Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke

   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke #11  
Foto, that's the spirit, ATTACK & "just do it":laughing: I agree with yanking off the FEL if you can.

I just did the cardboard trick when I pulled the manifold off my 94 1 ton van. That is good advise because some of the bolts may be different length, this way you can not make a mistake. It sounds like you have a plan,,,,keep us posted as to how it all goes back together.
 
   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke #12  
CM, no it was my DK and it does not sit much...if I remember it went around 550 hrs....there is a thread on it someplace here.
 
   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Tonight was step one Got the FEL off. Had my neighbor come over with his truck and pulled tractor out from under FEL. I learned there is a hook on the bottom of the bracket, after jacking the FEL up I was able to free it from the base. And boy I see what you guys where saying about removing it to save working around that could be a real pain in the butt. I am now wondering about attacking this project from overhead or front to back. Should I remove radiator and start from front, or can I leave it in place to save the amount of stuff I need to take off. I would hate to get into it from the top and wish I removed the radiator.Thank You for your great feedback I read them all and makes me look at things from every angle since I am in uncharted waters
Fotoman
 
   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke #14  
You have to drain the rad fluid anyway....might as well pull the rad off and get it out of the way.
 
   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Step two today I removed hood and attacked the project from the top of the engine.I removed all of the parts from the head and I am ready to remove head in the morning. I did find antifreeze in the manifold just puddled in the main flange. but when I check the oil dipstick I don't see or taste any antifreeze in the oil.I also removed the air intake from the head and didn't find a gasket but I have a new one from the dealer. I am planning to vacuum and clean the top of the engine before I remove the Head to keep it clean.
 
   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke #16  
Step two today I removed hood and attacked the project from the top of the engine.I removed all of the parts from the head and I am ready to remove head in the morning. I did find antifreeze in the manifold just puddled in the main flange. but when I check the oil dipstick I don't see or taste any antifreeze in the oil.I also removed the air intake from the head and didn't find a gasket but I have a new one from the dealer. I am planning to vacuum and clean the top of the engine before I remove the Head to keep it clean.

FWIW, chances are you will get antifreeze in the oils passages and so on no matter how meticulous you try to be- it's just the way things usually go with engine repairs. Not to worry, you'll be able to clean up prior to the reassembly phase. It's all part of the process. That's also why you change the oil and antifreeze during the rebuild too, to reduce chance of contaminants causing problems.
 
   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke
  • Thread Starter
#17  
new drama is snapping bolt with sleeve that holds down to head the valve cover. I snapped it in the cylinder head. what methods and tools would you recommend to remove it from head?
 
   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke #18  
Try a small prick punch and hammer to coax it out first. If it is not bottomed out it should remove easy. If that doesn't work look for a left twisted drill. That might hook it and spin it out. Easy out is the last option.
 
   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke #19  
Also, for the remainder, hose every bolt/nut down with Kroil or Blaster & give it an hr or so to soak in, then hose 'em down again.
 
   / Ck 25 starts hard and blows white smoke #20  
What's already been said about loosening up the bolts, and take a hammer and hit the bolt square on it's head a couple of time to put impact straight down on top of the bolt to help 'shock' the bolt and threads into freeing up any rust or other bonding, and then try twisting them out with a hand ratchet, NOT air so you can 'feel' the bolt wanting to break loose or needing more penetrating oil, etc. If all else fails use heat from a propane torch to heat up the bolt and then try turning it after it's cooled but before it's cold.
It's tricky, sometimes if you can get a bolt to move in either direction you can use it to cut through the gunk that's binding it by going tighter to looser, and back and forth slowly until she breaks free....
Good luck.
 
 
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