New Kioti CK2510 Owner! (Broke it within 5 minutes)

[Coyote machine]

Been there, done that. Nice rig! I'd just disconnect the entire rod and two holder pieces for now and put them aside. As far as bending back the rod holder tab where the nuts and washers go, I've hit mine back to straight and re-bent the rod/indicator probably a dozen times since 2010. Mostly rebending the rod to near straight, only did braket damage a couple of times. I probably beat the bracket back with a brass headed hammer, carefully. It's held fine, thought like yours it does need paint. It hasn't rusted though, I think I coated it with grease to keep that from occurring.

I can see why you're frustrated, but as others have said it is really only a dealer prep screw-up, NOT a Kioti tractor issue.
You will grow to LOVE your Kioti, I'm confident of that.
And, good place to 'scratch it', it will not make a difference in the long run...

Cheers,

CM

 

[handtools]

Been there done that too, at about 100 hrs. or so my lower guide tube vibrated loose and bent everything almost exactly like yours. I just straightened the rod and mounting tab, and put it back together with locktite. BTW congrats on the new machine, excellent choice!

 

[Ken Kegris]

Hey guys you arnt the only one with CK25 problems. I think the bucket holes are for the tooth bar which is really nice. When I brought my New ck2510 home i made one round with the mmm and I got stuck so being new I thought i did not have it in fwd so I changed it and got stuck the second time now I knew something was wrong. Here the fwd would not stay in gear the gears were cut crooked so six weeks later I got it back with all new properly cut gears, now the fwd works fine but now at less than 50 hours the injector pump has a leak and kioti tells me its a 1000.00 fix but since they did 2 other one day they are out of new pumps plus since it over 1000.00 Kioti must approve it and that a 2 week process, They assure me that it will be approved. so when the pump comes in they will call and then I need to get the tractor to them and 4 hours later it will be fixed. I traded a CS2410 to get rid of a lot of problems and I think I got more. My CK25 has over 1000 hours and I never had a lick of trouble. I know the kioti dealer personally so we are good friends. For now I have rag tied to the lines. I did not get a loader for mine I use it more for mowing and running the power plant. I mow about 8 acres a week depending if I do our tractor show grounds. I hope I get to use my tractor more than the dealer does there cant be to much more to break.

 

[brewmaster2k]

Thanks all for the assistance and info!

I am waiting for a call back from the dealer's service team. I have removed the sight rod for now (it was scratching the loader arms).

Does anyone have the drive over mower? Any tips on getting it lined up properly? I already took a small chunk out of my tire by driving over it slightly crooked.

 

[oosik]

Welcome to TBN - very nice tractor. After the dealer installed my grapple - I found the level indicator rod out of the tube and just hanging there. I took the entire level indicator system off - put it in the work shed. Some day I may find something worthwhile to use the parts for.

 

[brewmaster2k]

Welcome to TBN - very nice tractor. After the dealer installed my grapple - I found the level indicator rod out of the tube and just hanging there. I took the entire level indicator system off - put it in the work shed. Some day I may find something worthwhile to use the parts for.

Haha Yeah I hear ya, because I have never had one before I don't really even notice it is missing. It's the point of the thing.

I did notice that the dealer put zero lube on the FEL attachment points making it stick when removing it and putting it back on, very smooth now.

 

[Ken Kegris]

Yes I have a drive over. I use the chain hoist in the shop pick up the front of the tractor and slide it out 40 seconds tops on mower removal. I have the Ag tires and the mower geometry goes all to heck when those tires are put on, there about 2 inches taller so all adjustments were off and I had to make new adjustable J bolts. I actually made the same parts as the upper pieces just with a smaller shaft 1/2 inch I think and used a 6 inch bolt. Because if you lifted it up all the way the mower will hit the tires. As far as taking it off and driving over it You have to raise the mower wheels and put blocks of wood to assist getting on top of the deck. Before doing that the deck must be raised and the height adjuster pin must be removed. that lets the deck drop all the way. If you forget to remove the shaft from the tractor the mower will still come out using the chain hoist method. You cant drive over the deck with the shaft hooked up. For gods sake don't drive the tractor with half the shaft on the tractor it could get bent or you will crack the PTO housing or worse yet crack the rear end housing And whatever you would do with half the shaft still hanging there do not start the PTO. I worry about the angle that that shaft runs at I usually try and keep a straight shaft and that mower blows that all out of the water. As far as aligning up the mower I have a cement floor and I just slide it a little side ways as needed and put the pins in, and then hook the front up and last I lay down from the back of the tractor with the mower now raised and put the shaft on the PTO Remember raising the mower the arms raise and then the PTO is easy to get from the rear, the worst of that is you slide the collar towards the front of the tractor and pull the shaft to the rear of the tractor sorta kinda works against itself along those lines. Well any more questions, let me know. What do you think about lifting a gas can up to fill the tank, you don't want a full can. I find when the gas pup light you can get 5 gall in the tank. At home I have a pump its when I help at our tractor show grounds that I need to fill with a gas can. Kenny

 

[Coyote machine]

Yes I have a drive over. I use the chain hoist in the shop pick up the front of the tractor and slide it out 40 seconds tops on mower removal. I have the Ag tires and the mower geometry goes all to heck when those tires are put on, there about 2 inches taller so all adjustments were off and I had to make new adjustable J bolts. I actually made the same parts as the upper pieces just with a smaller shaft 1/2 inch I think and used a 6 inch bolt. Because if you lifted it up all the way the mower will hit the tires. As far as taking it off and driving over it You have to raise the mower wheels and put blocks of wood to assist getting on top of the deck. Before doing that the deck must be raised and the height adjuster pin must be removed. that lets the deck drop all the way. If you forget to remove the shaft from the tractor the mower will still come out using the chain hoist method. You cant drive over the deck with the shaft hooked up. For gods sake don't drive the tractor with half the shaft on the tractor it could get bent or you will crack the PTO housing or worse yet crack the rear end housing And whatever you would do with half the shaft still hanging there do not start the PTO. I worry about the angle that that shaft runs at I usually try and keep a straight shaft and that mower blows that all out of the water. As far as aligning up the mower I have a cement floor and I just slide it a little side ways as needed and put the pins in, and then hook the front up and last I lay down from the back of the tractor with the mower now raised and put the shaft on the PTO Remember raising the mower the arms raise and then the PTO is easy to get from the rear, the worst of that is you slide the collar towards the front of the tractor and pull the shaft to the rear of the tractor sorta kinda works against itself along those lines. Well any more questions, let me know. What do you think about lifting a gas can up to fill the tank, you don't want a full can. I find when the gas pup light you can get 5 gall in the tank. At home I have a pump its when I help at our tractor show grounds that I need to fill with a gas can. Kenny

A suggestion Kenny- try putting some paragraph breaks in what you write, it makes it a whole lot easier to read.:thumbsup:
BTW, you should be able to get a new injection pump regardless of hours on your rig- its a warranty related item, and its covered.

 

[Ken Kegris]

Yes they called at 5:00 today and the pump is in so Sunday night I must take it to them and they claim I should be able to pick up at dinner on Monday It is warrantied there's only 50 hours on the machine, and has a 3 year bumper to bumper and 6 year power train. Yes I know paragraphs would be better as would punctuation marks also. Try to do better. Been reading lawnmower mower threads also they are quite interesting.

 

[k0ua]

Hi Ken, yes Been There Done That on the loader level rod. Mine lasted 10 hours before it unscrewed. Wadded up the rod about like yours.. Bent the bracket on the cylinder just a little bit. I hit it with a hammer, took the rod off and straightened it on a table with a hammer. Just little carefully waps with a hammer after you straighten it some with your hands. Got it very straight with the procedure. Put some Locktite on the threads and screwed all back together, and went one step further and staked the threads with an automatic center punch, because I never wanted it to come apart again. I shot the bracket with my leftover Kubota II paint which is a perfect match. Just a little shot of paint to prevent corrosion. All still good now at well over 400 hours.

All told it took me less than 20 minutes from start to finish. But that is the way I roll. The things I can easily fix without parts, I just fix and go on. Sure the dealer didn't tighten it up correctly, but why make him come 75 miles round trip to do it? Me and the dealership get along fine, Stuff they can help me with they do for a good price or no cost at all, and the little niggling crap, I take care of.

It is still the best tractor I have owned (I have owned 5), but sure a few things might not have been tightened correctly, and this was one of them.