Oil & Fuel Kioti CK30 cranks but doesn't start

[Denislp]

Hi everybody, it's been a long time since I read many articles on this forum and I've taken lots of tricks and info. So here's my turn to share something with you. All happen when my CK30 (2013 300 hours) miss starting once in a while until it only cranked but didn't start anynore... All of i read before targeted to a wrong stop solenoid. So I passed to the dealer and came to my tractor to fix the bug. Took off the old on but before installing the new one, did a test with the old directly to a 12 Volt power supply... It WORKED!!! Ok now, 2nd run: the relay... Out of three of them (behind the engine, upper rignt when you sit on the seat), one to eliminate (the one with the most AMPs -60 or 70) the one that activates the glow plugs. Reminds the two identical others 30/20 AMPs. One for the stop solenoid and the other for the starter. So, it was still cranking... Unplugged one, and tried to start. Unplugged the other and tried to start. The one that makes the starter didn't work is the starter relay. So the stop solenoid relay is the other. Mine was the middle relay. Foremost outside relay is the starter relay. Did try many tests with a meter but I was fooling myself... Next day, went to the dealer, bring back stop solenoid (135$ Can) and bought a 30/20 AMPs relay. Put it instead my other stop solenoid relay and... Same problem. OK, let's think about that.... Why a brand new relay doesn't output signal? Or it is a defect part or there's no input current! I put the good relay remaining (starter relay) instead the new one i'd just put in, and turned the ignition key slowly at all positions hoping to hear the click from the stop solenoid and kept my hand on it to fell the click in case of I couldn't hear it... Guess what? Nothing! Replaced the starter solenoid where it came. Unplugged the stop solenoid relay (middle one) to have access to the terminal with my meter. VERY VERY IMPORTANT Next is-That's what I should have done FIRST. So, with a probe of my meter on the ground and the other on the first pin of the terminal (and the ignition key to off), I wrote the value (0 or 12V). I did the same all the 4 others pins and every pins each others. After that I turned the ignition key to the other position. Did the same with every pins and wrote down. Did the same with ignition key to the other positions.... And guess what??? All the results were the same even if the ignition switch was moved from a position to another... And the result: Faulty switch (I thought). Next step: Unscrewed the switch cylinder-nut and took off the 10 mm bolts that retain the two plastic panels (not completely took off the contour one). Took the switch out of the plastic panel and unplugged the terminal. There's 5 pins in the terminal (switch side). The pin 1 is the master. Put the ohmmeter and clipped the pin 1 with red probe (Pin 1 is the first on the left when the 3 pins are upside and the 2 pins are downside). The switch is at OFF position. Put the black probe on pin 2 and wrote the result. Did the same with black probe on pin 3, 4, 5 and wrote down the result (continuity or no continuity). Next, I moved the swith to its next position. Checked the result between pins 1 and 2, 1 and 3, 1 and 4, 1 and 5. Turned again the switch key to the next position and wrote the results. Guess what: All the results were the same!!! -Even if the switch key was turned to a different position, no different readings!!! WOUASHHHH:-( Ok, Disassembled the ignition switch. Be careful, before unscrewing the little screw, do some alignment marks, (scratches or ink) to get the reassembling easier. So after unscrewing the little screw, you can disassemble th plastic case from the other part and check the copper piece inside to check it for corrosion (like and old penny). That's what I saw. So I took a sand paper (320) (You can use a steel wool) and rubbed it on the surelevated parts (picture) and on the points (other part). Reassembling was easy, thanks to the alignments marks. Did the ignition switch tests again with my ohmmeter and Watatow! New readings on my meter when I moved position on the switch! Brought it back to my CK30, connected the terminal before assembling the plastic panels. Checked if all relays were well connected, turned slowly the ignition switch while having my hands on the stop solenoid (and away from the fan)... And YES!!! The nice CLICK went through my hands and my ears!!! What a feeling and a proudness! So did the whole process (wait until the glow plug light turned off and turned to start the engine). Never started so well (1/4 of a turn and vroom or clack-clack-clack like a true diesel). Reassemble the plastic panels and that's all folks! So this is my story and hope it could help anyone! Thanks to all of you for other sharings, Denis, Québec, Canada

 

[ksbrdmkr]

What I get from your trials is to start at the battery and work your way to to what component when dealing with electrical problems.

 

[davrow]

Thanks for the write up, Denis!

 

[k0ua]

Feels good to figure things out on your own and fix them doesn't it?:thumbsup:

 

[Denislp]

Yes,,, Really!

 

[Denislp]

Yes..Really!

 

[Denislp]

Right on! This is called "Experience"....:thumbsup:

 

[k0ua]

Right on! This is called "Experience"....:thumbsup:

I bought my first Volt Ohm Meter (VOM) when I was 12. That was about 50 years ago, I still have it and it still works well. I quickly learned how to repair things, which led to a career as a technician for several decades and later as an engineer designing phone and data systems which I have been putting in and maintaining for all of those years. I am now starting over as a Independent insurance agent focusing on the senior market (I am a senior myself) But that start of learning how to repair things and use the scientific method to troubleshoot has served me well.

 

[ritcheyvs]

My DK45S had similar symptoms and the key switch was the cause. But in my case, dirty switch prevented the glow plugs from getting power.