Question on DK45SE HST 50-hour Service

[taw1126]

All-
I'm still pretty far away from the 50-hour service (only have 1 weekend/10 hours so far) but wanted to run something the dealer told me by existing Kioti owners.

When I picked up the tractor I was told to change engine oil & filter at 50 hours, as well as both hydraulic system filters (no other service to transmission/hydraulic system). I was also told that I "would probably never need to change front axle oil".

Looking at the Kioti manual last night it's pretty clear that the manufacturer recommends changing engine oil, hydraulic fluid, front axle, and all filters at 50 hours (with 4 filters and 15+ gallons of lube this looks to be a pretty lengthy job, but probably cheap insurance in the long term).

Obviously I trust Kioti's recommendations over the dealer, but I was hoping others would be willing to share what service they performed at the 50-hour mark.

Thanks,
Trey

 

[grm61]

Lots of threads on this...I did engine oil and filters, and Hyd oil and filters at 50, then engine again at the next 50.
I got lots of crap out of the hyd fluid, run it around good before you drain it, to get things stirred up good and suspended in the oil.

Some guys don't do the hydro..I am glad I did...do a search, all kind of threads on this.

 

[tulenutn2o]

I follow the manual pretty much to the t. Just look at it this way, that tractor is gonna be your best friend for a long time, take care of it and it will not let you down. My advice, never scrimp on maintenance.

 

[VictorW]

I did everything at 50 hours like the manual advised and continued on with the filters and oils at the later hour intervals. Others will have different opinions as has been discussed in previous posts. My hydro oil had metal dust and small chips in it which I guess the filters should catch and not be passed through the system. Front axle oil was pretty much clean but you don't know that until it's draining. I figured cheap insurance, knew what was in there along with learning the tractor, and if something did happen under warranty, I could show that I followed Kioti's service schedule.

 

[taw1126]

Thanks all. Didn't realize this was a common issue so didn't think to search (but I will). I maintain my trucks at or before recommended intervals (and tend to be rewarded with long life & few problems) and the Kioti will be treated the same. But I'm surprised the dealer recommended something different than the factory maintenance schedule.

 

[k0ua]

I did the whole banana at 50 hours, and as others have stated many don't change their hydraulic fluid until 400 hours. There is a conflict between the owners and service manuals is one reason for the two different approaches to this. I would disregard the dealers advice on not changing the front axle fluid. I would change it at the 50 hours, and did just that. Don't forget that sometimes manufactures do not clean out the machining swarf out of castings all that well, and there is NO filtration in the front axle at all, so any particle in there are just bouncing around in the fluid. Be prepared for difficulty getting that stinking hydraulic filter off. That's the one by the right rear tire. I recommend a chain wrench. I had a heck of a time getting it off the first time as does everyone. They have a special gorilla tighten that one up. I didn't have any problems with the engine oil or hydrostatic filters.

If you change your main sump hydraulic fluid be sure to get the two drains by the rear tires to drain the final drives also as well as the large 32mm main drain plug.
Of course you will not need to worry about how to prevent fluid loss when you change the filters if you choose this option. BUT if you choose to not drain the main sump and just change the filters, you will need a strategy to not lose fluid while changing the hydraulic filter. You know, the one the gorilla put on by the right rear tire. There are 3 strategy's, I will outline here.

1: the vacuum cleaner to the fill port. This sucks air in when you loosen the hydraulic filter and helps prevent oil loss out the filter ports as air is going in the filter ports so oil cannot get out.
2: My own idea, which worked perfectly at the last filter only change of screwing a no. 8 machine screw into the filler/vent crook hole. this prevents air from entering the top of the "tank" and if air cannot get in to the top of the tank, then oil cannot escape out the bottom of the filter ports, or very little oil can get out. I lost about 2 ounces of oil. DO NOT forget to remove this screw, if you don't it will blow the dipstick out of its hole when you lower the lift cylinders. Don't ask how I know this.

3: Just be darn quick in getting the old filter off and getting the new filter screwed on.. This is what most mechanics use, because they don't care that it loses about a gallon of fluid, they just top it off and charge you for the fluid.

Good luck in whatever you decide.

 

[k0ua]

Here is a picture of the fill port stopper/ crooked air vent plug that I stopped up with a no. 8 machine screw. It is on the back of the tractor .

 

[rmorey]

Here is a picture of the fill port stopper/ crooked air vent plug that I stopped up with a no. 8 machine screw. It is on the back of the tractor .

View attachment 384017

That James is always "screwing" with something! :laughing:

 

[rmorey]

Here is a picture of the fill port stopper/ crooked air vent plug that I stopped up with a no. 8 machine screw. It is on the back of the tractor .

View attachment 384017

That James is always "screwing" with something! :laughing:

 

[k0ua]

That James is always "screwing" with something! :laughing:

Always searching for a better way to "skin the cat"

This method of blocking off the air vent beats the heck out of just trying to change the filter really quick, and the one time I tried the vacuum cleaner trick, it worked but when the air bubbles come up thru the tank and burst, you get the oil spray sucked up into the vacuum cleaner, which yuk's it up.