Ballast To load or not to load. That is the question.

[kas2960]

Well, finally pulled the pin and bought a new CK4010H. Should be getting it next week. Had a couple of the farmers stop by for a pop and both gave me a tongue lashing for not loading the tires In their own words. You'll be sorry. What is everyone else experience with this? I will be doing firewood and pushing snow around in the winter and what ever else presents itself for loader work. Thanks.

 

[jeff9366]

Perhaps the most controversial of TBN topics.

I have sandy-loam in Florida. I never have mud, nor clay, nor snow, to deal with.

I have had three tractors, each larger, each with 4-WD. My last tractor and current tractor have carried FELs. All three have been shod with R4/Industrial Tires filled only with air.

I try not to compact my soil. The only time I intentionally compact my soil is when I roll in very small seeds with my Cultipacker, in a limited area.

When I need counterbalance, perhaps 25% of engine operating hours, I mount a heavy implement on the Three Point Hitch.


Filling rear tires is good if you have sloped ground to deal with. Filling rear tires lowers the center-of-gravity for the tractor. (But first move rear tires further apart, if possible.)

Filling rear tires may be necessary for adequate traction on tractors with 2-WD, but NEW tractors with 2-WD are a very small category.

A'hm for air.


TBN ARCHIVE: FILLED VS AIR IN TIRES SITE:TRACTORBYNET.COM - Google Search

 

[George2615]

Without loaded tires I notice the rear end gets light doing loader work or plowing snow. Moving snow consists of 50% of my tractor use so I loaded mine with WW fluid and use chains. I do have several 3 pt attachments for rear ballast but did not need rear ballast last season. I prefer not having something sticking out 6-8' behind me as I plow in some tight areas. For real heavy loader work in summer I do use a 1100 lb rear ballast weight.
If you use chains to plow snow try it without filling the tires. You can always fill them later.

 

[ritcheyvs]

In case you don't know, you NEVER want to lift your rear wheels off the ground. The front axle provides no lateral stability because it pivots. If you lift the rear wheels and the tractor starts to roll, it can flop right over unless you get the back down, and fast.

 

[/pine]

CUTs and SCUTs are so much lighter than full size tractors...loading the rears is the most logical to make for some weight/traction...

If older full size tractors (7K#'s +/-)...had 4 wheel drive...they would not have needed to load the rears with calcium etc.....

 

[holeycow]

There should be no controversy. More weight is almost always better and the best place to put that weight is in the rear tires.

There's probably not a loader tractor built that doesn't benefit from filled rears.

 

[kas2960]

Seems like the consensus is to load. Thanks jeff9366 for the link. I sort of like the idea of the ballast box. How much weight does the beet juice add to the tractor? I have the industrial tire installed. I was hoping to buy a rear snow blower for this winter. Would that compensate?

 

[George2615]

Seems like the consensus is to load. Thanks jeff9366 for the link. I sort of like the idea of the ballast box. How much weight does the beet juice add to the tractor? I have the industrial tire installed. I was hoping to buy a rear snow blower for this winter. Would that compensate?

Beet Juice (Rimguard) weighs about 10.7-11 lbs.per gallon compared to water or washer fluid which weighs about 8.3 lbs per gallon.
Using a rear snow blower for ballast is only good when the 3 pt has it lifted off the ground. Once it's on the ground it's no longer ballast.

 

[VictorW]

Just another thought. When loading, if the valve is at the top of the tire and the fluid is all the way to the valve, then you're at 85% full. If you think you don't need that much weight or are worried about compacting your soil to much, go @50%. If that is works, great. If not, you can always fill more. As mentioned, you want some weight in your rear tires or something on your 3pt when your loader is full of heavy material or the back will feel light and it's definitely not fun to drive that way. Winter traction with the R4 tires is greatly improved too.

 

[k0ua]

You need both loaded tires and rear weight. You won't always have the rear weight on the back to give you additional traction. When you are pulling a blade or some other ground engaging implement, you sure are not going to have a rear weight on, and you will really appreciate being able to move your tractor. Pushing or blading snow strains your traction limits considerably.