I recently purchased a used 2009 Kioti CK20s with a hard starting issue. As I began to use it more frequently, the issue became untenable as I would invariably burn out the starter motor. After much research (and trowing parts at it), I finally fixed it. Seeing as I relied on the vast amount of knowledge found on the Tractor by Net forum, I thought I should give back to the community by writing down the steps I followed to resolve my problem. I learned a great deal from the Tractor by Net forum denizens and this is my way to give back.
Disclaimer
I'm just a guy that bought a tractor with starting issues. I am not an expert and this post should not be construed as official, dealer sanctioned advice in any way, shape or form. Also, English is my second language so
.
My tractor's general hard starting symptoms
When I first purchased the tractor, I had a great deal of trouble starting it. Regardless of temperature, time of day, moon phases, it would take a good 4 to 10 starting cycles before it would finally start up. The tractor would puff a fine white mist of diesel out the exhaust for one or two rotations and then continue turning over without any more smoke and without coughing to life. This would happen regardless of how many times I cycled through the glow plugs. And no matter how long I held the key to the starter position, it would never fire up or even cough. Sometimes, If I immediately turned the key straight to the start position (all the way to the right), the tractor would cough black smoke for a few revolutions and then revert back to simply turning over without ever firing; no further diesel mist out the exhaust either.
And when it did run, shutting it off was more of a suggestion. It could take anywhere from half a second to 3 seconds to shut off. This last symptom should have been the key one to investigate. But being new to diesel tractors (at least modern ones), I led myself on a wild goose chase.
The possible causes that I explored
1. Bad glow plug(s)
If one or more glow plugs are on their way out, your tractor will be hard starting. However, you should still have it attempt to start. You should get some black smoke coming out of the exhaust indicating that it is firing on one or more cylinder. If not, a fine mist of diesel should be coming out the exhaust.
To test the glow plugs, you should firstly ensure that you are getting power to them. Disconnect the first glow plug (starting from the front of the tractor) from the second by unscrewing the tips of the two plugs and remove the connecting wire. Don't be lazy and only unscrew the middle (second) glow plug tip and bend the tab back up. It will snap. Ask me how I know.
Using your multimeter's high current setting (10a), bridge the first glow plug to the second using the probes and turn the key to the glow setting (on). If you get approximately 7a, you are good. If you do not get any current, follow the same procedure between the second and third glow plugs to identify where continuity is lost. Make sure you do not reconnect the first glow plugs when attempting this step as it will blow the fuse in your multimeter (10a).
If you still do not get any current, the most likely culprit is the glow plug relay (or the glow plug timer?).
While you are in there, you can test the glow plugs to ensure that they are within spec. You can test them by using the lowest resistance setting on your multimeter. You should see less than 2 ohms of resistance and ideally it should be around 1. I had two glow plugs way out of spec. I therefore purchased three new glow plugs from my local Bobcat dealer as they were less than half the price of my Kioti dealer. The glow plugs are made by NGK for Bobcat and Kioti but I was unable to locate them outside of the dealer network.
Unfortunately for me, this procedure did not really help my hard starting issue.
References:
Bad glow plugs video
Testing glow plugs
NGK YE11 glow plugs specs
Part Numbers:
Glow Plug Relay - T5535-69951
Glow Plug Timer - T2305-60234
Glow Plugs - E5760-65511 or Bobcat #6694558
2. Gelled diesel
Because I was only getting a few puffs of diesel mist out the exhaust for one or two revolutions, I thought perhaps the tractor had been sitting for a while with summer blend diesel awaiting its new owner (me). I added diesel Power Service to the tank and topped off the tank with fresh winter diesel with more Power Service added. That did nothing to alleviate the symptoms. I then decided to replace the fuel filter because well, why not.
To replace the filter, shut off the fuel petcock on the filter bowl. Place a drain pan under the bowl to capture the cup or so of diesel that will spill out. Unscrew the large retaining washer thing. Pull out the old filter and replace with the new one.
Reinstallation is done in reverse with one exception. After turning the petcock back to the on position, make sure to refill the bowl by slightly unscrewing the the philips head screw next to the petcock. This will allow diesel to fill the bowl and air to escape. Once diesel starts to overflow through that little screw, tighten it back down. Using this method will prevent air from entering the fuel system.
Unfortunately this step did not help my hard starting issue.
References:
Discussion about fuel filter part number
Discussion on bleeding the fuel filter bowl
Part Numbers:
Fuel filter - Kioti 76KD-10331, Bobcat #6694422, NAPA NGF3389
3. Key Switch
As I read discussion threads on hard starting issues with the CK20 model, one of the most frequently mentioned item was the key switch assembly. The key switch tends to gelled up with ice, or just plain gets dirty. Some of the symptoms are the glow plug relay not clicking on and the fuel stop solenoid plunger assembly pokey bit not retracting (more on this one below).
In my case, the glow plugs were getting power however, I was only getting intermittent power to the fuel stop solenoid plunger assembly.
To remove the key switch assembly, take the kick panel off from under the dashboard. You can remove the rubber/plastic handles from the parking brake and cruise control levers simply by pulling on them. I also removed the top two screws and the lower bolts from the dashboard. This allowed more room to work under the dashboard by lifting it up a bit.
Once out, I disassembled the key switch assembly being careful not to loose the little spring in the middle. The assembly was surprisingly clean however the spring was very weak. I confirmed that contact wasn't always occurring with my multimeter set to resistance. I stretched out the spring knowing that this is only a temporary fix as it will compress back down with time. I packed the assembly full of dielectric grease and reinstalled.
After reinstalling the key switch assembly, power reached the fuel stop solenoid plunger thing 100% of the time. Unfortunately, this did not fix my hard starting issue. Nuts.
References:
Tractor by Net's very own ritcheyvs' web site with detailed instructions on taking apart the key switch and more
4. Fuel stop solenoid (plunger thing)
Based on my understanding of the discussion thread listed below, the fuel stop solenoid works by retracting a plunger thing allowing diesel to flow into the engine. When the key switch is set to off, the fuel plunger thing extends back out preventing diesel from flowing.
When looking at the engine from the right hand side (passenger side?), the fuel stop solenoid is located at the front just before the cooling fan. It looks like a small metal can.
I thought that mine may be experiencing difficulties because of the delay in shutting off the tractor. Maybe the plunger wasn't moving consistently? The first indication that something was amiss was the large amount of gunk covering the front of the solenoid metal can.
To remove the solenoid, I firstly disconnected the electrical connector by removing the metal clip (*you will curse the day Kioti engineers decided upon that type of connector when you try to reinstall that little bugger) and then pulling gently on the connector. I then removed the two bolts holding it on to the engine. I had just enough space for a 10mm wrench to work. Once removed, I tried to manually actuate the plunger by pushing it into the solenoid. Oil came squirting out from the plunger shaft seal. Worst yet, when I let the plunger go, I noticed that it took a few seconds for it to fully extend again.
While I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, my theory is that positive crank pressure was pushing oil past the seal and pressurizing the solenoid's metal can. The pressure built up to the point where oil was slowly seeping through the other end of the can. This explained the gunk on the top portion (front of the tractor) of the metal can. I pumped the plunger a few dozen times wiping off any oil that came out. After this, the plunger freely extended back out without any resistance. I reinstalled the fuel stop solenoid and voila, the tractor started on the first try.
Over the next few days, the tractor never failed to start on the first try regardless of the temperature or the extent of time between starts. I also noticed that when I turned the key to the off position, the tractor would immediately shut off; no more 2 second delay. I realize that I will eventually have to repeat this procedure as the fuel stop solenoid will get pressurized with oil again. I think I will simply replace the solenoid next time.
References:
This was the discussion that clued me into what was really happening. The diagram is for the older CK20 model but the procedure is mostly the same.
Engine stop lever group
Part Numbers:
Fuel Stop Solenoid - E6820-60011
This is where my quest in fixing my hard start issue comes to an end. Hopefully some of this will be helpful to someone in the future.
Cheers
Disclaimer
I'm just a guy that bought a tractor with starting issues. I am not an expert and this post should not be construed as official, dealer sanctioned advice in any way, shape or form. Also, English is my second language so
. My tractor's general hard starting symptoms
When I first purchased the tractor, I had a great deal of trouble starting it. Regardless of temperature, time of day, moon phases, it would take a good 4 to 10 starting cycles before it would finally start up. The tractor would puff a fine white mist of diesel out the exhaust for one or two rotations and then continue turning over without any more smoke and without coughing to life. This would happen regardless of how many times I cycled through the glow plugs. And no matter how long I held the key to the starter position, it would never fire up or even cough. Sometimes, If I immediately turned the key straight to the start position (all the way to the right), the tractor would cough black smoke for a few revolutions and then revert back to simply turning over without ever firing; no further diesel mist out the exhaust either.
And when it did run, shutting it off was more of a suggestion. It could take anywhere from half a second to 3 seconds to shut off. This last symptom should have been the key one to investigate. But being new to diesel tractors (at least modern ones), I led myself on a wild goose chase.
The possible causes that I explored
1. Bad glow plug(s)
If one or more glow plugs are on their way out, your tractor will be hard starting. However, you should still have it attempt to start. You should get some black smoke coming out of the exhaust indicating that it is firing on one or more cylinder. If not, a fine mist of diesel should be coming out the exhaust.
To test the glow plugs, you should firstly ensure that you are getting power to them. Disconnect the first glow plug (starting from the front of the tractor) from the second by unscrewing the tips of the two plugs and remove the connecting wire. Don't be lazy and only unscrew the middle (second) glow plug tip and bend the tab back up. It will snap. Ask me how I know.
Using your multimeter's high current setting (10a), bridge the first glow plug to the second using the probes and turn the key to the glow setting (on). If you get approximately 7a, you are good. If you do not get any current, follow the same procedure between the second and third glow plugs to identify where continuity is lost. Make sure you do not reconnect the first glow plugs when attempting this step as it will blow the fuse in your multimeter (10a).
If you still do not get any current, the most likely culprit is the glow plug relay (or the glow plug timer?).
While you are in there, you can test the glow plugs to ensure that they are within spec. You can test them by using the lowest resistance setting on your multimeter. You should see less than 2 ohms of resistance and ideally it should be around 1. I had two glow plugs way out of spec. I therefore purchased three new glow plugs from my local Bobcat dealer as they were less than half the price of my Kioti dealer. The glow plugs are made by NGK for Bobcat and Kioti but I was unable to locate them outside of the dealer network.
Unfortunately for me, this procedure did not really help my hard starting issue.
References:
Bad glow plugs video
Testing glow plugs
NGK YE11 glow plugs specs
Part Numbers:
Glow Plug Relay - T5535-69951
Glow Plug Timer - T2305-60234
Glow Plugs - E5760-65511 or Bobcat #6694558
2. Gelled diesel
Because I was only getting a few puffs of diesel mist out the exhaust for one or two revolutions, I thought perhaps the tractor had been sitting for a while with summer blend diesel awaiting its new owner (me). I added diesel Power Service to the tank and topped off the tank with fresh winter diesel with more Power Service added. That did nothing to alleviate the symptoms. I then decided to replace the fuel filter because well, why not.
To replace the filter, shut off the fuel petcock on the filter bowl. Place a drain pan under the bowl to capture the cup or so of diesel that will spill out. Unscrew the large retaining washer thing. Pull out the old filter and replace with the new one.
Reinstallation is done in reverse with one exception. After turning the petcock back to the on position, make sure to refill the bowl by slightly unscrewing the the philips head screw next to the petcock. This will allow diesel to fill the bowl and air to escape. Once diesel starts to overflow through that little screw, tighten it back down. Using this method will prevent air from entering the fuel system.
Unfortunately this step did not help my hard starting issue.
References:
Discussion about fuel filter part number
Discussion on bleeding the fuel filter bowl
Part Numbers:
Fuel filter - Kioti 76KD-10331, Bobcat #6694422, NAPA NGF3389
3. Key Switch
As I read discussion threads on hard starting issues with the CK20 model, one of the most frequently mentioned item was the key switch assembly. The key switch tends to gelled up with ice, or just plain gets dirty. Some of the symptoms are the glow plug relay not clicking on and the fuel stop solenoid plunger assembly pokey bit not retracting (more on this one below).
In my case, the glow plugs were getting power however, I was only getting intermittent power to the fuel stop solenoid plunger assembly.
To remove the key switch assembly, take the kick panel off from under the dashboard. You can remove the rubber/plastic handles from the parking brake and cruise control levers simply by pulling on them. I also removed the top two screws and the lower bolts from the dashboard. This allowed more room to work under the dashboard by lifting it up a bit.
Once out, I disassembled the key switch assembly being careful not to loose the little spring in the middle. The assembly was surprisingly clean however the spring was very weak. I confirmed that contact wasn't always occurring with my multimeter set to resistance. I stretched out the spring knowing that this is only a temporary fix as it will compress back down with time. I packed the assembly full of dielectric grease and reinstalled.
After reinstalling the key switch assembly, power reached the fuel stop solenoid plunger thing 100% of the time. Unfortunately, this did not fix my hard starting issue. Nuts.
References:
Tractor by Net's very own ritcheyvs' web site with detailed instructions on taking apart the key switch and more
4. Fuel stop solenoid (plunger thing)
Based on my understanding of the discussion thread listed below, the fuel stop solenoid works by retracting a plunger thing allowing diesel to flow into the engine. When the key switch is set to off, the fuel plunger thing extends back out preventing diesel from flowing.
When looking at the engine from the right hand side (passenger side?), the fuel stop solenoid is located at the front just before the cooling fan. It looks like a small metal can.
I thought that mine may be experiencing difficulties because of the delay in shutting off the tractor. Maybe the plunger wasn't moving consistently? The first indication that something was amiss was the large amount of gunk covering the front of the solenoid metal can.
To remove the solenoid, I firstly disconnected the electrical connector by removing the metal clip (*you will curse the day Kioti engineers decided upon that type of connector when you try to reinstall that little bugger) and then pulling gently on the connector. I then removed the two bolts holding it on to the engine. I had just enough space for a 10mm wrench to work. Once removed, I tried to manually actuate the plunger by pushing it into the solenoid. Oil came squirting out from the plunger shaft seal. Worst yet, when I let the plunger go, I noticed that it took a few seconds for it to fully extend again.
While I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, my theory is that positive crank pressure was pushing oil past the seal and pressurizing the solenoid's metal can. The pressure built up to the point where oil was slowly seeping through the other end of the can. This explained the gunk on the top portion (front of the tractor) of the metal can. I pumped the plunger a few dozen times wiping off any oil that came out. After this, the plunger freely extended back out without any resistance. I reinstalled the fuel stop solenoid and voila, the tractor started on the first try.
Over the next few days, the tractor never failed to start on the first try regardless of the temperature or the extent of time between starts. I also noticed that when I turned the key to the off position, the tractor would immediately shut off; no more 2 second delay. I realize that I will eventually have to repeat this procedure as the fuel stop solenoid will get pressurized with oil again. I think I will simply replace the solenoid next time.
References:
This was the discussion that clued me into what was really happening. The diagram is for the older CK20 model but the procedure is mostly the same.
Engine stop lever group
Part Numbers:
Fuel Stop Solenoid - E6820-60011
This is where my quest in fixing my hard start issue comes to an end. Hopefully some of this will be helpful to someone in the future.
Cheers
