ck2610 hst 50 hour service

[cowbridge]

So far so good with this machine. I just hit 50 hours. I've read some comments around here advising different things to do for the 50 hour service than what is in the manual.

What needs to be done?

I found Nolts Power Equipment on ebay that has a service kit for $153.87 that includes: Air filter, engine oil filter, fuel filter, hst filter and hydraulic filter.

Do I need all of these items?

I suppose I'll need to track down a trans oil filter, trans fluid, and engine oil. Is that everything?

 

[xcgreene]

The debate is usually whether or not to change the trans/hyd fluid at 50 hours. I myself would. There are many unknowns about the fluid in a new tractor. What did the dealer use for fluid, how clean were their shop practices. There's a considerable amount of debris and the bottom of the transmission case from manufacturing that, although does not circulate, will dump out when you change fluid for the first time. Anything in that fluid smaller than 11 micron, any residual chemicals from manufacturing, any slight emulsification, its all circulating.

It's good practice to get that crap out of there after 50 hours and put in some good, suitable fluid.

 

[747driver]

As XCGreene says....change out all the fluids ! You have 2 hyd filters...change them both along with the rest. I just changed my trans and hyd fluid. I have 600 hrs on the machine but bought it with 190 hrs. When I pulled the main plug, the chip detector had machine shavings on it. So I don't know if the 50 hr was ever done on it ! Here is what I used for hyd. fluid...Shell Spirax S4 TXM . I went to a local shell distributor and got it for $50 a pail...took 8 gallons. Don't skimp on fluids and filters. I get all my filters from Nolts. I use Mobil Delvac 15/40 engine oil as that is what I use in the motorhome also.

 

[cphilip]

My dealer just did my 50 hour. I paid for filters and fluids. He gave the labor as part of sale. Total was $115 but I don't have the list handy. Ill post up what all that included. Pretty sure they would not do hydraulic fluid change. Just both filters that calls for. Engine oil and filter for sure. Don't think fuel filter at that point. But there is some loss of fluids so thats also included.

 

[tiogajoe]

I agree, Change your Hydro/Trans fluid and filters. The engine oil and filter are due at 50 hours but the fuel filter is at 100 hrs. You could probably just blow out your air filter unless it's very dirty?? I also dropped my front axle fluid at 50hrs. I used Chevron THF 1000 this time around. Works well as do many other name brand fluids.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Don't forget the front axle. I believe in doing all lubrication at 50 hours, front axle, engine, rear axle, all filters including engine, HST suction and discharge, fuel filter(s) and inspect/clean the air filter. Anything less is unacceptable. It's a new $25,000/30+ year investment and a $300-$350 service. Apply the common sense skills you have and ponder that....

 

[Coyote machine]

And grease ALL zerks while at it. I don't to date change my hydraulic fluid for the HST. I DO change both filters, the big and small HST filters and keep an eye on the color of the HST fluid. So long as it's clear and not milky color I'm good with that - per my dealer's recommendation. He's been servicing selling tractors as long as I've been alive. He's forgotten more than I'll ever know about many brands.

 

[xcgreene]

And grease ALL zerks while at it. I don't to date change my hydraulic fluid for the HST. I DO change both filters, the big and small HST filters and keep an eye on the color of the HST fluid. So long as it's clear and not milky color I'm good with that - per my dealer's recommendation. He's been servicing selling tractors as long as I've been alive. He's forgotten more than I'll ever know about many brands.

I'll add to this, if you are going to continue running the same fluid, without change, have an oil sample analysis done every year or two ($28~). Any part of the transmission where two surfaces meet together under high pressure will slowly wear out viscosity index improvers that are present in good hydraulic oil, this means that your 10W20 oil will no longer be 10W20, and film strength will be reduced with running hours and stress.

You certainly can continually run the oil, as Coyoti machine does, and gather up a few thousand running hours without having any troubles. but know that parts will be wearing at a slightly increased rate, foreign particles smaller than 11 micron will continue to build within the system, and Traveller universal Premium is only like $32 for a 5 gallon pail.

I've been in the engine department a long time within the marine/offshore industry, I'm sure there are a number of others here on TBN from the same, and we have serviced/overhauled many types of equipment, read thousands of oil sample analysis reports, and trended them throughout the years, from overhaul to overhaul.

If not changing fluid hourly, oil sample analysis.

 

[muzbomb]

Hello guys I also have a CK2610 HST and I am at the 50hr mark too. So I have a couple questions also. I get Mobil oil for free at work so I was going to run Mobil in all my fluids. But what about the filters is there any place in Canada a guy can order the filters online? Is there any oil engine filter that say is a dram filter can just buy at a local shop??? Thanks

 

[MT matt]

Just completed my 50-hour service & I'm glad I spent some time reading this thread as well as the filter cross reference thread (saved some $ using Wix vice Kioti filters). I understand there are some that believe that using non-OEM will void any warranty, but the Magnuson-Moss act protects consumers like us when we use non-Kioti parts. I'm also not concerned about quality as I think Wix makes quality filters (unlike Fram).

A few random observations:
- The HST, Hydraulic & Oil filters are ridiculously tight. I've been a weightlifter for 25 years & I REALLY struggled to get them off (and destroyed a filter wrench in the process). During initial assembly, the gaskets aren't lubricated at all and the filters are torqued way too tightly. If you're going to do the initial service yourself, just know it's going to be a challenge.
- I hadn't been checking my front diff fluid level like I should have and it was nearly empty. No signs of a leak or anything, but I had to add at least a quart. I'll be diligent about checking the level before use from now on!
- Coolant was also getting low. Dealer didn't properly tighten hose clamps when installing the heater so there was a slow leak there.
- I didn't change the fuel filter or the hydarulic fluid. I did replenish the hydraulic fluid with new fluid after changing the filters, but I'm going to wait & change the fluid when the service manual says I should.
- I used Valvoline Premium Blue 5W-40 and I can say that cold starting is noticeably easier when compared to starting with 15W-40 in it.

Thanks to those who have posted advice in this thread; it was a big help!