Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,660
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
No starts, battery & charging systems, similar electrical problems: Team Kioti Fixes.
I'd like to create, with the help of other key 'Team Kioti' members, knowledgeable about certain common electrical issues, a thread that may become a 'sticky' note for Kioti and other TBN members to refer to for solutions to frequent electrical problems.
I'll start the discussion with what is often posted on this and other TBN forums about tractors and similar equipment that have no start, dead batteries and similar charging system issues.
The beginning: No prior level of knowledge is assumed on the part of the reader, so keeping things in basic understandable terms is the starting point here... The battery and related components. One of the first things to know about any tractor battery is it needs to have a steady charge state to last it's anticipated life. This means it needs to be used regularly, and if it sits for any amount of time it must have a 'battery tender' connected to a 120Volt source to keep it's charge above 80%, otherwise it will have a shorter life than expected.
When preparing for the winter months soon upon most of us the first thing to do is access battery condition, and correct any problems now while it is still fall and not wait until dead of winter. Using proper safety items like glasses, gloves, no jewelry on hands/wrists etc., one can visually inspect their battery and it surrounding areas. Also make sure your tractor is in neutral, no key in the ignition, wheels are chocked, and all implements are on the ground/floor, etc. Some if not most batteries allow for the OP to add water to the split ring level under a removable cap on the top of the battery. If with a visual inspection one finds some cells to be low on water/electrolyte, then carefully add preferably distilled water, NEVER add acid to a battery!, to the top of the split ring in each cell. Then replace the cap(s). Next carefully loosen and remove the negative post clamp and place the clamp and cable aside, so it cannot reconnect itself to the negative battery post if it gets knocked loose. Then remove the positive post clamp and place it away from the positive post.
If the battery is several years old and it shows any signs of poor starts,etc. now might be a good time to have it load tested at a reliable auto store, or your favorite mechanic's shop. Load testing is done AFTER the battery is fully charged and allowed to sit long enough to 'cool down', after charging. Then a load like the starter or headlights is applied to determine how well the battery performs when the load is applied. If it drops down to a discharged state rapidly it has failed the load test and will likely need replacing. Other tests that show the batteries ability to perform are a specific gravity test, which shows the condition of each cell of the battery against the value it should be. This can indicate problems with a particular cell, or several cells that could be keeping the battery from delivering current when needed. Tests like specific gravity can be done by the DIYer with a simple tester available at most auto stores. Load testing is best left to places with the more expensive equipment needed to perform the test.
So for discussion purposes let's say one has a new battery and it's ready to go. You've installed it and taken emory cloth or sandpaper and cleaned both the negative and positive post clamps inside and out untill you now have clean shiny metal. Now follow the negative post down to where it bolts to the frame/chassis. Unbolt it and clean everything until the metal shines. If needed, replace the possibly rusted bolt with a new one and then coat the bolt threads with copper anti-seize or regular, if copper isn't readily available. Tighten the bolt then clean off any additional anti-seize and spray the bolt/cable end and any exposed/bare metal on the frame with battery protection spray. Do the same process at each battery post. I add the felt red and green washers over each post then anti-seize the clamps inside, then tighten each down, starting with the positive, then the negative. Using cardboard, cover the battery while spraying each post/clamp until they are completely covered with battery protector. Once everything is complete, then clear away all tools, etc. and note on your maintenance chart when the service was done and at what hours. Still check the battery post periodically as well as the ground, (negative cable) at the frame and reapply spray or anti-seize as needed.
Now that gets us started on battery condition, install of a new battery, etc.
I'd like to ask KOua or Richeyvs to write about what to do when trying to troubleshoot a dead battery with a meter, (VOM), multimeter, etc. Please include warnings about what not to do around the starter solenoid, starter hot feed, etc.
(I think if we keep this a step by step progress through the charging system, then starting circuit, ignition switch, fuse box, relays, etc., we may end up saving ourselves, and hopefully some TBN members from us having to explain certain things each of us to date has done too many times, with IMHO, no real single location to refer to as a source for the information we might be able to detail here for easy reference to one detailed thread we could add to as needed).
I'm hoping you guys will choose to contribute some of your vast knowledge to this thread. I know I would appreciate it....
I'd like to create, with the help of other key 'Team Kioti' members, knowledgeable about certain common electrical issues, a thread that may become a 'sticky' note for Kioti and other TBN members to refer to for solutions to frequent electrical problems.
I'll start the discussion with what is often posted on this and other TBN forums about tractors and similar equipment that have no start, dead batteries and similar charging system issues.
The beginning: No prior level of knowledge is assumed on the part of the reader, so keeping things in basic understandable terms is the starting point here... The battery and related components. One of the first things to know about any tractor battery is it needs to have a steady charge state to last it's anticipated life. This means it needs to be used regularly, and if it sits for any amount of time it must have a 'battery tender' connected to a 120Volt source to keep it's charge above 80%, otherwise it will have a shorter life than expected.
When preparing for the winter months soon upon most of us the first thing to do is access battery condition, and correct any problems now while it is still fall and not wait until dead of winter. Using proper safety items like glasses, gloves, no jewelry on hands/wrists etc., one can visually inspect their battery and it surrounding areas. Also make sure your tractor is in neutral, no key in the ignition, wheels are chocked, and all implements are on the ground/floor, etc. Some if not most batteries allow for the OP to add water to the split ring level under a removable cap on the top of the battery. If with a visual inspection one finds some cells to be low on water/electrolyte, then carefully add preferably distilled water, NEVER add acid to a battery!, to the top of the split ring in each cell. Then replace the cap(s). Next carefully loosen and remove the negative post clamp and place the clamp and cable aside, so it cannot reconnect itself to the negative battery post if it gets knocked loose. Then remove the positive post clamp and place it away from the positive post.
If the battery is several years old and it shows any signs of poor starts,etc. now might be a good time to have it load tested at a reliable auto store, or your favorite mechanic's shop. Load testing is done AFTER the battery is fully charged and allowed to sit long enough to 'cool down', after charging. Then a load like the starter or headlights is applied to determine how well the battery performs when the load is applied. If it drops down to a discharged state rapidly it has failed the load test and will likely need replacing. Other tests that show the batteries ability to perform are a specific gravity test, which shows the condition of each cell of the battery against the value it should be. This can indicate problems with a particular cell, or several cells that could be keeping the battery from delivering current when needed. Tests like specific gravity can be done by the DIYer with a simple tester available at most auto stores. Load testing is best left to places with the more expensive equipment needed to perform the test.
So for discussion purposes let's say one has a new battery and it's ready to go. You've installed it and taken emory cloth or sandpaper and cleaned both the negative and positive post clamps inside and out untill you now have clean shiny metal. Now follow the negative post down to where it bolts to the frame/chassis. Unbolt it and clean everything until the metal shines. If needed, replace the possibly rusted bolt with a new one and then coat the bolt threads with copper anti-seize or regular, if copper isn't readily available. Tighten the bolt then clean off any additional anti-seize and spray the bolt/cable end and any exposed/bare metal on the frame with battery protection spray. Do the same process at each battery post. I add the felt red and green washers over each post then anti-seize the clamps inside, then tighten each down, starting with the positive, then the negative. Using cardboard, cover the battery while spraying each post/clamp until they are completely covered with battery protector. Once everything is complete, then clear away all tools, etc. and note on your maintenance chart when the service was done and at what hours. Still check the battery post periodically as well as the ground, (negative cable) at the frame and reapply spray or anti-seize as needed.
Now that gets us started on battery condition, install of a new battery, etc.
I'd like to ask KOua or Richeyvs to write about what to do when trying to troubleshoot a dead battery with a meter, (VOM), multimeter, etc. Please include warnings about what not to do around the starter solenoid, starter hot feed, etc.
(I think if we keep this a step by step progress through the charging system, then starting circuit, ignition switch, fuse box, relays, etc., we may end up saving ourselves, and hopefully some TBN members from us having to explain certain things each of us to date has done too many times, with IMHO, no real single location to refer to as a source for the information we might be able to detail here for easy reference to one detailed thread we could add to as needed).
I'm hoping you guys will choose to contribute some of your vast knowledge to this thread. I know I would appreciate it....
