NX4510HST FEL6010 Joystick cable

[DCR1968]

Just wanted share an occurrence I ran into on my 2015 NX4510 I was back dragging in the float position and could not get the joystick to pop back out of float. The float function has been a bit sticky at times and I didn't think much of it, but was surprised to find it do this.

So I removed the cover and found that the cable had slipped from the crimp connector. I called the dealer and took it in, they informed me they had seen a few other NX series break that cable and they had an email into Kioti. The part I was not happy about is it cost $180 to fix the problem. I was told its beyond the 2 yr warranty so its out of my pocket. I thought this is not exactly a bank breaking repair but its a cable that is not a result of operator misuse or excessive wear. I was going to order the cable but figured its already at the dealer might as well have them take care of it.

In any case thought I would post the experience, so far have 250+ hrs on the machine from new. I have had some minor issues but cannot say I'm unhappy with the tractor it has performed very well for my intended uses.

 

[95ram]

I had the same thing happen to my 2015 NX5010. I was lucky enough to get mine replaced under warranty.

 

[DieselBound]

Wow, just this past weekend I had a cable fail on my NX5510 (271 hrs). I'd e-mailed my dealer asking for a replacement part, and whether it's covered under warranty (appears, per 95ram, that it is as I bought my NX fall of 2016): I'm going to follow-up with a phone call.

Anyone know how hard it is to replace these cables? I looked at the manual and the steps seem simple enough, but they have the joystick valve removed: no idea whether one can replace the cables with the valve still in place. I've got the joystick off and can see that the cable appears to have broken off at the base of the pin: looks like it's threaded into the pin.

Has there been a redesign on these cables or is this going to be something that will be a continuing source of problems?

 

[95ram]

I don’t know if it’s been redesigned or not but I haven’t had a single problem since and this was a few hundred hours ago. I use my loader daily for moving bales. To replace you have to remove the right side panels and everything will be exposed.

 

[DieselBound]

95ram, right side panels?

My dealer is ordering me up a new cable. I'm hoping that I can replace this myself with little grief. I have a neighbor who needs a hand with something this weekend and since it's unlikely I'll have the cable replaced by then I'm thinking I might see if I can operate the loader with some vice-grips on the cable end.

 

[DieselBound]

Dealer finally got my replacement cable in. Still wondering how to access the cable ends on the joystick valve. Is it necessary to remove the valve or can it be done in situ? If in situ, from the topside (inside cab) or through the wheel well?

The procedures in the service manual show doing this with the valve already removed. I'd hope to not have to remove the valve.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I have twice had a throttle cable end come off on my DK45SC. I have only bought one replacement cable, though. I managed to solder and crimp the old end back on and now have a spare. FWIW, the foot throttle cable and hand throttle cable are both the same in my tractor, fortunately.
There aren't a lot of this type of cable in these tractors, but when one fails, it can really be paralytic.

 

[DieselBound]

Posting an update...

There's a small plate that goes around the cable area on the cab floor. It's held in place with a couple of small bolts. Removal gives plenty of access, though the large nuts are still below the floor level, which makes it a bit difficult: fortunately these are low-torque items and they don't require much force to loosen or tighten. Small allen bolts that hold down the tower covers on the valve end; these are a pain unless you have a long allen wrench (I managed to lose mine somewhere along the line and had to resort to using a smaller one with needle-nosed pliers).

Service manager was balking at the cable being covered under warranty.: guy is totally horrible at customer service (nasty, big donkey!). The sales guy gave the cable to me: I told them to check out the warranty and that if it's not covered then I'll pay for it. I'm at about 20 months.

 

[Threepoint]

Posting an update...

There's a small plate that goes around the cable area on the cab floor. It's held in place with a couple of small bolts. Removal gives plenty of access, though the large nuts are still below the floor level, which makes it a bit difficult: fortunately these are low-torque items and they don't require much force to loosen or tighten. Small allen bolts that hold down the tower covers on the valve end; these are a pain unless you have a long allen wrench (I managed to lose mine somewhere along the line and had to resort to using a smaller one with needle-nosed pliers).

Service manager was balking at the cable being covered under warranty.: guy is totally horrible at customer service (nasty, big donkey!). The sales guy gave the cable to me: I told them to check out the warranty and that if it's not covered then I'll pay for it. I'm at about 20 months.

DieselBound, thanks for the update. So far no cable problem on my 2014 NX, but this thread is good to have.

Were you able to do the replacement without removing the FEL valve after all?

 

[DieselBound]

Were you able to do the replacement without removing the FEL valve after all?

Yes, thankfully. It's a bit futzy in that it's a bit hard to access the allen-head bolts that hold the cable end cover on/down, and access to the top cable lock nut doesn't provide a nice parallel angle with a wrench (but it's not real tight in which case the wrench end can access from above the floor at an angle- if that makes sense). There's a cutout in the wheelwell that gives a little access, but not to all the bits (poor angle for some).