Oil & Fuel Which lubericant?

[ron45]

During my quest for info on the drain plugs under the transmission, it was mentioned that the two cases on the inside each rear wheel would also get new hydraulic fluid. A buddy who is a heavy equipment mechanic for Lincoln County, thought they should get 80w90 like my front axel. Which of these would be correct? If I open one of the drain plugs a little, and the fluid is almost clear would that not militate toward hydraulic fluid. I'd expect the 80/90 to be quite a bit darker. Is my thinking ok on this or does someone know for sure? [as it pertains to my LK3054]thanks very much for your time.

Ron

 

[ritcheyvs]

If I understand your question (and extrapolating from CK and DK designs I've seen) these are the final drive reduction gears which are lubed by the same hydraulic fluid from the common sump. But these are low spots where crap can collect so they have their own drains.

 

[ron45]

Thank you ritcheyvs. That got me thinking, how come the front axle gets 80/90, and the transmission which is under the same loads mostly... gets what seems to be a much lighter oil. I guess that's why I'm not a tractor mechanic. I appreciate you taking the time to help.

Also, sincere apologies to whoever told me to drain those while I had the tranny cace open, [ was that you richeyvs? I didn't do it. So now I'm thinking..... what if I drain a quart of fluid or so from each one .... and here's the question, does anyone think that's enough to get the worst of it out. OR gulp, have I sullied the whole new batch of oil I just put in.

Ron

 

[ritcheyvs]

Again referring to CK/DK, it's OK to use either 80/90 or tractor hydraulic fluid in the front axle. Folks here at TBN say the tractor comes from the factory (or maybe distributor) with tractor hydraulic fluid in the front axle. I bought my DK used so I don't really know. I don't have any LK manuals so I can't swear this is also true for LKs, but I suspect it is.

I only see one (possible) problem draining a small amount of fluid from each final drive casing: getting the plug back in the hole. All my drain plugs (DK45S) had big magnets to capture iron/steel debris. Those magnets made it hard to get the threads started when I reinstalled the plug. This would have been much harder with oil pouring out the hole. On the other hand, if you park on a hill and do the (high side) you probably won't lose much fluid.

This is all theoretical on my part because my DK45S has a planetary final drive that drains back into the main sump; no low spots and no drain plugs. Maybe a real SE owner can offer real experience.

 

[mrmikey]

....and the transmission which is under the same loads mostly... gets what seems to be a much lighter oil....

As was said, it's also the hydraulic oil as well as the transmission.
The front diff uses a different type of gear configuration, a hypoid setup which has more sliding friction that a typical straight gear setup and needs oil with different specs to allow for the rubbing for lack of a better name.
The transmission uses mostly straight gears as well as a hydraulic pump and therefore requires a lighter oil with different specs again.

I only see one (possible) problem draining a small amount of fluid from each final drive casing: getting the plug back in the hole

Yup for sure. I just last week picked up a 2011 Iseki TM3160 manual trans tractor and changed all the fluids. When I unscrewed the first plug there was quite a bit of flow, especially if you try to put the plug back in. It had a strong enough force to splash off the inside of the tire.
Personally, I would drain a bit of it from each side. Try setting up a vacuum cleaner so it's sucking on the fill and then remove the plug, then get a helper to slowly remove the vacuum cleaner hose 'till the oil starts coming out, drain a liter or two and get the helper to put the hose back on and do the same to the other side.
On mine, I used WalMart tractor oil, after I bought it, the local Co-op had their brand on, 20L for $5 less where WM's was 18.9L. It called for Shell DonaxTD which isn't made anymore, replaced by Spirax. I checked around and the WM brand is acceptable as is the Co-op.......Mike

 

[jabelding]

The rear Axel uses hypoid gears in the differential the same as the front also use lots of helical in the trans mission and rear end. As said before the front axle can use trans/hydraulic or 80/90 gear oil both are very similar and provide the protection needed. Tractor transmission hydraulic fluid has modifiers to deal with the sliding friction.
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