DK45SE modding ? (filling tires and adding remotes, what else?)

[Jose G]

Hi guys,

I enjoy my DK45SE but did a lot of loader work lately and I find my box blade to be too light (Walco/Douglas HD), I scared the **** out of me while lifting a full bucket of wet sand... the tractor started to lean on the right and.. it just stopped, by chance no bird landed on my hood!

1st mod on the tractor... filling all the tires of windshield washer fluid. (next summer, concrete ballast..)

I bought a 55 Gallon drum of -40 degres locally and found the little filling valve with the pressure release off ebay, I had an old fuel pump off a Dodge neon 1998 laying in a spare parts bin, 20 feet of hoses, some fittings and I was set.

my tires are AG R1 (stock one), I started to fill the rear right one... 20 minutes later, the drum was down to 30 gallons and the fluid level wasn't near being where I wanted it to be... I turned the wheel to let drip the fluid out (to check the level) and It started to drip at ~ 3 O'clock, so it kind of 2/3 full of where I want it to be...

since I had only 1 drum, I decided to put 2-3 more gallons in the right tire and put the rest in the left tire to even both wheel... I'll get another drum this week to finish the job, I had in mind I could fill all four tires with only one drum but I was soo wrong!!

one 55 gallons drum is 85 $ cdn so it's cheap stuff, I should have bought 2... hope to finish this ASAP.


2nd mod on the list (winter work for next summer) will be 2 maybe 3 remote valves on the FEL... still debating the best way to do this ?
2 diverter valve hooked on my FEL valve and a T off the rear Detent remote (needed for the future Hyd. motor) or one diverter + 2 T off the current rear remotes? hard line under the tractor or flexible?... and I still need to find a way to add switches on my current joystick or maybe just change the handle?

I'm currently building a front sickle bar driven by an hydraulic motor with 2 hydraulic cylinders, one for a pivot and another one to extend the bar further to the right (this one is not sure yet).

any mod you guys did on your Kioti? anyone tried a led bar by any chance ?


thanks in advance for your opinion/knowledge

Jose G.

 

[murphy1244]

Would love to see this mod!

 

[AdamCanterbury]

Go to (Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure) and get the third function valve kit that they offer. It is a true third function and will allow you to raise and lower the loader arms while working the third function. It seems to be cleanest install and the best way to handle that. You can also check out WR Long. They have a valve kit that will offer front hydraulics also.

 

[lostcreekranch]

I may be mistaken but believe the 3rd function kit offered by ETA is the WR Long.

 

[Egbert]

I'd love to hear about any convenience mods inside the cab. There is zero storage for anything from gloves to lunch. Particularly interested in things that don't require much damage to install.

 

[cbrouilltractor]

Hi

Are building something Like that
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMt7B4kNrzo
Where have round the sicle bar?

I'm Atkins Wellington les sons this fall to be able to built some attachements.

 

[kiotiken]

I'm no expert, but from everything I've read, you don't want to fill your front tires, it's to much weight and may cause damage. It's also not needed for stability. The lack of stability when using the loader comes from the weight transfer to the front axle of the tractor. Adding weight to the front tires does nothing to help that. The axle also pivots, so adding weight won't prevent any tipping.

 

[IslandTractor]

Not sure I can find a photo (I'll post later if I can) but one helpful mod I made to mine was to replace the tiny almost useless tool box with one that fits the whole space behind the operator's seat. I did it from scratch in a welding class I took with access to big press brakes and shears etc but after all was said and done, I noticed that AgriSupply sells an almost identically sized metal toolbox for cheap money that could easily be bolted into place. Just use some big washers or backing plate to spread the load. Mine is 12g and I imagine the AgriSupply is probably 18g or 20g so might need a bit more support. If I were to do it again I'd use 14g or even 16g. 12 was overkill.

The new size tool box allows me to keep big wrenches and hammer and pliers and shackles and pins etc as well as other stuff that would never fit into the stock toolbox. Much happier with it. Doesn't interfere with either the seat or 3pt etc. I copied the spring lid hold down exactly from the original.

 

[Jose G]

Hi

Are building something Like that
Faucheuse forestière .wmv - YouTube
Where have round the sicle bar?

I'm Atkins Wellington les sons this fall to be able to built some attachements.

Yes the project is currently on a hold but it should be done by the next summer. (broke my left door a month ago and the dealer still have my tractor...)
This is actually the video that made me want to have one. The guy isnt far away from me but im pretty sure he wants 3k$ for the thing (like pretty much every attachments). A used sickle bar runs for 300-400$ (just need the sickle bar itself), a new Hyd. motor is between 250-400$ depending on the one you take... the rest is time.

 

[Jose G]

I'm no expert, but from everything I've read, you don't want to fill your front tires, it's to much weight and may cause damage. It's also not needed for stability. The lack of stability when using the loader comes from the weight transfer to the front axle of the tractor. Adding weight to the front tires does nothing to help that. The axle also pivots, so adding weight won't prevent any tipping.

that make sense (I wont fill the front), I also noticed while watching a lot of videos that with Industrial front tire, the tractor seem more stable, maybe that is because my AG tires compress too much ? I may have to change my front tire to IND one and keep my rear Ag tire, what do you think? (or maybe add some air, all 4 tires are at 18 psi)

last month I bought 100 boxes of 30 lbs of woods, I tried to lift the whole palet (I know the loader is only rated to 2700#, but hey, got to try), and the tractor start to lean on his right, the rear tires were still on the ground (half filled), I'll fill them as soon as I get the tractor back...but I think that I won't be able to lift 2700# without leaning on the side even with filled tires / or ballast in the rear. I may be wrong but I do think IND tires could help?