factory supplied 15 amp fuse, and factory wired relay. I used the harnesses ground wires to attach to the toolbox's screws which hold the box in place and provide a good ground, out of the elements. In the left side of the toolbox I cut two holes for Marinco marine socket receptacles, into which I plugged the switched male plug from the strobe assembly and the old orange light.
    Just above the two (staggered) receptacle mountings I cut a small notch to allow for the harness wires to pass to the outside of the toolbox and then attach to the crossbar, then up along the ROPS and eventually connect to the lights.
    I had already added an aluminum diamondplate canopy, which allowed me to use the u-bolts which hold it to the ROPS to slip a small piece of aluminum behind the bolts, with a right angle bend to create a small 'shelf' and then use doublesided tape to attach the switch for each set of lights on either side of the ROPS.
    I'm still in the hook-up and testing stage, but so far so good, and all circuits are a go with no blown fuses or other problems. So far I've only tested the harnesses and the strobe and orange light. Tomorrow I will hopefully get the other lights connected and tested, and then see what amp draw I'm creating by running all the lights at once.
    Sorry for the lengthy description, I don't know how else to detail it, before I forget crucial aspects of the process.
    Kioti DK40SE w/KL401 Loader
    Brush Hog RD6 rotary cutter
    United 672HD Box Blade
    3 Point Bale Spike, QA Bale Fork

  5. #5
    Elite Member Coyote machine's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    4,384
    Location
    Southern VT
    Tractor
    '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 boxblade, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy.

    Default Re: DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    OK. I'll get some posted soon for 'ya. Heading out the door at this moment.
    2010 DK-40se/hst, Kioti KL-401 FEL, (with reversible Kioti cutting edge), 72" Ratchet Rake. Fit Rite Top-N-Tilt hydraulics & diverter valve. HLA Series 2000 7' snowplow, Aquiline MPC rear chains.

    Scag Wildcat: Kawasaki 26HP, with bagger system. Dr. brush mower, & 42" lawn deck, Dr. self propelled, 6.5HP Trimmer mower. Pro-Mow 3 gang mower, no HP.

    Bunch of STIHL chainsaws: 011x 2, MS192T, MS200T, MS180C, MS230, MS270 (Wood Boss), 038 Farmboss, '86 anniversary edition.

  6. #6
    Elite Member Coyote machine's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    4,384
    Location
    Southern VT
    Tractor
    '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 boxblade, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy.

    Default Re: DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    Quote Originally Posted by duanekeys View Post
    I'd love some pics of your wiring, switch, and fuse box locations!
    Here are a few of the install of the auxiliary terminal block, how it's tapped into the existing fuse-box and the location of the wire passing power from the factory fuse-box to the aux terminal block, located just below the passenger side hinge for the below hood gray side panel.
    -img_2206-jpg
    The above pic shows the factory fuse block with a 10ga red wire 'tapped', (by Scotch Lock) onto the factory red'feed' wire, which is HOT when the ignition is ON.
    (The factory hot feed goes to the fourth from the bottom fuse terminal on the back of that fuse location).
    This new 10ga wire then passes through the firewall panels into the engine compartment in the second pic below.

    -img_2207-jpg
    Above the new wire which feeds from the factory fuse-box passes into the engine compartment and then attaches to the aux terminal block.

    -img_2208-jpg
    This above pic shows where the aux terminal block attaches at top, just below the bolt which holds the brass colored side panel hinge, and at the bottom via a cable tie. Be careful to route the new hot feed to the block away from any place the wire might chafe or bind. If necessary use a sheath to keep the wire from damage.
    Note: the aux terminal block is ALL HOT. Each screw has a jumper on the left side connecting it to the screw below, thus energizing the entire block via any screw post on the right side. My hot 'in' is the wire covered in black shrink wrap, the largest wire shown.

    This is as far as I have taken pictures to date of the install, BUT I will take some more showing where I mounted the lights and their switches and how I ran the wires from the aux terminal block to the rear of the tractor, etc.

    CM out for now...
    Last edited by Coyote machine; 03-15-2013 at 10:12 PM.
    2010 DK-40se/hst, Kioti KL-401 FEL, (with reversible Kioti cutting edge), 72" Ratchet Rake. Fit Rite Top-N-Tilt hydraulics & diverter valve. HLA Series 2000 7' snowplow, Aquiline MPC rear chains.

    Scag Wildcat: Kawasaki 26HP, with bagger system. Dr. brush mower, & 42" lawn deck, Dr. self propelled, 6.5HP Trimmer mower. Pro-Mow 3 gang mower, no HP.

    Bunch of STIHL chainsaws: 011x 2, MS192T, MS200T, MS180C, MS230, MS270 (Wood Boss), 038 Farmboss, '86 anniversary edition.

  7. #7
    Super Star Member murphy1244's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    16,581
    Location
    Ohio
    Tractor
    Kioti DK 40-Massey ferguson 135-Ventrac 4500 Diesel

    Default Re: DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    I don't like scotch lock taps they corrode with time and cause gremlins.
    Murph ------------

  8. #8
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    4,409
    Location
    Northwest, WA

    Default Re: DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    Quote Originally Posted by murphy1244 View Post
    I don't like scotch lock taps
    Same here, so much so I feel they should be outlawed for any 'manufacturer' to use in new equipment.

    Nice job Coyote.

    Get a grommet on that wire going thru the sheet metal asap.

    Did you fuse your new fuse panel ?
    ::Sent from a standard desktop keyboard::

    My Photobucket

  9. #9
    Elite Member Coyote machine's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    4,384
    Location
    Southern VT
    Tractor
    '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 boxblade, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy.

    Default Re: DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    Quote Originally Posted by murphy1244 View Post
    I don't like scotch lock taps they corrode with time and cause gremlins.
    I don't like them either, but sometimes space doesn't allow for anything else to be used. BTW, the Scotch Lock is sealed at both ends with liq electrical tape and the new added wire is cable tied to the factory wire and then electrical tape added. No corrosion likely here unless I go to the ocean and dig for clams!
    2010 DK-40se/hst, Kioti KL-401 FEL, (with reversible Kioti cutting edge), 72" Ratchet Rake. Fit Rite Top-N-Tilt hydraulics & diverter valve. HLA Series 2000 7' snowplow, Aquiline MPC rear chains.

    Scag Wildcat: Kawasaki 26HP, with bagger system. Dr. brush mower, & 42" lawn deck, Dr. self propelled, 6.5HP Trimmer mower. Pro-Mow 3 gang mower, no HP.

    Bunch of STIHL chainsaws: 011x 2, MS192T, MS200T, MS180C, MS230, MS270 (Wood Boss), 038 Farmboss, '86 anniversary edition.

  10. #10
    Elite Member Coyote machine's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    4,384
    Location
    Southern VT
    Tractor
    '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 boxblade, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy.

    Default Re: DK-40 Added aux fuses/terminal block for extra lights

    Quote Originally Posted by Willl View Post
    Same here, so much so I feel they should be outlawed for any 'manufacturer' to use in new equipment.

    Nice job Coyote.

    Get a grommet on that wire going thru the sheet metal asap.

    Did you fuse your new fuse panel ?

    Thanks. Job is not complete, yet. New terminal block is fused in each downstream wiring harness for the lights. AND the factory hot feed wire has an inline fuse holder at the scotch lock with a 30 amp fuse to protect the downstream wiring and lights.
    Last edited by Coyote machine; 03-17-2013 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Clarification of fuse use.
    2010 DK-40se/hst, Kioti KL-401 FEL, (with reversible Kioti cutting edge), 72" Ratchet Rake. Fit Rite Top-N-Tilt hydraulics & diverter valve. HLA Series 2000 7' snowplow, Aquiline MPC rear chains.

    Scag Wildcat: Kawasaki 26HP, with bagger system. Dr. brush mower, & 42" lawn deck, Dr. self propelled, 6.5HP Trimmer mower. Pro-Mow 3 gang mower, no HP.

    Bunch of STIHL chainsaws: 011x 2, MS192T, MS200T, MS180C, MS230, MS270 (Wood Boss), 038 Farmboss, '86 anniversary edition.

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