kioti dk40se stuck clutch

   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch #1  

jaroban

Silver Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2004
Messages
190
Location
TX
Tractor
Kioti dk40se
I started this post with a tractor that would not turn over. The
reason that it would not turn over was because the bell housing
was half full of water (at least 1/2 gallon). The starter solenoid
was shot. I rebuilt the starter and bought a new solenoid. The tractor
will start and run fine now. The problem I am having now is the clutch
is engaged against the flywheel. I am the second owner.
I have not had the tractor under water. The previous owner stored it
out doors. I store it in a barn. I found the drain plug and drained it.
I drug my tractor all over my property yesterday. The clutch was depressed.
I put it in high range 2 gear. The tires on the tractor would not
Turn. I then went to 3 gear the tires would turn. I drug it about five hundred
Yards with no luck. This tractor only has around 70 hours on it. I really do not
Want to split it if I can avoid it. I also engage the front differential. Any ideas
on getting it disengaged?
There is an access hole on the right side of the tractor in the bell housing.
If I start the tractor and spray Break clean on the clutch while it is spinning
do you see a problem with that? The only other access that I can find
is where the starter mounts up and the drain plug. this tractor does have loader on it.
If I remove it are there more access holes behind the loader brackets?

Robby
 
   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch #2  
I would not spray anything on a clutch. I hate to say it, but it looks like you will be splitting and doing a clutch. 1/2 gallon of water is a half gallon too much. Before some one bought that tractor it spends its whole life outside on a lot somewhere. Sitting outside is not the best, but it should not collect water there.
 
   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch #3  
I'd think that at this point you might have nothing to lose other than trying brake clean. If I'm understanding correctly, the clutch disk is essentially rusted to the flywheel and pressure plate. Once you get any movement here it shouldn't be too long before you can burnish off that rust. Biggest concern, I'd think, would be the throwout bearing; if it's froze up then you're probably going to have to tear things apart.
 
   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I have owned four tractors in my life time. And many standard
Automobiles. I have never come across one that has a drain
Plug. All have had weep holes.

At this point I se I have nothing to loose by spraying anything on that
Clutch. If it does not come loose I still have to split it. I was even considering
Putting the drain plug back in and filling the bell with diesel and let it spin for
Awhile. Then going back with break clean.
 
   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch #5  
I would spray brake clean on it while it is not running, while its spinning, i dont think it would really get in there well.

Also, another abstract thought I'm thinking out loud here. With the tractor off. Fill up the bell housing with vinegar, completely, then let sit for a few hours, and drain. Vinegar is a great brake cleaner and is cheap if you need this much volume of it. Things to watch out for here are vinegar leaking into transmission or engine, but I think this is unlikely, just be very very sure you do not pressurize the bell-housing with this vinegar in any way.

It is my opinion that you need to split the tractor, but should you be struggling with the resources and time required for this, I can appreciate your search for an alternative that may get you by.
 
   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch #6  
If I were facing your dilemma, I would start the tractor in gear (clear path straight ahead, of course). Then, with the clutch pedal fully depressed (my DK45sc has a 'hook' that will hold the clutch pedal depressed), I would try to load up the engine as best as I could. If you could hook up a brush hog, and find some tall weeds, you should be able to force the engine to develop full power for an extended period (perhaps an occasional hard application of brakes??). I would bet that once everything got up to operating temp, a few minutes at full power would 'pop' the clutch disk loose. This is assuming the clutch linkage, and throwout bearing is actually releasing the pressure off the disk.

Good Luck!

Let us know what you end up doing.
 
   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I will try the vinegar method this afternoon. I probably will not get to run the tractor until Saturday. I have a box blade on the tractor. If I can get it started and in gear. I will drag that box until the tractor stops if I have to after I get it warmed up.
This tractor has a switch that turns the PTO on and off.
Since the pto is not directly hooked to the clutch do I need to use an Implement that uses the PTO?
 
   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I had another thought. Is there a way to start the tractor in gear? I know I can pull start it in gear. But after I start pulling it with another vehicle it’s hard to get it unhooked from the vehicle with the tractor still in motion.

Robby
 
   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch #9  
I really am not 'up' on many tractors other than my particular DK45 (I think maybe a 2008 model??) My tractor requires the clutch to be depressed before the starter will engage; but there is no requirement to be in neutral (or any particular gear).

I haven't actually tried it, but I feel strongly that the starter would have no trouble spinning the engine while simultaneously propelling the tractor in high range, 1st gear. If it does strain the starter, you could always drop to mid range - but it would make it harder to put the engine in a strain.

I would probably 1st warm up the engine a little in neutral (& be sure to raise the box blade), just to make it a bit easier starting for "when it counts".

I don't think my box blade would lug down my engine, except in the higher gears (I would expect the engine will need to be at, or near, full throttle at some point), but my blade is pretty small, & you know much better how hard it is to pull your blade.

Please don't unhook while in motion...it sounds real scary to me! Your not going to be able to stop quickly!

I see your point about the PTO implement. My tractor is the same way. I obviously didn't think that through!!

It sounds like you have a second person for help?? If the blade doesn't work the engine hard enough, you could chain the truck to the blade (make sure the blade is up, and plenty of slack in the chain while starting the engine) Perhaps the truck driver could have the truck creeping forward, in order to prevent the chain from 'snapping' tight. Once you have everything going smoothly, give the engine full throttle & drop the blade. If the weight of the truck doesn't load up the engine enough, the truck driver could smoothly add brakes.

Although I would want to "work the engine" hard; I wouldn't want to 'lug' it down; as long as the engine is at 'full' throttle, and is maybe 300/400 below "full" RPM, then you know the governor has the throttle wide open, & the engine is spinning fast enough to produce max HP

Anyway, those are just my thoughts on your situation. Everyone has to decide for themselves what is, or is not, a good idea.

Good Luck!
 
   / kioti dk40se stuck clutch #10  
I posted this in your other thread but thought if anyone ever searched for something like this down the road, it might be more helpful here.

Drive tractor, get it good and hot. Then block the clutch pedal down. Let it sit overnight. Then do it again.
Alot of times the dissimilar materials will allow the clutch and flywheel to separate.
You have an extreme circumstance that is for sure.
You also might want to take the starter back off and aim a heater at the hole in the bellhousing so you can make sure it is dry.
Leave clutch blocked down while doing this.
 
 
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