DK40HST Won't Start.

[Nick61]

Here we go again. I had this problem 6 months ago and I have it again. Just a different problem now. The tractor wont start. I turn the ignition switch on and I have dash lights. I try to start and i get and hear nothing. I swap connectors on the relays on the firewall and it still wont start. I put a jumper wire into the starter connection after unplugging from the relay and she fires up. I also try to wiggle the key in the ignition switch and that does nothing. I got a lot of help on this one back then, I'm hoping I can get this fixed quick. It's a pain doing the jumper wire every time i need to start. Well, at least it starts. I have also cleaned the negative and positive battery cables.

Thanks,
Nick

 

[TJP89]

Sounds like it may be the ignition switch, which has been a problem with Kioti. Do you hear the glow plugs click on? Have you checked the battery? (I assume yes) Sounds like the starting system works, but either the battery is weak or the switch is bad or there is something loose between the switch and starter.

 

[GreenWannabe]

Or perhaps your battery cables are corroded inside the insulation, or at the connectors.

 

[Nick61]

I do get the click when I turn the key switch to on. I let the glow plug light go out (if its cold) and I turn to start and I get nothing. I cleaned the terminals as well as the ground to the frame.

thanks,
Nick

 

[phiferpharm]

Most of us have either had to replace the ignition switch or will at some point. Depending on the age of your tractor, this is a weak point in older Kioti's.

 

[Coyote machine]

Check your fuse block too, for any loose or corroded connections and get your selling dealer to get you a replacement ignition switch. Your battery post connections have to be shiny metal clean as well as the inside of the cable clamps. Any corrosion inside the plastic insulation may indicate a internal cable corrosion. What year tractor, and how many hours on the clock?

 

[k0ua]

We new d to know what the start relay is doing. When you say it won't start, I assume you mean it won't crank. From memory I think the start relay is the one on the left , glow plug is the one in the center and fuel solenoid is on the right. With the hood open and looking towards the seat.

Measure for voltage on the coil contacts while assistant turns key. If no voltage on coil. Problem is toward key switch. If voltage when key switch is turned then measure contacts .

 

[Nick61]

Yes won't crank, I also discovered that this doesn't happen when the tractor is cold. When it gets to operating temp and I am running it for a while that is when it wont crank over. She started up this morning. I was going to run some voltage tests. I will try in a little bit when I have it running for a while.

Thanks, Nick

 

[murphy1244]

If its heat related it might be a bad connection.

 

[ritcheyvs]

... I put a jumper wire into the starter connection after unplugging from the relay and she fires up. I also try to wiggle the key in the ignition switch and that does nothing....

This is NOT a battery cable problem.

Nick: Please clarify exactly what you are jumpering to make it crank. Are you jumping pins on the connector for the start relay? Or ate you jumping at the starter?

When you first turn the key, the loud "clack" is the stop solenoid retracting; that's normal and it's what allows the injection pump to send fuel to the injectors.

You probably can't hear the glow relay (because of the loud stop solenoid) but the fact it starts cold implies the glow system is working. If is still started good cold after swapping the relays, both (start and glow) relays are likely OK unless it's really heat-related.

It could be the ignition switch (which I doubt) but here's a test for that. When it won't crank, unplug the switch and (on the engine-side connector) simultaneously jump from the 12x input to the start and "on" leads. For that matter, you could short all four leads together. If the switch is the problem it should crank when you do this but I suspect it won't. I suspect your problem is in the cruise unit, which provides the ground signal for the start relay coil.

This cruise unit has a safety feature to prevent starting in gear or if the PTO is engaged. Do you get a good neutral lamp on the dash before you try to crank? If not, that's your problem. Are you sure the PTO is not engaged? If you can locate the coil ground wire at the start relay, you can test this by measuring the voltage on that wire when you turn the key to crank. With the key "off" or just "on" you should see near zero volts on that wire. When you turn the key to crank, you should still see near zero volts on that wire if the cruise unit is providing the ground to allow cranking. If you see near 12v on that wire when you try to crank, either the cruise unit is not working or it is getting a faulty input that indicates you are not in neutral or the PTO is engaged. Be sure you are looking at the ground-side of the coil and not the 12v side that comes from the ignition switch.

Assuming the cruise unit appears to not be working right, you can test that by jumping the ground side of the start relay to chassis ground, which bypasses the safeties of the cruise unit. Just be careful you have the right wire or you'll blow fuses. If it starts normally when you do this you need to determine if the cruise unit is bad of if the neutral or PTO input is bad.