Preferred Breakaway Clamp?

[ritcheyvs]

I see two types of breakaway setups. One uses a bulkhead drilled for the collar like this one on Brian's site

and the other uses a bracket that attaches at a single point and appears to swivel like this.


Which is better? It looks like the bulkhead type could really be connected with one hand but the swivel type may ensure forces are better-aligned in case of breakaway. What do folks here think? Can anyone comment on actual experience with either?

 

[ritcheyvs]

To close the loop on this, I went with the second type (in above photos) of breakaway clamp. at least for now. I had a longish 1/2 bolt welded to the guard over the hydro lines with washers above and below the strap from the clamp. Initially I planned to cut off the excess bolt length and drill it for a clevis pin but instead I used a nylock nut with a piece of PVC to fill the gap. The PVC provides nice friction so the clamp can rotate if needed without being lose. Here's what it looks like:

The bulkhead-style nipples are still between the hoses and female QDs but I'll probably remove them when I make new hoses for a diverter valve.

I still need to solve a leak on the left hose where blue thread dope is visible. Maybe the JIC to NTP adapter is bad, I've already tried two different male QD connectors. Otherwise, so far so good.

 

[Coyote machine]

I use a bracket from Michigan Iron & Equipment, that attaches to the bolt already on the torque tube shield closest to the leveling rod/tube. The advantage, from my POV, is the bracket keeps the QD connections easy to reach while standing on the side of the FEL, AND I didn't have to add anything to the torque tube shield. Also, by having the QDs and bracket off to the side they are more protected, and less hose length and possible places for entanglement with branches, etc. while using a grapple, plow, etc., IMO.
The design stacks one QD over the other, and it's made of thick steel, painted black.
Ask Bob or his son Tony to send you a pic of one installed.

 

[ritcheyvs]

...I still need to solve a leak on the left hose where blue thread dope is visible. Maybe the JIC to NTP adapter is bad, I've already tried two different male QD connectors. Otherwise, so far so good.

I'm convinced that the 1/2 in male NTP threads on the adapter were not cut right. It was an oddball adapter (like a reverse JIC with the cone on the hose side) and I could not identify a replacement. Eventually, it sealed with Teflon tape (about 6 wraps) and much torque. Previously, the blue pipe dope that worked fine everywhere else blew out as soon as I applied hydraulic pressure, even after curing for 24 hours.

 

[Gary Fowler]

That second type is the ones we always used on our farm tractors and you are right, it allows for the coupling to line up straight when pulled from the side. The solid mounted ones wont always break away when pulled from the side and many times would pull the hose in two or bust the coupling rather than release.