Too Much Power?

[Dmace]

My hooks are welded on, the dealer put them on before delivery (at no extra cost). It is one of the most useful things on the tractor. My tires are loaded which helps with dragging plus I have a rock that fits perfectly in the front bucket that I usually grab for extra weight.

Here are some pics of the hooks going on.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...ldinghooks.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...8-grinding.jpg

It's hard not to show off the "HEMI", it's so photogenic.

[yubacitykioti]

If you want to make your own backhoe stabilizer pads or feet, you can do so by using some 3 inch channel that is about 1/4 inch thick and cut it to about 7.5 inches long and just drill 2 holes that will line up with the current holes in your stabilizer pads. Make 4 of them so you can bolt up 2 on each stabilizer and you are set. Your dealer may have some frames that have the channel because the tractors come sitting on the channel. just ask him for 32 inches of channel and you will be set as long as you have a drill and a chop saw.

[George2615]

By tossing your CK20 around do you mean the weight of the hoe swinging? or does it just swing too fast. If too fast you could slow down the RPM to slow down the BH pump to get a smoother swing. You could also load some weight in the bucket since the CK20 doesn't have a lot of weight. For BH work like your doing you need to go easy. For heavy digging of stumps / large rocks etc. there is nothing like having the weight of a larger TLB. Maybe your asking too much of your machine.

[Dmace]

Originally Posted by George2615

By tossing your CK20 around do you mean the weight of the hoe swinging? or does it just swing too fast. If too fast you could slow down the RPM to slow down the BH pump to get a smoother swing. You could also load some weight in the bucket since the CK20 doesn't have a lot of weight. For BH work like your doing you need to go easy. For heavy digging of stumps / large rocks etc. there is nothing like having the weight of a larger TLB. Maybe your asking too much of your machine.

By "tossing around" I meant that the pulling force of the backhoe will actually pull the tractor towards the stump, rock, whatever...

By chaining it to the truck or a tree, the tractor stays put and you can really get the full use out of the backhoe. I have yet to hear any whining from the backhoe. I know I am not asking too much from it or overrunning it. It is just so powerful you need to anchor the tractor better. I can't complain about that.

[mauistardog]

Added gravel to the loader will help. but if your are trying to breaksomething that is beyond the backhoe, like a root, you make end up putting more stress on the backhoe than needed. stumps take time, i now get down off the machine and give the roots a good wack with an axe. just enough to get a brake so when I pull on it with the backhoe it will snap. I bounced the tractor around one day that the oil filter came loose.
good luck
aloha
joe

[dfkrug]

The CK20 is only 2K lb naked, as is my JD 955. The b/h on my
JD can easily drag the tractor around, even with my reversible
dirt outrigger feet. I have used my same backhoe on 3K lb
tractors and it works much better. More weight is needed and you
MUST have sharp outrigger feet. Jamming the loader bkt
edge into the ground helps, too.

[darkviper]

I have a CK20hst with a tooth bar and kb2365 i had the same issue. I built some pads to go on the outriggers out ardly ever i have the issue. when it get real tight i curl the bucket backwards and let the tooth bar help. Most of the time though i can stall the backhoe with just the outriggers out and the loader set so i can move the tractor in nutral with the backhoe. Makes for easier trenching. THe pades are made with 3" angleangle back peices in the angle for added strength. When the BH loads down dig in. I have removed stumps with both the bear outrigger pad and then with the angle iron and the agle iron stopped the movement. I recently dug out a 12 oak stump in about 10 minutes

[Greg - Kioti CK20 TLB]

I had a chance to get some more seat time over the weekend and use the backhoe. A load of gravel in the FEL definitely helps to stabilize the tractor while using the backhoe. Also, I had previously always shifted the tractor into neutral and set the parking brake. I found that by leaving the tractor in low gear (I have a HST) that this also helped the tractor from moving backwards when using the backhoe.

Safety note: I am careful to set the parking brake, lower the FEL and set the stabilizer feet to reduce the risk of unintended movements.

Also, I did find that a little more experience with feathering the controls helps keep the backhoe under control without losing any power. Personally, I didn't like the performance when I lowered the engine RPM from 2200 to 1800. I found that it made the cycle times too long when operating the backhoe.

My next step is to add outrigger feet. The suggestion of using c-channel is a good idea. I had previous thought of using angle but the c-channel should work much better. I haven't had a chance to look for a "free" source it yet but even if the dealer doesn't have any I can certainly buy it cheaper than buying the optional Kioti outrigger feet for $65 each.

Thanks to everyone for all the help. As usual, the advice was right on target.

[IslandTractor]

Originally Posted by Greg - Kioti CK20 TLB

I found that by leaving the tractor in low gear (I have a HST) that this also helped the tractor from moving backwards when using the backhoe.

Safety note: I am careful to set the parking brake, lower the FEL and set the stabilizer feet to reduce the risk of unintended movements.

Despite your precautions, I'm not sure 1) it is a good or safe idea to try to engage the HST in forward while you are using the BH and 2) I cannot figure out how you could do that without putting a rock on the HST pedal. If the pedal is properly balanced/adjusted, it should go into neutral when you take your foot off.

The two tricks I have learned with the BH to prevent pulling the tractor towards the stump/rock/hole are 1) dig the dumped FEL bucket with toothbar directly down in the soil as an anchor and 2) use more curl function to dig rather than trying to pull the bucket towards the tractor. Obviously you cannot avoid some pulling force on the tractor but you can use a slightly different digging technique to dig the bucket down rather than drag it back towards the tractor and that helps, especially with roots/stumps. Dig enough to get the bucket teeth under a root rather than just pulling on it. Once you are under a root you can use the very powerful curl function to rip it more easily than trying to pull it towards the tractor.

I also use the stabilizers as lateral stabilizers and don't take a lot of weight off the rear (loaded) wheels when I set them.

[Dmace]

Originally Posted by IslandTractor

Despite your precautions, I'm not sure 1) it is a good or safe idea to try to engage the HST in forward while you are using the BH and 2) I cannot figure out how you could do that without putting a rock on the HST pedal. If the pedal is properly balanced/adjusted, it should go into neutral when you take your foot off.

He is talking about having the High/Low Range selector in neutral as apposed to having it in Low. I have never tried the BH with the range selector in Neutral, but I can't imagine it helping at all. I always leave it in Low.