NX4510HST more issues

[JimR]

I found two more minor issues and will pass along the info to anyone that owns one of these tractors. First issue was the cooling line to the oil filter base. Mine was put on with a bit of a twist to the point where it was rubbing against a motor bolt behind the hose. I loosened the two clamps and spun the hose so that it was not pushing against the head of the bolt. Second issue is the radiator drain plug on the bottom right hand side of the radiator. Mine is cracking all the way around and will need to be replaced ASAP before it blows out on me. Mind you that this tractor is a 2015 leftover with only 89 hours on it now. I bought this in September of 2016. I hope the other rubber products on it don't start doing the same thing.

 

[JimR]

Yesterday I decided to remove the grader blade from my tractor and install the chipper back on. I fired up the best to drive next door and she is running fine. At the top of my driveway I shifted in high gear and the shifter overshot by a good 1/2 inch right into the plastic shield cracking a good chunk of it off. WTF just happened. My HST shift lever is loose as a goose. It appears that the pin that goes through the shifter lever shaft has just about fallen out. I banged it back in until I get aroud to find a good replacement with a nut to keep this secure. With only 88 hours on it this is ridiculous.

 

[Amvcane]

If it is a roll pin you could put a wire through it and twist to secure it. The older JD garden tractor trannys came from the factory with a wire through the pin for insurance.

 

[JimR]

If it is a roll pin you could put a wire through it and twist to secure it. The older JD garden tractor trannys came from the factory with a wire through the pin for insurance.



View attachment 504909

The pin is a roll pin. That is a great idea about wiring it up. My plan was to make a snug hex head bolt for it and put a locknut on it. The wire job is much simpler. I will swap it out first with a new roll pin.

 

[JimR]

Today I found another issue with my Kioti. The 3PTH remote lever in the back was frozen up. After some serious twisting and prying I got the lever off of the rusted up shaft. It was in no doubt put together without any lube whatsoever. There are two plastic bushings in the lever that ride on the shaft with a good 3/4 inch space in the middle open for grease. I cleaned up the shaft with fine sandpaper to remove the rust. I then proceeded to install a grease fitting in the center of the lever. This lever will never freeze up again. I suggest that anyone with one of these tractors do the same before theirs get rusted up like mine did. Mind you this only has 88 hours on it. Unfortunately stored outside since new and still outside since I bought it in 9/2016. Soon to be indoors once I do some major cleaning out in my garage.

 

[DieselBound]

Jim, when you wire up that shift lever roll pin could you take a picture of it (and note how one goes about getting access for this operation)?

 

[JimR]

Jim, when you wire up that shift lever roll pin could you take a picture of it (and note how one goes about getting access for this operation)?

I will take some photos for you. I also found another roll pin on another lever that I am going to wire up. It is right near the shift lever. I'm going to use .030 stainless steel mig welding wire on both of them. I'm pretty sure I can reach them from behind the tire from the rear of the tractor. I'll be doing that this weekend. Today I replaced my shift lever panel that I broke and a rear fender extension that I also broke by catching onto my wood chipper when I was grading snow out of my driveway a month ago. Now she looks like new once again.

 

[JimR]

I did finally wire up the shift lever pin and the other roll pin on the rear end which also attaches to this shifter linkage. no more falling out pins for me. I used .030 Mig welder stainless steel wire to fix this. Being a normal sized guy I was able to do them both from the rear of the tractor by cutting to 18 inch long pieces of wire for ease of use. I bent each loop as I ran the wire through the pins to keep the wire tight. Then I twisted the two pieces together and clamped them with a pair of Vise Grips to do the final twisting. If you are a big guy you may need to remove the rear tire as it would be a lot easier to get to both roll pins. It took me all of 5 minutes to do both of my roll pins. It took me longer to find the stainless steel welding wire. The other roll pin is in the lower right hand corner of the picture.

 

[DieselBound]

Jim, thanks for the picture. That helps me anticipate what needs to be done.

 

[JimR]

Jim, thanks for the picture. That helps me anticipate what needs to be done.

Not a problem. It is an easy fix.