Canopy Install Advice

[ritcheyvs]

I plan to install my new Perry (same as Wells?) steel canopy, probably tomorrow, so I thought I'd check for any tips or hints before the main event. The canopy looks very nice but it did not include installation instructions so I thought I'd ask here.

My plan is to mount the brackets on the ROPS with the tops of the brackets level with the top of the ROPS, the top U-bolt snug, and the bottom U-bolt somewhat lose. The lose bottom U-bolt will allow the brackets to cant inward slightly to provide more clearance between the brackets and the inside of the angle iron frame on the actual canopy. Then I plan to get a neighbor's help to hoist the canopy into place and for him to help hold the front end (and wiggle as required) while I start the four bolts that faten the canopy frame to the ROPS brackets. I think the first and last bolt may be tricky. I Also saved a length of 2x4 to place between the canopy and tractor floor to hold up the front end of the canopy (in case we need a break). After I get the canopy securely mounted to the brackets, I'll see if I can lower it any by sliding the U-bolts down the ROPS (maybe an inch?). I have limited clearance under my lean-to so I'd like to mount the canopy as low as possible.

That's my plan but I know some of you have actually done this job on similar (maybe identical?) canopies. So I'm soliciting any advice. Thanks.

Scott

 

[nc redneck]

I installed mine with a overhead electric winch I have. You may be able to do the same thing under your lean to with some ratchet straps or come-a -longs. I would try to make sure it is level and squared with tractor. Mine was off a inch or so from factory but it had a easy slide left and right adjustment.
After a year or so you may find that bouncing around and additional weight will start to flare ends of your ROPS stop bolts. Mine did and it is aluminum. I ended up replacing them with grade 8 metric and some wedges that distributed the load better.
Scott

 

[k0ua]

All I can remember was it took me and the salesman and his lovely wife to install it with darkness coming on. We messed with and adjusted for an hour to get it straight. She was instrumental in holding the front end up and we messed with trying to get it symmetrical and straight. it wasn't that it was so heavy but just awkward to move around and adjust. Sorry I can't be of more help.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I have some updates and a request for more advice:

The canopy is definitely a Perry Ardvark, according to the shipping paperwork. It's about 47 inches wide and 58 inches long. After reading advice here (and reconsidering the difficulty of manually hoisting it) I came up with a new plan. I dug out an old 4-part block and tackle and hoisted the canopy from a tree branch. Then I drove the tractor underneath and lowered the canopy as needed to install the bolts. Here's a photo:



The canopy came without any assembly instructions. So before tightening the nuts so I thought I'd ask for guidance/help here. Specifically:
1. Do the mounting brackets/plates install with the angled side forward or aft? Does it matter?
2. Are the mounting brackets/plates designed to attach to the inside or outside of the angle frame of the canopy?
3. Should the heads of the bolts that hold the bracket to the canopy frame be on the inside or outside? Does it matter?
4. Should the brackets attach to the forward or aft set of holes in the canopy frame? Is it purely user preference?

I also emailed Perry Co with the same questions but don't know if or when they'll respond.

Thanks for any help.

Scott

 

[k0ua]

The way you have it looks correct to me only try to angle down the front some more.

 

[coobie]

Looks good.I agree with kOua angle it down some more.

 

[Ranchofla]

James,

What do you have in the bottom of the barrel rocks or concrete? Also how does the barrel attach to the three point, curious as that looks a bit better than my quick built counter weight.

Thanks

Rancho

 

[k0ua]

James,

What do you have in the bottom of the barrel rocks or concrete? Also how does the barrel attach to the three point, curious as that looks a bit better than my quick built counter weight.

Thanks

Rancho

Concrete. Inside it is a Tractor supply "Cat 1 Drawbar with some angle Iron bolted to that for the uprights for the top link, and then the rear 2 inch reciever has a piece of 5/8 all thread thru the drawbar then welded to the 2 inch receiver and then some rebar welded at angles onto the 2 inch and to the drawbar too. Fill the whole mess with concrete leaving room at the top for chain and miscellaneous storage.

 

[ritcheyvs]

To close out this thread, Perry Co never responded to my email asking the questions in post 4, above. The canopy came with no instructions (see http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...opy-painted-steel-aluminum-3.html#post3804520).. So I called Perry Co and spoke with a nice lady who emailed me some instructions:

View attachment Aardvark Canopy Installation.bmp

She also said the side brackets should attach to the outside of the canopy frame (I had them inside). My canopy was still supported by a block-and-tackle (post 4 photo) so I just made the required changes, let the front of the canopy drop to its natural position and snugged all the nuts. I lowered the side brackets slightly such that the ROPS is almost touching the insulation under the canopy.

In retrospect, using a hoist was vastly better than getting 2-3 folks to lift the canopy into position. With the hoist, it was an easy one-person job.

Then I gave it a trial run as I mowed a couple acres of field. This steel canopy is slightly smaller (47 in by 58 in) than the fiberglass canopies (http://www.tractorsunshade.com) sold by local tractor dealers but it still provided useful shade and I think it is less likely to get damaged in the woods.

The only issue at this point is that the whole ROPS/canopy rocks fore and aft slightly as I traverse rough ground. Tightening the screw at the ROPS base helped but did not eliminate this motion. Based on inputs from NC Redneck, I'll try to fashion some metal wedges to eliminate slack at the ROPS bottom pivot. Redneck advises that this motion will destroy the stock screw before long. I may also try a bungee (from the canopy to the loader cross piece) to eliminate the fore-aft rocking. Any other suggestions are welcome.

 

[nc redneck]

Ritcheyvs
The reason I put wedges on my Kioti is after replacing factory turn knobs down with grade 8 bolts it started to dimple the ROPS. Wedges distributed the load over a wider surface area. Nice tractor and canopy by the way.
Try having someone else pick up hard on front of canopy and adjust bolts or if you are like me and on your own rehook to tree and put upward pressure on it. Adjust and work it for a few days see what happens.
Other
Scott