Probably IP Gear (Control Sleeve) Failure

[ritcheyvs]

Two days ago, my 2006 DK45s started doing odd things, which are probably caused by broken IP gear teeth. The clock read 505 hours (tach hours)at the time. I ordered new control sleeves through Conestoga ($150 delivered). Conestoga was not the cheapest but they are the closest (of known sources) and they were the folks that first told me that these IPs were easily repairable (vs a new $1500 IP from Kioti), at least for this failure. When I open the IP next week I'll know the exact cause but the tractor sort-of runs now so I'll await parts before opening it up.

I mention this here because my symptoms were not typical. Typically, this failure causes the IP rack to jam solidly in the OFF position or at some high RPM. Mine just acted like the IP rack was "sticky". Cycling the Stop Solenoid apparently slapped the rack enough to unstick it.

At first, the tractor would crank fine but not start; After cycling the key to off and back to on/crank a few times got it started. It idled OK for a few seconds, then revved to 2000 rpm, and then died. After several more starts and keeping the RPM up with the hand throttle it ran fine while I mowed for a few hours. It died when I idled back from higher RPM but easily restarted each time. One time (as I was putting the tractor away) it jammed at a high RPM and I had to stall the engine with the clutch to stop it.

I believe there are broken teeth near the idle/off position on at least one control sleeve gear which caused the rack to stick in the OFF (zero fuel) position whenever the rack moved there, such as a sudden "throttle" change from higher RPM to lower RPM.

My current quandary is: should I (1) try to do the work in the lean-to shed with the loader on, (2) try to get the loader off (but I don't have a hard level spot), or (3) raise the loader full up and prop it against a tree to get it out of the way? I think I can get the engine to run enough to do #2 and #3.

 

[countrybumpkin]

When I did my friends , I had the loader off, I even removed the hood. Just makes access to all the injector lines and such , way more simple.

 

[VictorW]

I've taken my loader off on a not to level spot and it just takes a little playing to get it back on. I think you'll appreciate the loader off so you can work more easily.

 

[Kioti Paul]

When I did mine (also at about 500 hrs), I left my loader on, raised all the way up, and I don't recall it being in the way. My loader has always been real good about not bleeding down at all, if you do leave the loader on, it would probably be a good idea to prop it up, if you think there is any chance it may bleed down (it would then certainly be in the way).

I also removed the hood; probably not terribly important, but also not a big deal to remove.

Good Luck!!

 

[747driver]

Now that is a bummer ! Is this a known Kioti problem with so few hrs. ? I would error on the safety side and take the loader off.....

 

[ritcheyvs]

Now that is a bummer ! Is this a known Kioti problem with so few hrs. ? I would error on the safety side and take the loader off.....

Driver; This IP gear failure problem seems to effect only 2005-2008 CK and DK models with the newer stop solenoid. This spreadsheet shows known failures reported previously on TBN.

Many of the lower HP models still had the old stop solenoid during most of this period and they are not vulnerable. Likewise, later models are not effected. The IP builder (Doowan) apparently made a change that fixed the problem. These agricultural IPs (originally a Bosch design) are manufactured by Doowan under license to Zexel, which is the new name for Bosch fuel systems.

 

[Coyote machine]

Ritcheyvs,
Sorry to hear your Kioti seems to be suffering the pump rack failure. Can you give us a detailed breakdown with lots of pics from beginning to end, please?
And, FWIW, I'd opt for loader removal, this way it's not in your way.

Thanks,

CM

 

[ritcheyvs]

Many thanks for the multiple recommendations to remove the loader. Since I could get the tractor to run (sounded like one cylinder not firing) I drove to relatively flat spot and removed the loader. I put pieces of plywood under the legs because I was working on dirt and it may rain before this is over. Removal was much easier than I expected, possibly because I had greased the pins in the past. The hydraulic quick couplers required some light taps with a hammer as they had not been disconnected since 2006. Any color marks on those couplers were long gone so I used zero, one, two, or three zip ties to mark the corresponding couplers. Finally, I pressure-washed the engine to remove most of the crud before opening anything up. I was very fortunate that I could still run the engine to move the tractor and remove the loader.

I am working alone and I think the hood is too heavy/awkward for me to remove/install it by myself. But I think I can just tie it to the roll bar with piece of rope to hold it out of the way. The intake manifold is also the support for the gas strut that holds the hood up so I'll have to either remove or support the hood before I can remove the intake manifold. Otherwise, the IP removal doesn't look like a bad job. I did wonder about the intake manifold gasket; specifically if it will need to be replaced?

Obviously any other insights will be appreciated. I expect to begin work on this on Monday.

 

[LouNY]

Since you got your loader off this isn't going to be of any help today but,
what I do too block most hydraulic cylinders to work on things being supported by them is cut a piece of angle iron 1 1/2 or 2" of the length to lay on the rod and just fit
from the cylinder to the frame of the loader or implement release the pressure so that the angle iron has the load and acts as the safety bar.
Good luck with your injection pump.

 

[Coyote machine]

Since you got your loader off this isn't going to be of any help today but,
what I do too block most hydraulic cylinders to work on things being supported by them is cut a piece of angle iron 1 1/2 or 2" of the length to lay on the rod and just fit
from the cylinder to the frame of the loader or implement release the pressure so that the angle iron has the load and acts as the safety bar.
Good luck with your injection pump.

He's referring to the hood hold gas cylinder, not the loader hydraulic cylinders.

As far as the intake gasket I'd order one since the original has been on since 2006. If you need it you're not going to wait for it; if you don't use it it's because you ordered it in advance. :confused2:
I'd spray any nuts/bolts you need to remove now and then run the tractor a while to heat things up just a little before trying to remove them on Monday.
Also, put some score marks for realignment of the IP now so when you're at point of reassembly its easy to install. Apply brake and chock your wheels so there is no chance of movement, and place trans in neutral so the engine position can't change before/during teardown. Remove key and negative battery cable clamp, and place aside for later reconnection.