Kioti Paul
Silver Member
I just completed replacing the 'pinion gears' (control sleeves) in the injector pump of my DK45S, & I would like to chip in my 2c worth on the subject. 1st, I would like to say what a fantastic resource these forums are! I really appreciate the "2881neches" tutorials on the removal & repair of his IP, OH MAN, I wish he had written our service manuals, life would be a lot easier. Also, I really appreciate "ritcheyvs" for all his work in compiling all the reports of the failures & solutions to the IP problems. Finally, all the people who have posted suggestions, solutions, & recommendations on shops to get service & parts are all greatly appreciated by me & I am sure by A LOT of others. I followed the suggestion from "brotsten", & called H&H Diesel Repair in Fife, Wa to get the parts. I can highly recommend them, they were very professional, & friendly. They had 3 of the sleeves in stock, got the 4th one the next day, & mailed them that same day. Less than a week after ordering them, they arrived at my front door in Texas! That's not bad, for ground shipping. Also, they charged $9.32 (each) for the sleeves ($63.32 total for 4 sleeves + shipping). These are the exact same Zexel gears the other shops sell for $25. Either price is still a huge bargain compared to the $1500 Kioti wants! My tractor is back to running as strong as ever, & for less than $100.. Thanks, Guys!!!
The main reason for I am writing is concerning 'timing' the new gears to the rack. As I read all the posts, I noticed a couple of posts asking about how to 're-time' the gears (I also had been wondering about it), & it seems to me that no one really addressed it. I think maybe no one has addressed it, because after you pull the springs & plungers out, it is pretty evident how they are timed, but still it's nice to know before you start. The rack has a thin radial groove that (when the rack is centered) lines up with the center line of each gear (control sleeve). Gears that have teeth all the way around them have a tiny 'timing' mark on one tooth that lines up with the radial groove on the rack. The gears that have a blank spot on them do not have the timing mark. There are 29 teeth around that gear. Use a 'sharpie' with contrasting color (silver, copper, etc) and mark the 15th tooth as counted from the 'blank' spot. Make sure that is the "1/2 way" tooth (exactly opposite the blank spot). When you have removed the spring, the plunger, & the spring seat, you can look through the bore, & clearly see the groove around the rack, & it is simple to line up the marks on the rack & the (control sleeve) gear.
When my pump failed, it stuck at about 3/4 throttle. That is a real eye opener!! My tractor has the manual shift transmission, so I was able to shift into high gear, pop the clutch, jam on the brakes, & stall out the engine. I thought right then that I was very lucky I didn't have the hydrostatic trans!! I then read a post where this same thing happened to a man that did have a hydrostatic transmission. I REALLY feel for that fella! What a helpless feeling that would have to be! Then I got to thinking about my lawn mower with a Kubota engine & hydrostatic trans. It turns out that it has an electric fuel pump, & after a little experimenting I found that when the pump is shut down (unplugged), the engine dies within a few seconds; so I guess I'm OK.
With a little searching, I found electrically operated, diesel fuel shutoff valves designed to shutoff unmanned, stationary engines in case of overheating, (or low oil pressure). They are a little pricey ($100 +/-), & I feel in my situation at least for now, I would be able to handle another 'runaway', even if full throttle. But if I ever get a tractor (any brand) with a hydrostatic trans, one of the first things I will do will be to devise a way to positively shut off the fuel (from the seat)!
The main reason for I am writing is concerning 'timing' the new gears to the rack. As I read all the posts, I noticed a couple of posts asking about how to 're-time' the gears (I also had been wondering about it), & it seems to me that no one really addressed it. I think maybe no one has addressed it, because after you pull the springs & plungers out, it is pretty evident how they are timed, but still it's nice to know before you start. The rack has a thin radial groove that (when the rack is centered) lines up with the center line of each gear (control sleeve). Gears that have teeth all the way around them have a tiny 'timing' mark on one tooth that lines up with the radial groove on the rack. The gears that have a blank spot on them do not have the timing mark. There are 29 teeth around that gear. Use a 'sharpie' with contrasting color (silver, copper, etc) and mark the 15th tooth as counted from the 'blank' spot. Make sure that is the "1/2 way" tooth (exactly opposite the blank spot). When you have removed the spring, the plunger, & the spring seat, you can look through the bore, & clearly see the groove around the rack, & it is simple to line up the marks on the rack & the (control sleeve) gear.
When my pump failed, it stuck at about 3/4 throttle. That is a real eye opener!! My tractor has the manual shift transmission, so I was able to shift into high gear, pop the clutch, jam on the brakes, & stall out the engine. I thought right then that I was very lucky I didn't have the hydrostatic trans!! I then read a post where this same thing happened to a man that did have a hydrostatic transmission. I REALLY feel for that fella! What a helpless feeling that would have to be! Then I got to thinking about my lawn mower with a Kubota engine & hydrostatic trans. It turns out that it has an electric fuel pump, & after a little experimenting I found that when the pump is shut down (unplugged), the engine dies within a few seconds; so I guess I'm OK.
With a little searching, I found electrically operated, diesel fuel shutoff valves designed to shutoff unmanned, stationary engines in case of overheating, (or low oil pressure). They are a little pricey ($100 +/-), & I feel in my situation at least for now, I would be able to handle another 'runaway', even if full throttle. But if I ever get a tractor (any brand) with a hydrostatic trans, one of the first things I will do will be to devise a way to positively shut off the fuel (from the seat)!