Sway Bar Adjustment

[MSU_Keith]

The CK30 has solid sway bars with multiple adjustment points - more than could ever be used it seams. One of the adjustment points is 'slotted' and would allow movement of the sway bar in and out if set in that position. When would you want to use this position?

Also, beyond preventing the implement from hitting the tires and allowing enough sway for turning, what is the general difference in strategy for setting them up for: rear blade, rotary cutter, disk, plow, tiller, etc.

 

[mathey]

hey, maybe you can answer a question for me...when the "sway bar" is in it's SHORTEST position, what is the approximate distance from center to center of the end link rings? (center of the O, as shown)

O--[------]--O

Also, at what increments are the adjustment holes spaced?

if it can be made short enough, or looks like it could be modified to be short enough, I may invest in a set to put on my CK20.
Thanks!
-mark-

 

[MSU_Keith]

I'll measure it this evening - but you could always hack some off the ends of the inner and outer square tubes and make it as short as you want, yet still have several adjustment holes to play with.

 

[wallace]

I like to use the "sway" position when ever possible.
Keep in mind if you make something ridigit something has to give when you hit a hard object so I would rather some movement.
That goes for what ever you hang on it.
Just my opinion.

 

[mathey]

Not to hijack this thread...but in my case i'm using a 48" rotary between rows of Christmas trees and almost any "crabbing" at all runs the risk of damaging a tree trunk, or worse - running over a tree. It doesn't take much slope to get the thing off kilter...luckily my property is mostly flat.

My original "sway bars" were done away with years ago since they wouldn't even come close to limiting the sway on my mower. I now have a "Rube Goldberg" arrangement that works well, but is a pain to adjust for various other implements quickly.

Again, sorry to take this thread down another road, and I hope someone can answer the original question!

 

[KiotiJohn]

For most implements, you would want 1"-2" of sway. Rotary mowers, in general, should be tight, without sway. Most mower MFG, when they state anything about it, tend to recommend no sway. I think that is the case with most PTO operated equipment, but for non-PTO stuff, you put in the sway, so that there is room for give when doing things where you might hit something stabile.

I wouldn't think of using my boxblade or landscape rake without a little sway in the chains. The slotted secion of your stabilizers would be a good spot for non-PTO operated equipment.
John

 

[MSU_Keith]

Mathey - Did my best to measure the distance without getting to muddy. With the sway bar all the way against the tire on the CK30, the pin to pin distance is 14". This is almost to the shortest setting, but not quite as the tire was in the way. The hole spacing is 1.25".