Electrical System Help

[Cowboyjg]

I thought I would post it here first. I am at that time for my 50 HR service and it's likely that this problem will be a warranty issue but it will be a couple of months before I can send the machine off for attention.

I returned to "The Farm" to continue my work there. I stored the tractor while away ( about 2 months) in the barn. I disconnected the battery and put stabilizer in the gas (although I don't think this has any relevance). Upon my return I reconnected the battery and went through all the usual preparations. The machine worked fine for the first couple days. One day on the way back from the field the tractor started "dieseling" when I tried to shut it off. I had to kill the fuel supply to shut the engine down. I thought that was kind of odd! The next day I went to start the tractor and it would not. I jumped it and got it going. I worked it most of the day. I shut it down ith out a problem. the next morning it again would not start. I tested the alternator. It was putting out the 12v necessary. I changed batteries and that did not help. I'm going back over the thxgvg wkend and will try to address this. Does anyone have any thoughts. The tractor is a 2005 model, purchased new in June.

Tractor is a Dk45s

 

[albmn10]

Hello Cowboy, this may or not be of any help to you but make sure your terminals are not oxidized and that your ground is a good connection. Also you should be putting out around 14.5 volts when your tractor is running and not 12v. If your getting 12 volts while the tractor is running your alterator is not charging your battery.

 

[Cowboyjg]

Thx albmn10...oxidation is not an issue. Terminals and connectors are clean. Tractor is housed and under cover. Terminals are greased. I think a short developed and sucks the battery dry. Just not sure where.

 

[albmn10]

Hello Cowboy, your problem should be covered under warranty, but if you want to find your short, if you have a voltmeter, put in on dc in the highet scale dc amps, usually 10 amps. Then remove one of your battery leads and put the meter in series with the lead that your removed and the battery terminal, If you get a current reading that means you have a short. You can then put the terminal back on the battery and go to your fuse box on your tractor. Then with the meter still on dc amps, remove all fuses and put one lead on the line side and one on the load. If you check each fuse terminal one by one, you will be able to narrow the short down to individual circuits on your tractor. A currnet reading indicates a short when all systems are turned off on your tractor. If by any chance you have done any new electrical work, like work lights ect, thats usually a good place to look for a short.. Good luck.. Matt

 

[TBDonnelly]

I had a connector coming from the alternator that wasn't quite 'locked'.....as a result the battery was not being charged. A slight push, the connector 'clicked' and all was well.

Don

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I disconnected the battery and put stabilizer in the gas (although I don't think this has any relevance). )</font>
Maybe it's just me, but putting stabilizer in the "gas" might indicate that you have a problem since the tractor is diesel. Did you use a gas stabilizer? I know some are supposed to be good for both, but some aren't. The other ideas are a good place to start, but I couldn't pass this up.
John

 

[Cowboyjg]

John....The reason for the gas stabalizer is because the tractor will sit for some time before I get a chance to use it again. At this point I'm runnung between 2 - 3 months between uses. The stabalizer I use is for diesel gas. I mentioned it only because it was part of the sequence of things I did.

Thanks


Cowboy

 

[BigDogues]

This is very strange. I had almost the exact same thing happen to me on my CK25. Went to shut it off with the key and it would not shut down. Had to pull the fuel cut off to kill it. Then later it had a very hard time starting. All has been well lately though.
I thought that I just read in another thread about both the key and the fuel cut off both being connected to a fuel solenoid. Is it possible that these solenoids are sticking some how?

 

[Cowboyjg]

I had no fuel related issues. The morning after I experienced the problem of the machine not shutting down I had to jump start the tractor to get it running. It ran fine so long as I did not shut it off. I had plenty of power to all the electrical components while it ran. Now that I think about it some more, the idiot light for the battery was on most of the time. Even after running (using not sitting) the machine for a few hours it didn't help the battery situation. I checked to see that it was putting out enough juice and that's not a problem. All the connections from the charging unit seemed intact and secure. I thought it might have been a faulty battery so I changed that out to another I had in the 8n but that didn't matter either. My neighbor had the meter we used to check the output. I didn't have one nor the time to really get into it in depth at that point. I'm hoping while I'm up for ThxGvg I can take some time with it.

 

[wallace]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I had a connector coming from the alternator that wasn't quite 'locked'.....as a result the battery was not being charged. A slight push, the connector 'clicked' and all was well.

Don )</font>
I have had the same thing happen with 2 ck model tractors before.
Also check the ground where it connects to the frame of the tractor.