2010 DK40 SE won't start

[TimbourLarry]

Thanks again for all your help in solving my last starting problem. The tractor has been running like a top until yesterday when I started getting a click when I turn the starter key. I had not started the tractor in three weeks and assumed that it was simply a weak battery. I jump started the tractor successfully and ran it for about 45 minutes. I then parked it behind my wife's car to check the fluid levels, and you guessed it,(never park a tractor behind your wife's car) I could not get it to start again and all I got was repeated clicks when turning the key. After going through a checklist of potential solutions for two hours all I got was repeated clicks from the relay. However, after cleaning the positive battery terminal for a second time it fired right up but then died after five seconds. The starter is now working perfectly but the engine will not start and I may have contributed to this failure. While trying to find a solution I switched the wires in the first and third relays. Now when I turn the key I clearly hear the click of the stop solenoid but I'm also hearing a second click so I don't think it is holding. Is it possible when I switched the wires on the relays that I burned the solenoid or one of the relays? As always, thank you for your collective assistance.

 

[TimbourLarry]

Thanks again for all your help in solving my last starting problem. The tractor has been running like a top until yesterday when I started getting a click when I turn the starter key. I had not started the tractor in three weeks and assumed that it was simply a weak battery. I jump started the tractor successfully and ran it for about 45 minutes. I then parked it behind my wife's car to check the fluid levels, and you guessed it,(never park a tractor behind your wife's car) I could not get it to start again and all I got was repeated clicks when turning the key. After going through a checklist of potential solutions for two hours all I got was repeated clicks from the relay. However, after cleaning the positive battery terminal for a second time it fired right up but then died after five seconds. The starter is now working perfectly but the engine will not start and I may have contributed to this failure. While trying to find a solution I switched the wires in the first and third relays. Now when I turn the key I clearly hear the click of the stop solenoid but I'm also hearing a second click so I don't think it is holding. Is it possible when I switched the wires on the relays that I burned the solenoid or one of the relays? As always, thank you for your collective assistance.

Please help me get out of wife jail. It's a holiday and her car is still blocked. Thanks

 

[k0ua]

Please help me get out of wife jail. It's a holiday and her car is still blocked. Thanks

Run to the auto parts store, and take one of the relays with you.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I'm a little confused. I think you said that the starter now cranks fine but the engine won't start?

By the way, what year is your tractor? I'm assuming it is a later model that uses the 3-wire stop solenoid, but that could be wrong.

If my assumptions are correct, I would check the 10 amp engine stop fuse and the key switch (which provides the "hold" current to the stop solenoid). Physically remove the fuse and test it with an ohm meter or put in a new fuse. Test the key switch by turning the switch to the"on" position. You should hear a fairly loud clack as the stop solenoid retracts. Then turn on your headlights: if they are fairly bright you have good power flow through the key switch If they are very dim you may have a switch problem; squirt it, clean it, or replace it.

You may also have a battery cable problem. I discounted this possibility because (I think) you said it cranks fine and because it did not quit until you turned it off. But an intermittent battery cable would also cause your symptoms. Perhaps you temporarily "fixed" a bad cable when you jiggled it to clean the battery post. There are several reports of these cables failing from corrosion under the insulation where it is not visible.

There is one other thing I hesitate to mention. Check all those other things first but a failed injection pump (broken gear teeth) usually manifests as: ran fine, stopped normally, would not restart. Given that you have been swapping relays, etc. it's more likely you have a bad relay or fuse. So work that angle first.

As background, when you turn the switch to "ON" the glow relay, the stop solenoid "pull" relay, and the stop solenoid should all operate at almost the same time. The stop solenoid is loud. The other two are not so loud and you probably won't hear them unless you are very close to the relay (you can probably feel them better than hearing them).

Good luck

 

[TimbourLarry]

Thanks guys for your kind assistance and advice for future problems, if any. I went to the auto parts store and matched the Stop Solenoid relay and it started like a charm. it is still amazing that this started with a dirty positive battery post. I had put grease on top of the post to reduce corrosion and over time the grease seeped between the terminal and post and apparently broke the connection.
Hope everyone had a good Labor Day and thanks again.

 

[kengreen]

I have a similar problem with my Bobcat DK 45 HST. The gear shift lights won't come on and the engine won't start. I took out the potentiometer by removing seat and tested it. It seems to work OK going smoothly from about 20 ohms to 1850 ohms after cleaning the contacts. I reassembled it but the gear lights still don't come on. Any way to test the Pre Heat-Cruise module next to the potentiomenter? I would rather not order one and find out it is not the problem. Any other suggestions?