Purchasing my first CUT and considering the Kioti DK40SE HST

[sdef]

Good day,

I will be clearing my slightly sloped, densely wooded and very rocky, 4.4 acre retirement property soon and will be purchasing a CUT tractor in the low 40 HP range with HST. Most of my tractor work will be using the FEL and 600+ pound box blade (ETA or Woods BSM72), primarily to dig up/move rocks, along with the normal landscaping, making a 100' long curtain (French) drain, removing trees 6" diameter or less (leaving the large ones to the pros), building a garden and planting fruit trees. I will also be purchasing a rock bucket, along with a CID stump bucket for digging. And the 3 PTH T-N-T units are a requirement.

Up to now, the LS R4041H HST has been my favorite, as it seems to be the best bang-for-the-buck over most others and comes standard with all of the features I desire. The only improvements I would want on the LS would be a different location for the 3 PTH controls (are mounted close to the floor), along with detents on these controls and a loader control that more easily would allow bucket curl with vertical movement. Both the LS and Kioti (along with Yanmar LX4100) seem to have very good FELs. I also require quick attack skid steer loader connections along with 2 pair of remote hydraulic connections at the rear and telescopic lift arms.

I see there is a Kioti dealer (Whitley Power Equipment) 60 miles away from me and am now considering Kiota also. Kioti's DK40SE HST seems to be very similar to the LS R4041H in all important aspects and I just sent the dealer an email requesting pricing information.

Since I am posting this in the Kioti forum, I assume most comments will be glowing ... I would appreciate any comments concerning Kioti's reliability, design, parts availability, engine noise, comfort, operating costs, whatever.

Thanks.

 

[Coyote machine]

Kioti DK-40 is what you want. Manufactured by Daedong S. Korea.
I've had two DK series since 2009 when I bought a DK-35, which had less lifting power than the 40. I needed the extra lift and stronger loader of the DK-40 so I traded mine in, and the 40 does everything I need it to. I have T-N-T from Fit Rite Hydraulics and the largest Kioti KB-2485 backhoe, box blade, 6' brush hog, hoe hyd thumb and 'claw' for rock and stump ripping, from Michigan Iron & Equipment. I do serious work in the woods, in the fields and around my 21 acre farmstead. I use an Igland winch and log grapple to wrestle trees into complete submission.
I've had no problems to report regarding maintenance, reliability or any other concerns. I do keep it indoors in a heated barn, but it is NOT babied or waxed. In fact, it's covered in mud from the most recent log grapple 'exercise' a week or so ago.

 

[sdef]

Thanks Coyote machine. How did you run you hydraulics to the FEL? I have been considering various methods so I could use a grapple also.

Also, the semi-local dealer does not have a HST model to drive. How does the HST react? On the LS, quickly removing the foot from the HST pedal instantly brings the tractor to a stop, like jamming on the brake (one has to be careful) which is exactly what I want in the woods. But the Yanmar LX4100 stops more slowly and creeps a bit as it is doing so.

 

[Coyote machine]

Ran two sets of rear remotes, second set purchased after the tractor from dealer. I have fit rite hyd top and tilt cylinders AND remote valve which is actuated by a push-button, attached to my joystick's stick, below the factory handle. The valve body bolts up under the left rear fender bracket with no drilling! Hoses run from valve to crossbar support on loader with QD's for grapple and snowplow. It all works like a charm. Took a while to figure out hose runs since I added the top-n-tilt and remote valve AFTER having already set-up the grapple on the second set of remotes, but in the end everything is hidden and no conflicts.

HST is the way to go in my opinion, it will be quick/ instant at first, and will adjust slightly as break-in occurs. Creeping HST can sometimes be adjusted, I believe, but I'm not certain on that question.

I will mention to do regular tightening of loader bracket bolts and all other essential bolts. This is just a proven thing for these tractors- otherwise they will tend to loosen, if not already somewhat loose from the factory, in some cases.
Also- NEVER over tighten the two oil pan drain bolts, they can tear out and cause grief.

Keep it greased, and make sure you have spare zerks from your dealer, you will NOT find them elsewhere.

I've got over 1000 hours between the 350+ on the first and the rest on the second. I change filters as scheduled and run Mobil 1 diesel oil after the first oil change. I have yet to change out my hydro fluid but do top it off when I open the lines to add valves, hoses, etc. I will probably change it out at some maintenance interval, just to see what it ends up looking like. It doesn't worry me too much and my dealer supports this method. It is for all intents a closed system, which with regular filter changes should stay clean. YMMV.

CM-out

 

[murphy1244]

I ran my 2nd remote to the front and had a extention made for the control so its right under the FEL control

 

[ritcheyvs]

I have an older (2006) DK45S (shuttle-shift gear tranny). It is a very strong machine but the design is different from current models. My machine has been 100% reliable except for 3-point parts that got lost in the woods (check those lynch pins every time you walk out to the tractor!) I keep mine under cover but outside. I have been very satisfied with my Kioti. I think Kioti owners may be more into DIY repair than owners of big-name brands and you'll see a lot of that discussion on this site. Others know more but I have read that the HST on some CK models seems problematic and (I think the CK20) tranny has problems with hills. My gear tranny pulls like a locomotive, so I'm repeating hearsay.

But my main advice is to shop the dealer at least as hard as the tractor brand. You want a dealer that can/will handle any problems and still be there when you need him. I had a great dealer but he went out of business. Close proximity is a plus, but that's just time and money. You will want a dealer for any major maintenance that involves splitting the tractor. Like all machines, some tractors run perfectly from day one and others need major repairs before they are right. You want a dealer that can and will fix a problem should one arise. One poster here (landedakioti) bought a Kioti in one state (best price) and then moved to another state (went through two dealers there) and seems to have way too many problems. Ask for dealer references and call a few.

 

[sdef]

Murphy1244- That is how I would like to run the front hydraulics as it seems the simplest. But both of the rears will be taken up with operating the T-N-T, so I will probably have to run a 3rd remote- possibly with a diverter valve.

ritcheyvs- That is good advice concerning the dealer and I do want to purchase from the dealer whom I will be getting service from. I do have a great reference for the LS dealer and have met with them several times and am comfortable. The Kioti dealer just came back with a quote that is 15% higher than the LS dealer and he does not load the tires as the LS dealer does, as part of the standard price for any tractor they sell with a loader.

 

[seacap04]

I know very little about the LS, but 15% less with loaded tires and a dealer you are comfortable with deserves serious thought. It cost me $450, not counting travel time and gas to load the rear tires on my DK45

 

[kiotiken]

If I was buying right now, I think it would come down to LS and Kioti, both of which my current dealer, who I'm very happy with, sells. I'd look at them all of course, but these two are very close in most areas and offer outstanding value for money. I love my DK45 and like to think I'd chose Kioti again after a close comparison to LS and the others, but if it truly was 15% less for the LS, from everything I've heard on TBN and what I know of LS, I would go LS without thinking twice. I doubt that it really is 15% though. Several people have posted that Kioti dealers are simply quoting MSRP when called or emailed. Walking in, sitting in some seats and talking to the dealer will likely change the price he quoted, I don't know about 15% though.

 

[murphy1244]

I got 17% on mine but I bought in December.