DK45 FEL capacity issues?

k0ua · Nov 12, 2013

I am not bragging or anything about being a superior operator. (Ok maybe I am

) but I pay attention to how the tractor is reacting and modulate the HST pedal to not load the engine down. I push in to the pile and let off of the pedal, curl and lift and then slightly drop the lift, and the upper portion of the pile that you cannot lift anyway will often break off and slide toward the nearly full bucket giving you a super filled bucket. It is harder to describe than do, but it is a coordinated movement of pedal/curl/lift for maximum load. I did not learn how to do this overnight or even for the first few years.. It took a lot of time to get good with a loader, and each tractor takes a different touch for optimal results. I don't really mean this a a brag guys, I am just saying that you get better at this loader game over a period of years.

James K0UA

IslandTractor · Nov 12, 2013

k0ua said:
I am not bragging or anything about being a superior operator. (Ok maybe I am) but I pay attention to how the tractor is reacting and modulate the HST pedal to not load the engine down. I push in to the pile and let off of the pedal, curl and lift and then slightly drop the lift, and the upper portion of the pile that you cannot lift anyway will often break off and slide toward the nearly full bucket giving you a super filled bucket. It is harder to describe than do, but it is a coordinated movement of pedal/curl/lift for maximum load. I did not learn how to do this overnight or even for the first few years.. It took a lot of time to get good with a loader, and each tractor takes a different touch for optimal results. I don't really mean this a a brag guys, I am just saying that you get better at this loader game over a period of years.

James K0UA

You are right but it is still easy to stall when rushing or suddenly hit a patch of extra lush grass or anthill. Some of us just tolerate the occasional stall to keep RPMs at 1800 instead of full PTO. Not a good idea to stall regularly but once in a while is no big deal.

Coyote machine · Nov 13, 2013

Is stalling different than shutting the engine off via the keyswitch?

IslandTractor · Nov 13, 2013

Coyote machine said:
Is stalling different than shutting the engine off via the keyswitch?

Yes, it is different. Frequent stalling means you are probably lugging the engine a lot which is bad for it. I don't know if sudden stalls cause any damage though it isn't a great idea.

The reason lugging is bad, AFAIK, is that it creates more strain on reciprocating parts and may reduce lubrication due to lower rpm of internal components.

Shutting an engine off with the key just cuts fuel supply. An alternative in some diesels is to release compression to stop the engine. My old Yanmar 3GM boat motor was stopped that way.

Coyote machine · Nov 13, 2013

So, are you saying that stalling at 1800 RPMs is worse than shutting it off at idle of 1000RPMs?
Not looking to argue, just understand the thinking about how reciprocating parts come into play in one instance and not the other....and how reduction of lubrication occurs.

IslandTractor · Nov 13, 2013

Coyote machine said:
So, are you saying that stalling at 1800 RPMs is worse than shutting it off at idle of 1000RPMs?
Not looking to argue, just understand the thinking about how reciprocating parts come into play in one instance and not the other....and how reduction of lubrication occurs.

Stalling doesn't cause a problem with lubrication. Lugging might.

Stalling does put maximum pressure on internal components however (though presumably they are designed to handle it). Shutting off from idle is quite a different matter as the fuel is just shut off so the engine stops after a few revs made possible by flywheel inertia.

Jesse masterson · Nov 14, 2013

Don't really know your issue , but I can say from owning a Dk 45 power is not the problem , either you have mechanical issues or operator error, my Dk has never stalled( though I do have shuttle shift) if I am paying attention to the job at hand, I can understand blaming power and ability if you used to operating 100 hp tractors, the Dk is not, as I am not an Albert Einstein .

sdef · Nov 22, 2013

I am reporting back with my findings. It took me awhile to figure out the four different hydraulic couplings types- 1/2" ISO 5675 (Ag- rear remotes), 1/2" ISO 16028 (skid steer flat face at the grapple), 3/8 ISO 7241-1 series A (joystick-FEL disconnects) and ISO 7241-1 series B (WR Long 3rd function FEL disconnects).

The Kioti shop manual specifies 2702 PSI at the rear remotes at maximum throttle (2850 RPM on mine). Test data:

1000 RPM- 2300 PSI
1500 RPM- 2300 PSI
2000 RPM- 2400 PSI
2500 RPM- 2500 PSI
2850 RPM- 2600 PSI

For some reason I was thinking I would be getting maximum hydraulic pressure at 2000 RPM, which is not true per my data. The 5000 PSI gauge accuracy is 2.5% at full reading. So I assume the gauge is accurate at my test PSI and my relief is set a little low. Now I need to figure out how to increase the relief pressure. Does anyone have any first hand experience with Kioti DK tractor hydraulics?

I also measured all four outputs at the joystick-FEL couplings and they had similar pressure reading between the tested 1000 RPM - 2000 RPM. I did not test them at any higher RPM.

The 3' long, 1/4", 5800 PSI hose extension for the gauge is a valuable addition, as it allows me to test any coupling location and still view the gauge from the tractor seat. I also have a 18" long, 3/8", 5000 PSI hose to use as an extension, should that be necessary, along with the couplings and fittings that may be needed.